The H10 to 9011 HIR Foglight upgrade (brighter than LED)

Yes 9005s will be a significant improvement.

H10 = 900 lumens (stock)
9005 = 1700 lumens
9011 = 2500 lumens

 

So to recap -

Poor man's (who just dumped nearly $200 CDN on harness, bulbs and shipping) upgrade is a set of 9005s on stock wiring.

More capable, more well resourced, gets a harness and 9005's... Or better yet squeezes that little bit more for:

Ultimate - 9011's, paint, a little shaving, and the harness Will give you two small stars to light a stormy night?


Assumption: 9005s can go into stock harness unmodified.

 

I tried the 9005's and it is a pretty decent improvement for the cheap price. I've run them on the roads the past week and have gotten no flashbacks. I had the wife drive by and it was not blinding.

 

Both the 9005 and 9011 are 65w. Neither ‘require’ a harness, but both will perform better with one. The 9011 are greater output due to HIR technology.

Painting is to make it like a stock bulb for both bulbs. Correct on the trimming.

 

I got that. I was just going with the assumption that if you were going to bother with the 9011s, you would likely also go the harness route... I also figured the 9011s likely require the painting to reduce the glare a little bit more than the 9005s would.. but better that it's fleshed out for clarity.

Are capped 9005s available? Or is it only a highbeam bulb in normal use? Seems logical that the yellow ones might be capped if made to be a fog vs a highbeam...

 

Well so far I am looking at these at 65w... Mainly cost, color, and light output all mesh for a quick plug in upgrade. But are HB3 close enough to 9005 to just plug in unmodified on an 06 Tacoma?


The only HIRs I've found so far are really pricey!

 

Crash what's the consensus on which 9011 to order and from where? What is the brand now that a few are discontinued.

Are the 9005 Nokya hypers 1700 lumens also?

 

Hi Crash - went way down the rabbit hole this morning reading through all your research on the headlights and foglight upgrades. I am impressed to say the least. After nearly 12 years and 185,000kms, my first light burned out, the fog. Looking to probably replace all 4 forward lights in one exercise before winter really sets in (3 snowfalls already!). I am the rarest of Tacoma weirdos running a lower-than-stock X-runner through the Canadian winters.

My plan of action is to fix the fog with off-the-shelf 9005 bulbs - as they're only about 12" off the ground I'm less concerned about blinding glare, and initially wouldn't change the harness so they'd be running at less than optimal light output. Since then the fogs would be out-performing the headlights I was planning to go with off-the-shelf Philips at your recommendation. Should I be in need of more sauce, the harness upgrade can come later.

Wondered about your thoughts on the following:
I believe your headlight-specific threads are for the facelifted 2nd-gens but from what I can understand, both pre and post facelift take the same 9003 bulbs. From that I've inferred, 9003 and H4 are the same thing but you probably know why they have different names. Philips's website doesn't have results for their +130 or +150 options, even searching their own part numbers. Not sure if they're discontinued or what but still available on Amazon and elsewhere. Crappy Philips website or just caught that period between a manufacturer discontinuing things and vendors selling off stock?

Again, appreciate all the work you've put in to this.

 

Just upgraded my Nokya Hyper Yellows to 9005


Took less than 30 seconds to modify each bulb.

 

Wow, sorry guys, I completely dropped the ball on following up with this thread! Normally I am way better about responding.

9005 is a high beam bulb, so they are generally not capped, though it looks like @replica9000 found some yellow ones that are above.

HB3 and 9005 are the same. From what I understand HB ratings are from regulators whereas the 9000 series designation is from manufactures. Tomato Tomahto. But yes, HIRs are not cheap! But their performance is outstanding.

I would favor sticking with a German brand, made in Germany. While Volsa may no longer be available, Philips, Osram and Sylvania are all high quality brands made in Germany. If you buy Sylvania, you actually get an Osram bulb.

The Nokya's would be a good option if looking for a yellow bulb, however any coated bulb such as the hypers are going to have a lower lumen output than their non-coated counterparts.

