1st Gen Tacoma Buyers Guide

Looking at a 2000 reg cab 5 sp manual with 78k 2wd on eBay right now... it’s super clean and has a clean carfax. What’s a good price for that year and model

 

$1k or $30k or anywhere in between... Not enough info to offer anything better. Once you get more details I'd suggest KBB, NADA, Edmunds and/or similar.

 

TRD OR vs Non TRD

I'm considering two trucks.

Truck #1:

2003 Lunar Mist, AC,TRD OR,4WD, SR5, V6, 5SP, 121k, new timing belt and clutch done recently. Frame is in good shape got sprayed by Toyota during the recall. $9k

Truck #2:

2002 White, AC, SR5, V6, 5SP, 145k. Looking at it tonight. Not sure of the condition or history yet but looks very clean in photos. asking $7750

The problem with truck number one is the owner is still looking for his replacement vehicle and its been a hassle and a half. I'd like to believe he willing to sell it to me when he's ready but we've been doing this dance for over a month.

Cons with truck #2, no OR package, no power windows and 60/40 split bench seat (which I've heard negative things about), slightly higher miles. Pros cost, judging but the list price it seems negotiable.

Is the TRD OR worth it for the locker and resale value? Do the miles make a big difference? Should I wait it out for TRD or is the cost saving worth it? I do plan on doing off road stuff but will still be a daily.

TIA

 

Both of those sound like good buys to me, both of those prices would be low for the NW market where I live. Where are you located?

 

I'm located in the Mid-Atlantic, east coast.

 

I am adding this link here in hopes to get any advice or input on what I am about to get into (as long as there are no surprises) when i get down there. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/new-member.529322/#post-16921686

 

As a new owner of a one-owner 1998 Tacoma, dealer serviced since new, this suggestion was a goldmine. It listed everything done to the truck, parts with parts numbers used, work recommendations, and service notes.

Edit: Looks like it just goes to 10 years back.

 

Milage on the 4cylinder is reported as 29 mph!? I get 25 in the freeway if I am careful... Makes me wonder if I need to do some poking around under the hood

 

@tcBob please un-sticky. Too many stickies in the first gen section. People don't seem to use this and just make a new thread for specific vehicles they have questions about.

 

Seemed like this was an appropriate place to ask this question.

2003 Tacoma, 150k miles, engine, and transmission work. Drives fine. The frame is completely rotted out like it would (no recall was done) and I believe it's over now.

What would you all pay for a truck like this? The frame is very very bad. Obviously, it's not safe to drive on the road and wouldn't pass any safety inspections, so maybe as a parts car. Maybe even swap the frame....been looking into that, but the work involved even if i was to do it myself seems not economically worth it. What would something like this be priced for? Or maybe I should put, what would you all pay for this truck in said condition?

 

At first thought, if the frame is bad, no more than 50% book value.

 

I’m arguing with a guy in FB right now, so confirm my suspicions. Did any 4wd Tacoma’s from 01-04 come with the 2.4l? Key word in that sentence is 4wd. It’s a regular cab.

 

No 6 lug came with a 2.4 only 2.7
2.4 is a 5lug thing

Edit: but ive seen guys swap a 2.4 into a 4wd like @Tour991

 

@Sebz13

Is the rust, on the frame and body, from being driven in saltwater, or does the truck have a mainland history? I am just surprised the frame is covered in a "non-rust belt state". If saltwater, what other problems might you be looking at? Since I have never lived near the coast, I have no idea the long term impact if someone has been driving a truck in saltwater.

That new frame makes it seem like a good deal, especially if you are able to do the body work yourself.

 

Hey, I made it it's own thread because a few posts back someone had mentioned that this gets passed up and ignored. Its on another island so I would need to fly out there and see. But I imagine he hasn't driven it in salt water, but hawaii tends to be a salty island. I would inquire more when he wakes up (I am a night owl). The new frame is really selling it for me, seems worth the money to me even with the body repairs.

 

What is considered "high mileage" for these trucks?

 

I would say anything over 18k per year but they could go much longer if properly cared for.

