11,000 miles Clutch Failure?

Head office said not factory defect, wear and tear. Dealer wants almost $4K CAD to install new Toyota junk.

CAMVAP you say?

 

Subbed for outcome. Something doesn't look right with that wear pattern, but I'm not an expert. Friction plate doesn't look evenly worn. I have done a few clutches (although it has been a while) and don't recall the pressure plate and flywheel looking like that. But I don't recall a lot of things.

 

I’d say it’s time to remove the clutch accumulator, install a heavier fly wheel and heavy duty clutch. Crisp engagement combined with a heavy rotating mass is going to help a lot while towing and during low speed maneuvers. Kinetic energy is your friend.

If you are mechanically inclined I say have them load the transmission in the bed and have the truck towed home. Do the work yourself and save some Canadian Kopecks. $.02

 

I ordered the URD Stage 3 clutch kit and heavy flywheel this morning, I hope it comes with release bearing and everything needed for install.
Do I still need to remove the accumulator or the URD bypass it somehow?

Would love to do the install but live in a condo so won't fly. Considering a tow to another shop though.

 

You have to bypass the accumulator. It is on the left side of the transmission above the slave cylinder.

If you wanted to make some $$ after this fiasco, you could fab up some accumulator bypass tubes. I'd certainly buy one.

 

So bypass or remove is same result? What's easier?

 

You pretty much have to remove it to bypass it. Let me find the vid from a 2nd Gen. Almost the same.

 

me too.

 

Here's what you're looking at:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/dat-clutch-tho.497974/#post-15464775



Note that we need more than the coupler that was used in the video. The tube arrangement on the 2nd Gens had some slop in them. Ours are routed a bit differently. So, having a pre-fabbed piece with a 90deg bend and a couple proper female ends would be about it.

 

I had a Toyota brake line fitting in my spare parts pile that fit perfectly to replace the accumulator. I don’t have a part numbers for it but it was off of an ‘85 Toyota truck. It serves as a junction block on the ‘85 for the line to the rear brakes. Picture provided is of the same part that I used but in its original intended location on the ‘85 truck not installed on my ‘16. I removed the tab that is welded to the fitting and rewelded it in another location on the fitting up support it similar to how the clutch accumulator was mounted.

Again this picture is an example of an identical part to what I used not if the actual part installed on my 2016. Cannot get a picture of actual part installed without removal of my skids. Prefer not to remove them just for a picture.

 

Hey, Redbeard.

Our 3rd Gens have one or two of those also. I was looking at those wondering if it would work for the accumulator removal. Thanks for posting.

I'll see if I could find what I saw.

So, there was enough slack in your clutch lines to install it? I was thinking without a welder, I could use a large zip tie or maybe safety wire.

 

You could probably get by without mounting it to anything honestly. I mounted mine specifically because of all the washboard roads I travel on. Vibration is hell on small tubing.

The fitting I used is roughly the same dimensions as the accumulator so no real modification was needed on the lines. Just bent them to line up perfectly and threaded in the fitting nuts.

 

Thanks!

Yeah. I was on some washboard this weekend. I'd definitely like it mounted.

Here is one that is on ours:
https://parts.toyota.com/p/Toyota_2...FOR-FRONT-BRAKE-TUBE/66840861/90412A0008.html

From here:
https://parts.toyota.com/a/Toyota_2...11_6716913/BRAKE-TUBE--CLAMP/674470-4708.html

 

Good find now order one and verify if the threads are the same and you should be golden. The flaring on Toyota brake and clutch parts is all the same depent on line size from my experience. You may be able to bend the bracket that is attached to it to mount it with out cutting and welding.

 

Ha! The threads were what stopped me from trying it earlier. After, I believe that I found what you just said. The threads and flares are the same for both the brakes and clutch. That would just make sense considering Toyota and all.

I measured the clutch line. It is standard 3/16in OD and the threads were M10 x 1.0.

Just to bring it full circle here is what I found measuring:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...rations-welcome.406844/page-378#post-17361459

And:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...rations-welcome.406844/page-378#post-17366209

Sorry for the thread jack @shiftz . This might help you though?

 

Unless the drivers manual in Vermont has changed, it is illegal to coast in neutral and/or with the clutch disengaged. Using the engine to slow down is not bad for the truck, unless you are slipping it on the way down.



I don't know about other states.

 

Sure, but that's not clutch-braking.

 

If someone stands on the clutch pedal all the time especially at stop lights, it’ll wear fast.

You know I have a habit of doing this with my other car but I stand on the clutch at the stop light without the car moving at all. Could this result in premature failure of the clutch

 

Make life simple and get rid of all clutches that ought to do it

 

Standing on the clutch at stoplights will wear the throwout bearing and potentially the diaphragm spring, not the clutch material or flywheel.