Welcome to TW! Apologies for the terribly delayed response.

Yes, all 2nd gens take the same 9003/H4 designation bulb, and work with the same upgrade. As do the first gen trucks, though the earlier ones require an sealed beam to H4 conversion.

The difference between a 9003 (US designation) and H4 (European designation) basically comes down to manufacturing tolerances, where the 9003 has stricter tolerance limits than the H4. However if buying from a reputable high quality manufacture this is somewhat of a non-issue. Here is a document that explains it in more detail:
http://candlepowerinc.com/pdfs/H4_9003.pdf

Not sure why the North American site does not list the +130 or the +150 bulbs, but the European site does. This could come down to a 9003 vs H4 issue.
https://www.philips.co.uk/c-p/22109428/x-tremevision-car-headlight-bulb
https://www.philips.co.uk/c-p/12342RVS2/racingvision-car-headlight-bulb

Note if you look in the headlight thread, the GE +120 bulbs have a better high beam performance than the Philips +130, since the high beam is coated on the Philips +130.

Nice! I think we need some output pics!

 

All good. I put in Philips +130% in the headlights and +100% in the fogs, one light at a time to observe the difference standing in front of the truck. It's noticeably brighter, and whiter in color but also in 12yr old housings that have seen better days. Anecdotal evidence so far is that slow people are getting out of the left lane much more quickly (ie. notice I'm coming). However I've also had 2 people merge in to me (ie. I have to defensively change lanes) in the past 12hrs so the verdict is still out. Maybe I need a horn upgrade.

I'm new to this forum and a friend recommended it. The Xrunner-specific forum is full of dude-bros and kindof the worst. Tend to be a lurker on forums anyway. Keep up the good work.

 

Nice and yellow.

If you are looking to replace your headlight housings, I'd strongly recommend OEM. They will have better optics for better projection and pattern and don't leak of fill with condensation among other issues with aftermarket headlights. For an updated look I personally like the OEM smoked chrome 'Pro' housings.

There are some links in here showing the smoked chrome OEM housings compared to the bright chrome, with part numbers and where to order for the updated TSB design that solves the melting DRL issue on the 2005-2011 trucks.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-ultimate-headlight-upgrade-h4-not-led-or-hid.398066/

 

As the housings get cloudy, they restrict light output. Might not notice it as it happens slowly, but going from cloudy to new is definitely noticeable from inside the vehicle. I was going to try to polish my lenses, but they seem to have micro cracks in them now.

 

Does anyone have a line on where to buy a wiring harness for the ultimate fog light upgrade? I have the 9011 HIR’S on order already.

Thanks,
Patrick

 

Hmm, the link in the OP broke, I’ll have to fix that.

Here is the link:
https://www.rallylights.com/hl282-s...ness-for-conventionally-switched-systems.html

It is the HL28285 - Upgrade Harness for 9005 High Beams Only.

 

Trust me, even though you have cracks, polishing will make a difference. Not as much as new headlights, but a noticeable difference none the less.

 

Thanks crashnburn. I did try searching the rallylights sight from your old link but had no luck.

 

So, I completed this mod today. Painted caps on Phillips 9011 HIR lamps, Rallylights wiring harness... During the test/check the driver side lamp blew up after a minute of burn time. Passenger side held up for another two minutes when I shut it down after an infrared thermal scan of 182* F. I realize with the wiring harness I am sending 30% more voltage to the lamp but the grenade effect was unexpected, volts go up amps go down so what happened? Ordering more lamps now to trouble shoot, 25* outdoor temps doesn’t make this work more fun.

 

You can pick up 9011s at your local Autoparts store, they will likely be in a Sylvania box but on the back of the bulb it will be Osram.

Did you touch the bulbs or clean them with isypropyl alcohol before installing? 182 is a perfectly reasonable temp.

I’m currently looking at a better coating material for the cap that does not contain VOCs and is designed for halogen bulb use. It is a bit pricy though.