DIY: Basic Speaker Upgrade- 2nd Gen Access Cab

under the headliner? has toyota pulled a ford move? wth... thats retarted... anyone know how to remove the headliner? any uninstall guides?

 

For now I'm just keeping my fade set heavy to the front. When I get around to upgrading the system I'll probably put in a power amp and rear channel coaxes in the doors.

Uninstalling the roof speakers is probably more trouble than it's worth since they're totally hidden, presumably very lightweight and won't make a peep if you just cur the wires to them and short the speaker-side of the cut (don't short the HU side of the cut or you'll burn out the amps in the deck which might kill the front channels too since it's almost certainly a single chip amp in there.

Not personally knowledgeable on the stock harness layout so I couldn't say which wires go there as of now.

 

Anybody know which speaker mount works best for 5 1/4" speakers? I have some component spares from my old car and not sure which mount to buy from crutchfield (bad reviews) or if the ********* mount will work. Thanks

 

The ********* stuff works great!

 

if i chose to put a 6 1/2 in my rear doors and not cut holes in them and everything do you think it would sound ok?

 

What size are the bolts and screws for the front speaker mounts?

 

Though it is ok to be timid on cutting up the new truck...not sure why you would not do this unless you are really challenged with a dremel. Any rough cuts can be covered by a nicly mounted speaker grill which you will use to trace the outline. I plan on doing this soon and found simple grills on Amazon for $5.

Also I do not think it would sound much of anything more then adding vibration and muffled effect. In other words there would be no point to this. If opening up that panel with speakers probably should use some sound deadening as well.

People have done a great job so far with this so far......
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/audio-video/46323-09-access-cab-rear-speakers.html#post812276

 

So, no one has any install info for new speakers in my 2010 Taco??

 

This whole thread is full of info. What's your question?

 

My issue is that the 2010 access cab has the rear speakers in the headliner pretty close to a airbag deployer. No one yet knows how to take the headliner off to maybe disconnect the wires, then splice the wires to go into the access door.

 

You don't really need rear speakers, that's more time and money spent than necessary for the kind of gain you'll get. Get some good speakers for your front doors, a sub, some new tweeters and a new head unit

 

Just to let everyone know, I bought a scoshe speaker adapter set for my dbl cab rear speakers. I got it for 13 bucks on Amazon. Just looked for 6.5" toyota speaker adapters. Search turned up some for a 2004 and up corolla/yaris. Looked legit and got em. Come to find out the kit is universal for all toyotas 2000 and up.

 

I'm half done with this( 1 door down) in my 2010 AC. Cut and terminated the rears together at the head unit. Ran new wires to the rear doors and cut/installed with new amp under seat. It is much better with 6.5 in the back now and with my seat back I can notice the difference.

 

There's no need to cut the wires under the headliner, splicing in near the harness plug to the HU will do for getting signal to speakers in the doors and there's no real harm from having the factory wires and speakers in there not connected to anything. Pulling out the headliner is definitely more trouble than it's worth.

 

All finished. I put 6 1/2 polks in the rears and dremel'd the holes out using the speaker grille mounts as a guide. I kept the stock head unit and used a reverse scosche adapter with standard adaptor. I was able to run wires from the access doors to my amp under seat. I wanted to use the stock wires in the front doors so I ran new wires from behind head unit off the scosche adapter down the center console and to the amp. I also ran RCA's from a Navone LOC down the center console. The front and AC doors had RAAMAT and ensolite as well as the back wall. I covered inside all the center console pieces with foam ensolite as well. Sounds great and don't even need an aftermarket HU!

I didnt even connect the stock rear speaker (blue) connector behind the dash, I used the reverse adaptor and wired directly to the LOC. It's floating back there now as it should be. Goodbye ceiling speakers.....sorta.

Also noticed the floor has quite thick padding on mine as well as the firewall. I had a tough time cutting it with razor just to get speaker wires through it. There is even foam inside my steering column shroud. I saw no need to tear down and do these.

 

Not sure if anyone else ran into this. If they did I must have missed it. I installed some new component speakers (Kenwood KFC-P709PS 6-1/2") today in the front doors of my 2010 AC 4x4. I suppose these speakers may technically count as two way since the crossover is built in and can't be adjusted, but whatever, it is in two pieces that I have to mount. I left the stock non-JBL head unit in there. For whatever reason the speakers don't work unless the stock tweeter plug is connected. Theres an easy fix, just cut the wires at the tweeter and leave the plug in there. Otherwise you'll end up with no sound.

If you examine the wiring for the plug its got 4 wires at the top, 2 black and 2 red. After about 2 inches both red wires are spliced together, and both black wires are spliced together leaving just 1 red and 1 black going into the actual tweeter. There is probably an explanation for this configuration and I think I know what it is, but I don't think it matters. if you're installing new speakers and you're takin' the factory tweeter out, cut the tweeter wires off and leave the plug plugged in and the wiring behind.

The system still sounds pretty bad even with the new speakers. But I will be putting in a new head unit some time this weekend, just waitin' on the steering wheel controller to come in the mail.

 

Tubesock,

I'm in the same boat. Putting in the HU tomorrow. The new speakers sounded like crap with the stock HU. Let me know how you make out. Seems like I lost a lot of bass with the new speakers- hopefully the new HU will make a profound difference.

Shano

 

Mr. Marv has great products contact him.

No they would not. I see that you already made an opening in another post.

X2

I put a set of Boston Pro 60's in the front and do not see a need for rear speakers.

 

the loss in bass and quality is probably because the new speakers have a higher power demand. I'm guessing you have to turn the volume up more now, too. Once you have a new HU you should gain some, if not all power back, plus have better quality.

 

Sounds fantastic with the new JL 6.5" speakers and the Kenwood HU. Can't believe how much volume there is. Spent a little time with the SWI-JACK steering wheel interface, but got it figured out. Off to take a drive and crank up the volume!