Over heating

It would have been coincidental rather than being caused by the mud but that doesn't make it any less possible. Just something to check while looking for causes.

 

Thank you for all the help! I burped it as well as I could yesterday, but I'm going to pick up a radiator funnel and try again. Also will mess with the bleeder, and check the themostat for moisture and mud, then hopefully all will be well. If none of that works, I'll be attempting to get something covered under warranty, because with a truck with 45k on it, if none of these suggestions are the issue, it should be covered

 

It's 100% a bleeding problem. Don't fuck around with connectors and inspecting thermostat. Find a way to bleed it properly and all will be well. You pulled radiator and never bled it. There's air in the system.

 

I was unable to find the "bleeder plug" that is shown in the diagram. Every video or article I can find says to just fill the radiator and then run the truck with the heater on, topping off the fluid as needed. I've done this a couple times and as I do it right now, thete are no bubbles entering the funnel, which leads me to believe that my previous attempts to burp the system were successful and there is no longer air in the system

 

TRD off road whatever you do just don’t take it offroad

 

I'm interested to see how they blame this on my modifications, not if, but how

 

Park the truck on some service ramps and let it run this should burp the system, I've had better luck doing this than the "no spill" funnels.

Also the bleed nipple on thermostat, you'll need a 1/4 ratchet with a 10mm socket to crack it open but honestly the ramp method has worked wonders over cracking the nip

 

I just jacked up the front end and used a no spill funnel and for 45 minutes nothing happened other than a few TINY bubbles. The engine sat around 200 degrees with the heat on, so I turned on the ac to see what would happen. Next thing I know, it's at 218 and boiling (seems extremely low temp for pink 50/50 to be boiling). In this picture, is the 10mm bolt shown the one you are talking about?

 

I have not seen the thermostat out of a 3rd Gen to know if it has a Jiggle Valve or Bleed Hole, if it does not you can try drilling a small hole to allow any air to escape.

 

No need to drill but clearly there are some voids in the system. Here is a screenshot of the fill procedure.

 

Is that you Smitty??

You honestly seem like a miserable person, showing up in every thread never missing an opportunity to bitch/moan and try to victimize.

I feel sorry for whatever happened to you, must've been bad.

 

OP I'm curious as I'm an avid mudder myself and never had overheating problems, did you pressure wash the same day immediately after getting home??

I always pressure wash right away before the mud really dries out and never had a problem, but wondering if its a matter of time, there was another guy who had problems and had waited 24hrs before washing everything out which I think dried the mud out enough that it didn't come out so easy.

Either way sounds like your problem now is getting the air out, burping is really easy just park it on an incline (that helps a lot in my experience) and run it with the cap off.

 

The first time I overheated was on the way back from that trail. Due to this i didn't get home until very late and first washed it the next day

 

With the rad cap off and the truck running is the level dropping at all? Give the upper and lower hose some squeezes to get it to drop then add some more.

Nope not that that is the retaining screw. On the 3.5 it is on the back of the engine by the plastic cross over pipe

 

The bleeder looks like a brake line fitting kind of. The reason it was boiling was because the cap wasn't on. The cap helps increase the pressure of the system which raises the boiling point.

 

With the engine off turn the fan by hand and see how much resistance there is to turning. Then start the truck and let it get hot with the hood down. now turn off the truck and raise the hood and check if the fan is stiffer to turn. if it isnt stiffer the fan clutch isnt locking up. maybe the fan clutch is too dirty to conduct heat properly. Did you clean it while the radiator was out.?

 

Thank you. I took a look at it when the radiator was off and it didn't look dirty, but I had to drive my truck just now, and it did not become more difficult to turn after the engine reached operating temperature. The truck spent at least a total of 3 hours with the front end up in the air, a no spill funnel on the radiator and the engine running today. I'm pretty confident any air that was in the system is now gone, but I am still running hot on significant hills

 

The only thing that's changed was you pulled the radiator. Fan clutches don't go bad very often and while they're still relatively new, same with the thermostat. I 10000000000% guarantee there's still air in the block / heads or just behind the thermostat in the housing. Do u have a scan tool that can monitor coolant temp?

 

Keep in mind that it was overheating before I pulled the radiator, not just after. Yes I have a Scan gauge to monitor the exact temperature

 

Also, does anyone know the typical temperature that the thermostat will open at? Today mine did not open until it had idled up to about 195 degrees, which took over 30 minutes