Hondo Garage's New Thing

i took some night shots for you. Obviously better in person than through my camera. I take back what i said before... i think the image quality is pretty good, but it has been several months now since i was using the original camera.

 

Thanks for taking those. Looks like an improvement over the stock camera, definitely worth considering.

 

Any ideas on how/where to route the coax cable? I'd like to keep the clean appearance of my GFC, but have my factory camera mounted low since the swingout blocks the stock location. Having it up high is preferred but the stock wiring length is too short, so this totally caught my eye!

 

Another awesome weekend out with the GFC.

IMG_1646 by Brett Bjorgum, on Flickr

IMG_1654 by Brett Bjorgum, on Flickr

IMG_1673-Pano by Brett Bjorgum, on Flickr

IMG_1713 by Brett Bjorgum, on Flickr

 

those pictures are fantastic!

 

Great idea - Does anyone know how large the cable routing hole is behind the third brake light on the GFC? Unfortunately I'm out of the country or I'd pop it off and investigate myself (I'm not that lazy!)

 

Anyone else on here have their GFC in "ready to ship status?"

Trying to gauge how many are on the West Coast and if a White Glover is imminent, or if I am going to have to make a quick run and pick it up myself.

 

Talked to Elise yesterday. There are two west coast trips planned - beginning of Oct and end of Oct.

 

Great stuff! Thank you.

 

Best way to contact? Haven't had any contact in 2 weeks and started production late August (probably done by eow). Pretty much been shoved aside at this point.

 

I called. Push the button for ‘customer service’.

They’re busy.

 

Hey guys, well my GFC is mounted and my awning and brackets just arrived. I’m wondering if anyone has advice for mounting the awning brackets to the GFC? I picked up an ARB 2500 awning and 3 GFC brackets to mount on the drivers side of my vehicle.

My question is has anyone used a particular method to mount brackets or anything else to the GFC T-nuts that use the extrusion? Only reason I ask is these are very fine threads (10-32) and you’re threading stainless into aluminum.

I would normally just snug them up but as I said the threads are so fine (and Aluminum) i don’t want them to strip or worse have them fail when my awning in on.

Googling led me to believe 18-20 IN/LBS per bolt is max for steel into Aluminum with 10-32 threads. I was thinking try that with some blue locktite and it should be ok. Anyone go this far? Or did you just snug them and call it ok?

Also the ARB awning only came with 6 bolts. I picked up a dozen M6x20mm stainless bolts/ locknuts and they fit into the ARB extrusion perfect so I’ll use 4 bolts per bracket on that as well.

Thanks.

 

I just snugged mine down pretty decent with the two mounts roughly spaced at 1/3rds on the awning. The awning is attached with three bolts at each bracket instead of four because I didn’t have enough and I’d already started working when I realized it. I’ve taken it on some very rough roads and trails and nothing has shaken loose yet.

 

Yeah ARB includes 6 bolts apparently... so with two brackets you’d have 3 a piece and with 3 brackets only 2.... I’m not sure where they came up with only giving 6, you’d think as a minimum you’d need two brackets no matter what so they could send 8 lol.... oh well. Like i said M6 bolts fit right in (Regular hex head) so I’ll just use those instead. Just seems crazy. Oh well I guess to ARB a penny saved is a penny earned... thank you guys!

 

About to head out again, this time we're heading to Escalante and Capitol Reef. Should be a blast as both are new places for us. Got some good tips on locals over on GFC Photos, Videos, & Trip Reports . Thanks everyone!

We are OCD organized, try to keep it simple, and take only what we use. Yet, we try to be as prepared as our previous experiences have taught us to be. Daily driving, the rig is empty and ready to be a truck. Whenever the opportunity arises, we GOFAST to the hills.

Here's a typical load-up:

-Floor Plate System (I make these for WAY less than GG, if anybody's interested)
-TrailFX Tool Box
-ARB 50Q (Sub for Yeti45 w/ice blocks if traveling less than 3 days)
-2.5G H20
-2.5G Gasoline
-Bedding
-Stove
-Kitchen Kit (in a black sterilite box, want to upgrade... Any recommendations? Pelican/Zarges/Alu-box?)
-Mr. Buddy Heater ("Home" is 9,000' above the sea, LONG winters up here).
-Lynx Levelers
-Compressor/Flat Kit
-BROG Recovery Bag
-BROG Tool Bag
-LP Cylinder (5lb)
-Table/Chairs
-Fold-A-Step
-Demerbox
-Strap/Rope/Stakes
-Fire Extinguisher

Rear seats removed, another custom platform. Two small duffles of clothes, a BROG map bag, and a day pack/snack bag is all that rides in the cab. Flipped a truck once, nothing that would't feel ok hitting you in the head is ever allowed in the cab. Laptops/Nalgenes can really hurt...

 

Decided to dig into this a little farther for anyone who might want to know the correct answer. Yes it does matter how much torque you apply to any bolt but especially when threading Stainless (very hard), into Aluminum (very soft) with fine threads (32 Threads per Inch). I do appreciate the responses of using a very light hand and a 1/4" wrench thank you. Here is an engineering chart showing approximate In/Lb. torque specs of various bolts into various materials.

As you can see threading into Aluminum is less 2/3 the torque value of threading into another harder metal. I have an Inch/Lb. Torque wrench so doing it correctly isn't any more difficult that using a normal screw driver for me. If you don't have an In/Lb. wrench 19 in/lbs. is pretty damn light so be careful. I plan on using blue removable Loctite to farther secure these and hopefully preventing them from shaking loose.

Hopefully someone else will find this information to be useful and it will save them a headache or stripped T-Nut. Do it once, do it right.

If it wasn’t clear enough repeating it these are INCH/POUNDS... not ft/lbs much different

 

You're set up looks awesome! Have a great trip! I'll be headed north myself later on this week. It's a beautiful time of year up here, cool nights, beautiful colors I can't wait.

Your floor plate looks awesome. Is that a BROG bag hanging on your fridge? I've been looking for something to keep my "kitchen" a little more accessible. Seems like a good option.

 

I've been thinking about removing the rear seatback trim altogether and building something like this...have any pics of the build process or how you mounted that back panel?

 

As you found, that torque range looks great for that material.

I've posted these before:

$50 NEIKO 20741A 1/2” Digital Torque Adapter, 29.5-147.5 Ft-Lb, 1/2” Drive Digital Torque Wrench Converter/Torque Wrench Adapter, Alert Signals Torque Setting, Calibrate Digital & Analog Torque Wrench

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-20741A-Digital-Adapter-Foot-Pound/dp/B009GLISI0

It one of my favorite tools just because it is compact, turns any ratchet in to a torque wrench, does most any unit of measurement, and typically my 1/2in drive version will indicate down to 5N-m (44in-lb). Not great for 10-32 threads, but I've used it all day long on tapped aluminum threads never letting me down. I do have in-lb (which is pretty much retired) and ft-lb (I only use it for lug nuts these days) torque wrenches. This adapter helps keep those in calibration.

 

Sorry no pics of the process as of now, maybe I'll take it apart later for better visuals. Back top "panel" is simple. 49"x7" outdoor carpet wrapped piece up top. Mounted with OEM headrest bolts. "Panel" below that is actually just some carpet hanging from behind the top piece. Bottom "deck" is bolted down with seatbelt bolts. Did this mod within a week of buying the truck. So much more useful for us than the jump seats Toyota includes.