Icon Stage 4 Install Detailed Instructions

I have a quick question and sorry in advance if it's a stupid question.

Do I need to disconnect the tie rod or ball joint to change the coil over?

I purchased some Icon Coil overs and my truck has light racing UCA's installed already.

Thanks in advance.

 

It will make your job a lot easier if you do...

 

i don't know why you have to disconnect the tie rod. Icon's instruction tells you to disconnect the tie rod as well. i just did an icon stage 5 on my runner basically was the same set up i was even able to reuse my dessert uca's from my 2011 tacoma on the 4 runner, just did a uca refurb with new bushings and uniball. and did not have to remove the tie rod. I can only guess that'll make it easier to take the coil over out. i was able to just get it on the right angle and move the coil over out of the housing. i also had my factory uca's out before i took out the coil over.

 

Getting Icon 58635 ext. travel non-res coilovers put on my truck next weekend. It's a 2015 DCSB SR 4x4. What amount of lift are those coilovers pre-set to from Icon? Is it 2" or 2.5"?

 

What you net for lift depends on what you got going on with your rig--is it stock or have you added upgraded skids and a bumper? Straight stock will likely net you between 2 and 2.5 and naturally you can go from there using your spanner wrench. Icon specifies you maintain at least 1" difference between the fully loaded hub-to-fender measurement and the full droop hub to fender measurement to ensure optimal downtravel and ride quality

 

Thanks @Erik65 !

 

Depending on the overall diameter of the new coilover assembly, maneuvering it out between the CV axle, tie rod and LCA can be very difficult. I found that pushing the spindle towards the front of the truck gives you more room, but it's still a squeeze. OP was doing this as a one-man job, so I can definitely see the benefit of disconnecting the TRE.

 

Does anyone know what size the 12pt cap bolt is for the UCA?

 

Awesome write-up. Video made it much easier (unfortunately they used the "easy" side when it comes to the UCA bolt). Still a bit apprehensive about the UCA bolts issue... The whole bending/cutting the sheet metal to take them out in one piece makes me cringe...

Thinking about just cutting them and replacing them with new ones, but I wonder if putting them in backwards has any side effects (vibrations loosening nut and bolt sliding down)... Or maybe I'm just worrying for no reason...

Anyone that put them backwards use anything else on the nut end to secure it a bit more???

 

Blue Loctite.

 

Just did mine last week, the bending isn't bad as long as you have a large set of channel lock pliers. In my option its a lot easier than cutting them out and having to purchase new ones. And I can hardly tell where the frame was bent.

 

I guess I'll need to actually look at it (all I've been looking at are pictures and videos of people who have done it), I haven't crawled under truck yet as I just received lift kit today.

Thank you all!

 

Bending isn't so bad, just take your time and make sure your bends will be covered by the plastic flaps when you're done and you cant even tell.

Put the passenger side in backwards but don't try and put the drivers side UCA bolt in backwards, it goes in much easier in the original direction. I tried to put in backwards the first time and got it half way in there and it all bound up on me and the head of bolt got stuck behind those hard lines that run just inside the wheel well. Took me 45 minutes or so to get it out, but it slips in perfect in the original direction.

 

Awesome! Thank you for the tips! Haven't pulled the trigger on it yet, so I'll def write this down!

 

I notice that this video states that you should not lubricate the outer part of the UCA bushing, yet the ICON installation instructions tell me to place lubricant on both sides:



What's the right answer here?

 

I grease all surfaces of the bushings and they are still looking new after a long time.

 

^^^ This. I did the same with my ICON UCA and no issues

 

That may be true for the tubular UCAs but don't do it to the billet ones

 

Also went with a stage 4, very happy with the results.

 

All good info. Late to the topic of this thread but you all have given me some willingness to give this a try. Looking at the ICON stage 4 setup. If I do, I will post info as I go.