 

What do people think of the 98 extra cab 2.7L SR5 4x4?? They’re not V6 so you don’t want to put much weight on it when adding aftermarket parts, but they are still 4x4. Just a random question and what would yall ask for?

 

Dear Eveybody,

Here are the fundamental differences between the 2.7 and the 3.4. As far as reliability goes, they will be both be extremely reliable and dependable motors if they are well maintained.

The 2.7 liter Toyota motor is an inline four cylinder engine that uses a timing chain. It is going to be an easier and less expensive engine to both maintain and repair than a 3.4. Because of its inline configuration, everything is right there in front of you. The only thing that is a bit of a chore to replace is the fuel filter. This motor is also going to get better fuel economy than its larger V6 sibling. Although, from what I have read, this is not a significant difference.

The 3.4 liter Toyota V6 engine is a very sophisticated double overhead cam V6 motor with aluminum heads and a cast iron block that uses a timing belt, which has to be changed every 90 thousand miles. This motor also takes up much more space in the engine bay than its smaller sibling. As a result of its size, sophistication and configuration, it is much more complicated and expensive to work on than its smaller sibling. For example, the air intake system has to come off in order to change out the spark plugs and spark plug wires. Please do not assume that the Toyota 3.4 V6 is an impossible motor to work on because it is more complicated and sophisticated than its smaller sibling. This is by no means the case. I am not a gifted mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, and I have completely surgically recreated and re-engineered hands, and I have done plenty to our family's old Tacoma, which is a 3.4. The Toyota 3.4 is going to be significantly more powerful than its smaller sibling. By today standards, the 3.4 is not going to be a speed demon, but it makes good power for its size.

The best thing to do when trying to chose between these two engines for your family's future Tacoma is completely figure out how you are going to use the future Tacoma. If you are looking for commuter vehicle to go to and from work, and just occasionally do truck stuff with it, then the 2.7 is probably the better choice especially if power is not a factor for you. If you are looking for a secondary or third vehicle that has to do a lot of truck stuff for your house, then the larger 3.4 liter engine is probably the better choice.

Good Luck,
Paul

 

Hello,

This is not my first post, just my first post under this new account. I was here back in 2009-2010 when I owned a different Gen 1 (2000). Can't remember the username and I apparently abandoned the associated e-mail...so here I am. With that said, I wanted to add this bit of information I have been learning over the last week after purchasing a "new" 2004 Gen 1.

I found and purchased a 2004 with 72K original miles on Jan 3rd, 2019, truck was garage kept and is pristine in every way with the exception of perforated rust holes in front of the rear shackles and the tail ends of the frame (where you would mount a class 3 hitch) are almost gone.

I had the frame of my first Gen 1 treated with the CPC compound when the warranty extension came out, so when I was "investigating" the frame of this truck at the dealer I knew to check that the coating had already been applied, which it had. Also, the VIN history showed it had been applied in 2010.

I only discovered the rust problem after the purchase, when the bumper was removed to install the class 3 hitch. My blood ran cold and I knew I was in for trouble. Literally sick to my stomach, I took the truck to the same dealer that did my 2000's frame treatment almost 10 years ago to see if this "new" truck was eligible for any kind of warranty and this is the verdict; AS IT APPLIES TO THE 2004 YEAR MODEL TACOMA:

The 2004 Tacos ARE still covered under the extended warranty program IF they are within the 15 year period which began at the date of first use (located in your VIN history). Turns out this truck was first used in June of 2004. I'm lucky to say the very least.

I did find the criteria here in the forum which outlines inspection techniques as well as qualifying factors for complete frame replacement. All of which this truck meets and or exceeds: Cold weather state recognized in the bulletin, prior CPC treatment performed by an authorized Toyota dealer, perforation holes greater than 10 mm in diameter. The truck will be officially inspected on Monday Jan 7th to determine if they will honor the replacement. My fingers are crossed.

This forum has always been the holy grail of Taco information. I'm glad it exists and look forward to learning and sharing more info soon.

~ Josh