Spark Plugs: Denso K16R-U11 replacement?

I'd like to get some

$5 Denso K16R-U11 Denso 3120 Spark Plug

Denso K16R-U11 plugs to replace the ones in my '03 Tacoma 2.7L, but the FLAPS don't seem to carry them.

What is a good replacement for them, and why? I see various more "modern" plugs (iridium, platinum, twin-tip, etc) from both Denso and NGK, but I have no data to decide what is best for my engine. School me.

 

I got mine on Amazon for like $12 shipped to my door. Check the reviews though, there are a ton of Denso knock offs out there. If you want to buy local, I'd get Autolite copper plugs. Bosch gave me a lot of trouble.

 

Thanks. Since I need these ASAP, I think I'll go with NGK V-Power BPR5EY-11 (from my AutoZone FLAPS). It is a similar plug, and comes up in various searches as an OEM replacement for my engine. AFAIK NGK are good plugs, I use them in my older Honda. I'm driving 700 miles in a few days, and just need something, as my Densos are worn past EOL.
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Oops, I meant BKR5EY-11.
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I believe thats the other plug listed in the manual.

 

I meant BKR5EYA-11

Got them installed, had to move the resonator and intake hoses out of the way, so what should take twenty minutes took over an hour. Now an occasional idle stumble is gone - should have replaced those plugs long ago, the gaps were 2x what they should have been.
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Be it copper, platinum or iridium plugs, they are all the same, but the difference is in how long they last.
Don't go believe stuff like any particular type will give you more HP, that's bullshit. Though, fresh sparkplugs will improve your MPG if you have old worn out plugs

Copper is the cheapest but they also have the shortest lifespan. They must be replaced at about 30k miles intervals
Platinum have a longer lifespan, needing to be replaced at about 100k miles
Iridium are the most expensive of the bunch, but they can last for 120k+ miles

I did put iridium plugs in my truck and it's running great.
Also, before putting plugs in, check if the gap is good. They are supposed to come pre-gapped, but I prefer to check, just in case. The gap must be 0.044"

 

>> Don't go believe stuff like any particular type will give you more HP, that's bullshit.

Uh huh. And how does K&N stay in business? Snake oil, no additional power on modern engines, and in a dusty climate will mess up your engine. Plus they are a fire hazard on certain engine/carb combos, for example my Porsche 356 w/ Weber IDFs:

 

[/QUOTE]
I would say you have a back firing situation going on there,
probably not a good mix.

 

>>I would say you have a back firing situation going on there, probably not a good mix.

You nailed it. Short, direct runners, always vapor stand-off present. I ran out of fuel at speed, switched the petcock to reserve, it coughed a couple of times (mildly, barely audible) then picked up fuel again. Started running rough and trailing smoke like a wounded Zero. I had no extinguisher in the car, and didn't want to pull over on I-80, so I nursed it home on two cylinders. Ran in the house and grabbed an extinguisher. Miraculously, the only damage to the car itself was black soot under the deck lid, it didn't even bubble the paint! The engine sucked all the flames and heat down the intakes. I had to pull the head and reseat the valves is all. The Webers came off, replaced by OEM Zeniths with OEM cannister filters and disposable paper elements. I'm still driving it.
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Here's how the old Denso plugs looked:


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