4-cyl Acceleration

I don't know if that test compared the stock air intake tubing vs straight tubing or just the actual filters. I went with the AFD intake setup. The straight tubing does appear to be less restrictive or provide better airflow compared to the stock setup. I'm getting .5 better mpg and that's with more boat towing since I put the intake on. It feels like it has better acceleration but that is a butt-o-meter reading vs actual test numbers. It's a little louder than stock but not obnoxious imo. If you can spend less than $150 for a straight tube intake setup, I think it's worth it. And if you couple that with the LCE header you will probably see more of an increase.

 

I've got a Volant CAI on my 2tr. If I were to do it again, I would put the money toward an LCE long tube equal length header.
I like the sound it makes, but I personally don't think it's added power. There's a lot of science behind OEM intakes and I remember reading on here someone saying that the big plenum of the intake that sits on top of the engine is specifically designed for airflow for the engine. Whether or not that's true, I have no idea.
I am seriously considering removing the Volant intake and possibly selling it. I would like to get the LCE header either way though.



@JL8Jeff , the improved gas milage may be because the intake is getting warmer air from the engine bay now.

 

I have a 2006 4cyl and I redline it a lot getting up to speed 75- 85 mph on the highway. I have 193,000 and no problems.
I have run these motors in the Hilux in Africa and the Middle East for years. The Fillipino mechanics we had (best mechs I have ever met) told us to redline them as much as we wanted, they even upped the rev limiter to 6600 rpms. They said for this motor it wont hurt them, change the oil, air filter and water wetter.
Just my experience, I am far from being a mechanic, I usually just break stuff.

 

keep the intake and save your money both the intake and header will help the truck out and make it sound good, i have the Doug thorly header and AFE intake with magnaflow exhaust turn down pipe with regear/auburn positraction /add the pedal commander works really well .... you only really feel the header when going up hill

 

I have the Doug thorly header and AFE intake (dry pro) with magnaflow exhaust turn down pipe with re-gear (4.0 gears)/auburn positraction /add the pedal commander works really well ....
i did notices that the pedal commander really helped out a lot the truck doesn't shift as much and lets the truck stay in gear plus really helps out when going over whoops in the dirt

 

Just picked up new spark plugs, and checked the gap, everything looks good. Psyching up to start pulling things apart. First time doing this.
Not sure I’ll see any difference until the muffler repair though. Curious about the condition of the current plugs, will post a pic when I get em out.

Edit: all done

 

ok

 

It will do nothing. The 2.7 is a dog and always will be. Just rev it to 4000 rpm once you get into 3rd. Mine actually gets up to speed "OK" when revved. Long uphills require 4th or 3rd at 3500+ rpm. It won't hurt it.

 

I just got a very good deal on a set of 3rd gen sr5 wheels with stock tires (P245/75 r16 Firestone Destination LE 2's.)
I haven't had a chance to weigh them, but the difference in feel is HUGE, coming from BFG A/T KO's LT245/75 r16's on steel rims.
Truck is quieter and smoother. I feel acceleration has improved and it lugs way less at the same RPM when accelerating. I figure that the new rim and tire combo saves about 17-18 lb's per wheel.
Truck just feels "normal"
I'll keep my other set for off road adventures and snow.

Oh yeah, I think they look quite nice as well!

 

they look good on silver, I was in the market for some 2nd gen alloy 16" TRD rims but they are at an ever increasing nonexistent supply on the East coast. I might look into these 3rd gen rims I particularly like this style you have on a 2nd gen truck, are the TPMS sensors working with these rims?

 

Strangely enough, the guy I bought them from said he didn't know if they had TPMS sensors, but didn't think so ( he was pretty young).
I drove the truck this morning for 10 miles and the TPMS light didn't come on, so I guess they do have sensors, and I guess they do work.
I'll update if they don't.
If they don't, I'll probably just put a piece of electricians tape over the light. I'm pretty aware of how the truck is responding.
I was all set to have to buy new lug nuts as well, but the seller said that Toyota OEM lug nuts and wheel locks were included in the price, he just neglected to mention it in the ad.
For $200 bucks all in, I think I got a good deal. 2 of the tires are in excellent shape, 2 others will need to be replaced in the next year. The wheels are in very good shape, a few *minor* scuffs.

 

$200 for all that stuff is the best u can hope for, ive seen those for like $800-$900 on CRAIGSLIST, I think if u lower the tire pressure to like 25 lbs. or lower this should set off the TPMS light that's how mine worked. some where I also heard that u can do some kind of reprogram on the computer system and switch to different TPMS sensors on different rims somehow, not sure if that's completely true or not. also if u look at the valve stem and it looks aluminum/metal that tells u that the TPMS are equipped, if they didn't they would look like the old black rubber stems.

 

Well, the wife noted that the TPMS light came on on the way home, so no sensors in the wheels I think. They were either transferred or need to be calibrated. Not a big deal, I really don't see the the function of this "feature" as I do a daily walk around before driving, so electrical tape over the warning light it is!

 

Either you care and pay attention or you don't and wouldn't notice anyway. My Mom's light was on and all 4 tires were 8-10 lbs low. She said she never checks them, just assumes it's taken care of at service intervals.

 

Yup. If you're not a gearhead, cars are just another appliance, I suppose.
I remember coming back from California and hearing an SUV approach on a quiet stretch of highway. I heard it passing on the left and mentioned how flat the right front tire was to my wife, and how could the driver not hear it, or at least notice his car veering to the right. 4 miles later the guy is on the shoulder with his tire on fire. Probably pre-TPMS. It's amazing how much heat is generated when your tire is low on pressure. The nerd in me appreciates the physics behind it.

 

I would like to figure out if theres an easy way to get the TPMS bulb out without tearing the dash apart, that way if u want to ever revert wheels or sell the truck u can put it back in.

 

I think the sensor module is located up near the 3rd eye brake light so it's not readily accessible either but it might be possible to access the wires coming from it and alter the signal.

 

yeah seen a couple of threads about terminating the TPMS light thru cutting and grounding wires but I wouldn't feel comfortable doing that, ive heard there might be a way thru reprogramming the computer somehow to switch between alloy and steelie Toyota rims, I asked a tire tech about this at (I know) BJs wholesale tire and he said he had done this type of reprogram and showed me the tool(looks like an OBD tool) which I assume they -plug either the OBD port or maybe the computer itself to do this, its matter of changing the codes/numbers that are assigned by Toyota on the rims u are equipped with to another.

 

I saw these two videos. I usually don't like watching videos and prefer to read, but these are explained very well.
https://youtu.be/iNspNdVkslA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZBqb0ZJSwU