Hub assembly additional parts

Hello,

Just ordered @BamaToy1997 front hub assembly (2) for a 2012 4x4.

Two questions:

What seals should I replace while I am swapping hub assemblies? Front axle hub oil seal (behind the knuckle) and an o ring? What else am I missing?

And

For the four 17mm bolts used to secure the hub assembly what is the best way to get the proper torque given the lack of room. I have a large enough torque wrench.

Thank you in advance,

Kory

 

To go any deeper is a bit of work. (that's what she said!)
If you want to do some "while I'm in there" work, then the skies the limit. Axle seal, ECGS bushing, new drive axle, drive axle boots, etc.

 

Did you use a regular socket on the four bolts or a crows foot 17mm?

 

Regular.

 

I just did mine with the @BamaToy1997 hubs a few weeks ago...I believe the torque on the 4 is 51 ftlb or something close to that. I only had my 17mm Box Wrench...So what I did was set a lug nut to 51ftlb and "Feel" what that feels like and the tightened the 4 on the hub to the knuckle...It basically ended up "as tight as you can" and then a 1/4 turn with umph...Since 51 is not a lot of torque...I wouldn't worry too much. Just use some blue loc tite.

I have no Idea how you would get a regular socket on those 4 bolts..there wasn't even enough room for a ratcheting box end...The crows foot is the only way you could torque it with hub pre-pressed...

Make sure you don't foul up the speed sensor when you have the hub off. It's the little rectangle sticking through the side about the size of a 2 dot lego. It will be covered in grease...Leave it alone, don't clean it or touch it.

I see you are in Colorado so you might be experiencing road salt? Good luck with the rust! My truck has 145K on New England salted winter roads and the rust was holding so tightly between the axle to the hub assembly. I had all 4 bolts off and free and the thing wouldn't budge. The trick ended up being putting the axle nut back on, threading it all the way on except for the last thread so it stuck out from the end of the axle head and walloping with a sledge hammer about 5x...eventually the who thing pops loose...Now my issue was I fouled up the threads on the axle nut and had to buy a new one so if you have to do this be sure you hit it nice and square...
Also a 3/4 inch cold chisel makes a world of difference. The first side I tried to loosen with hammer and screwdrivers and then a splitting wedge I use for logs...I bout the cold chisel for the 2nd side...

The dust cover is a pain in the ass to get back on...it kept slipping and popping off...So I cleaned up the edge of it and the inner edge of the hub and then put the thinnest film of super lube on it and tapped it into place and then ran around the edge with the cold chisel...what a difference that made.

2x check the dust shields are on correctly before you screw on the hubs...almost put one on wrong because I was just cruise controlling through the second one...

Anyway, that rumbling from my right front hub is gone

 

This is great information gents. @TreeFortRichard did you replace your O rings or any seals?

 

The hub ships with that black rubber o-ring. I put a run of super lube on it

$9 Super Lube-21030 Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease, 3 Oz.

https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI?th=1
when I popped it in...My seals on the back side seemed OK...None were broken and despite all the rust there was nothing in my hubs but grease. I call myself lucky in that respect. The seal popped off the back side of the bearing/knuckle on one of them from whacking it with the sledghammer to get the axle free of the hub. I was able to tap it back on/into place first pulling it on by hand and then working around it gently with a light hammer and wide screwdriver. I then spun the wheel and turned it left and right and made sure it stayed and looked even. If it's not on right it will look wobbly when you spin the hub. Basically if you look at them before you start and you can do the job without breaking them and they are fine you don't need to replace them...But if they look fragile/sketchy or you foul them up getting the hub off the knuckle you'll want to replace them while you can because the axle just pops right out the back side and you could slip it right on...I was worried about going down that rabbits hole of repair and finding myself replacing the CV boot seal and then the metal rings that seal it and then the CV boot...and then the seal on the other side of the boot...and then somehow the shaft... That's what I was imagining happening...

So for me it was clean up knuckle, sand off a TINY bit of rust where the new o-ring (black rubber bracelet looking o-ring) sits, then I wiped all that down with a clean rag and a dab of brake cleaner on the rag. Next I put super lube on my finger and ran it around the knuckle and then a finger of the lube around the rubber o-ring on the inner side of the hub...I then pulled the axle toward me as far as I could (This is also the best way to get that seal on the back side if the knuckle firmly in place...Pull on the axle end and then slide the new hub on. BE SURE THE DUST Guard plate is in place!
Gently finger tighten the 4 bolts to the knuckle (with blue loc tite in place) there was some red already on the bolts from @BamaToy1997 I think...But I still dabbed blue on them. Confirming that back o-ring is in right and the 4 bolts are started I then tightened them down alternating across, like putting a tire on. I kept working them tighter and tighter until the all "Felt Tight"...or as I read here once - German Torque Specs "Gudentite"

I probably would have put new back side seals on if given the opportunity to do it again, but everything seems fine...I was just so overwhelmed with what it took too get those rusted hubs off I was just happy it all went back together..

I did calipers, rotors and pads too...It was all such a rust mess!

 

Oh, one more thing, Once you torque the axle nut to 173Ftlbs you should check the 4 hub bolts again...Just in case the axle nut pulled the axle closer and created some play with the hub. Not likely, but it was a thought I had while putting it together based on how I had to get it apart. Also, if you are trying to torque that axle nut and of course the hub starts spinning, Put a screwdriver in the rotor and use it against the brake caliper to stop the wheel from spinning so you can torque it...Like this...Probably one of the best tips I found online...as other people were putting it in 4 low to lock the axle from spinning and I didn't like the idea of that based on my concern that something may have come a little loose that won't be tight again until the nut is torqued...

 

Idk what I was thinking so I need to correct this. We were NOT able to torque the 4 bolts. We did as recommended above. I’m sorry for the confusion.

 

@youenjoymytacoAT2015, this gentleman @TreeFortRichard just made your project much easier and you can't even give his posts a like??? I thought his information was excellent having just done one of these myself.
@MolonLabeTaco, what you really meant by "we" was the guy you hired to do your work, right???

 

No. I don’t Hire anyone to do anything on my vehicles. I did the job for a friend on his Taco.
Go attempt to chastise someone else because you failed here.

 

Checking in-

So the hub assembly went in smooth on the right side. However, I got a bit ambitious and decided to replace the seal on the back of the knuckle.

Having assessed the situation I thought it should be as simple as loosening the two 19mm bolts underneath the knuckle in order to gain some room and slide the axle out then swap the seals.

PB blasted the 19mm bolts came back and gave a good effort. No budging. I then added a 3ft extension to my wrench for some extra leverage. This did not work. Instead, the bolt has begun to round. I tried the other bolt and same issue..

What would be the best way to remove and then replace these bolts? Any additional information would be greatly appreciated. Thank you all in advance.

Cheers,

Kory

 

Found a bolt extractor kit that includes a 19mm. If I purchase that can I buy two new bolts at NAPA?