Calif Smog Issues I/M Monitors

motufan, I must confess: I think I enjoyed your, ah, story, way too much! - but only because it was so skillfully told.
Bravo! You have a way with words, sir.

Regarding what the emissions shop owner said about the manufacturers and software issues etc: that seems to be pretty much gospel truth, unfortunately. I've been told the same thing by widely disparate sources with the 'hands-on' experience to prove it.


Excellent advice regarding the "bottom line": the warning about not disconnecting the battery or otherwise 'clearing' the ECU/OBDll system is usually given 'after the fact' -when it's too late to do any good so it's worth repeating here. -heck, I think it oughta be printed on the DMV renewal notice along with the smog test notification- but that'd make too much sense
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x2 : engine temperature and drive patterns. Included in the instructions for completing drive cycles is some verbiage about temperatures (both atmospheric and engine) that could be easily overlooked or disregarded as being just irrelevant detail. Ever heard the expression "the devil is in the details"? Well, here's proof.

I salute you, sir, for your beautifully written post. A fine conclusion, informative in addition to being humorously well-told.

 

I would have gone absolutely bonkers if not for this thread and your kind attention and commiseration! I knew nothing about this subject two months ago and learned a LOT since then. Wow. For the future, my HC and low rev NOx are both still pretty high, so it sounds like I've got a catalytic convertor to replace in 2-4 years. But better "then" than now!

Keep on rockin' lvs2rock, thanks again for your input, encouraging words, and especially for listening.

 

This is a great topic... I had my issues with my 04 Nissan frontier and a knock sensor a couple of years ago. 1200 bucks later for new head gasket kit, timing belt kit and knock sensor. Finally got all the codes cleared and got it smogged.
They put that dam sensor on the bottom of the engine pan, I had it relocated on top in the recommended mod spot so no one needs to tear apart the engine again just to get to it.

 

I had no idea this whole subject existed until two months ago ………

Smart idea to have the sensor relocated, didn't think that was workable.

Wanna hear something funny? My Honda Prelude (2001) just had its Check Engine light come on this afternoon. It's deja vu all over again. Why are the Japanese out to get me right now?

 

Hey I know this is kinda older post but was hoping you could help me with some info, how critical were the time frames, did you have to go 45 mph for exactly 3 minutes( or what ever it calls for)? Any tips you can offer I have to do this Sunday

 

I'm guessing you were addressing your question to either one of us.......

sorry for the delay in answering, was offline for couple of weeks.
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FWIW: time frame is critical in this way: you must do at least 3 minutes- somewhat over 3 minutes is okay, you just have to be certain you follow the interval (idle) time periods as well. The instructions also give you leeway in terms of speed (for example, IIRC, 37-45mph for one of the drive cycles) I suggest trying to stay right in the middle of that range.
Follow the link, obey ALL of the instructions as closely as possible. I believe there is verbiage regarding what happens if the drive cycle is interrupted, etc. Keep in mind that if the instructions specify any additional conditions, such as engine temperature minimum or maximum, any deviation from that specified will make it impossible to complete that drive cycle..