1st Gen Tacoma 12" OSR Outboard Shock Relocation - Outside Frame Rails

Update Oct 13 2023: another batch almost complete!
5 years in from October 2018!
https://archivegarage.com/shop-archive/ols/products/1g-tacoma-shock-relo-osr

*Shocks that fit: 2.5"×10", 2.5x12 and 2.0x12 smooth body remote reservoir

*Requires hose remote reservoir, will not fit piggyback

*Recommended shock: Fox 2.0x12.1" Performance Series (18.35" collapsed) custom valved by AccuTune Off Road:

https://accutuneoffroad.com/product/fox-2-0-x-12-performance-series-remote-reservoir/

*Requires wheel spacers and we recommend negative offset wheels (Example 3.5" BS wheels + 1.25" spacers)

*1G Taco version has LH&RH tabs for necked-down stock axle tube (contact us if using different axle)

Pic courtesy of @erice

 

I'm always in favor of more parts for the first gens, but we have issues with super low offset in the front so matching could be an issue. Even with pretty damn big offset 2.0s rub at full stuff outside the frame (frame doesn't taper like 2nd and 3rd gens) so 2.5" might be a stretch plus the shocks are always physically a bit longer too so fitting the right length could be a challenge. But I'd be curious to see if you all can make it work well I know @Blackdawg would love for this to work. I wanted to try it but I didn't really want the mud coating on the truck to get worse (lotta wheel poke equals messy weeks of camping haha) so I ended up going under the bed with 2.5s.

 

I saw your relocation thread, and it looks good, I like how you had the end plates weld to frame rails.

My idea probably won't work for everyone, it would lean towards the speed guys more than crawling

 

Im curious.

Right now i have a Total Chaos kit still in the garage to go on the truck. well....one of my trucks. The more DD/Weekend warrior/wheeler rig. However it is only for a 2.0 shock. It is also leaned pretty far forward, actually its the same angle as the upper passenger mount, but by doing this you can run their Hydro bump stop kit as well.

For my real rig. I had planned on doing a custom kit outside the frame with a wider axle.

I certainly don't care about tire poke and have wheel spacers already to match the front LT kit more

Family 4th Camping-73.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

That said, a straight vertical shock wouldn't allow for a hydro bump. You can't run those inboard on the frame without coming into the bed. For me, I really want a rear hydro. I think they make a huge difference and in combination with a 10'' double/triple bypass I think you could dial in a rear SOA setup that rides great.

Stuffing a 2.5'' shock back there is possible though. But its TIGHT and will rub no matter what likely. @Willbeck stuff some 10'' 2.5s back there with Solo's old relocation kit. He is running 3.5'' backspaced wheels and rubs still.

A 12'' shock isn't worth it. the 1st gen leaf geometer only cycles on average 10'' anyways. Some can get to 11'' though. So if the option isn't impossible, could be cool. More shock oil the better for me.

 

Nice, glad you aren't afraid of going wide. Thanks for the input, good info to process

I saw the TC bump kit, and my thought was to go inboard and put a landing pad right flush on top of axle, as you cut thickness of springs and height of perch out of equation. Or just slide the bump can rearward a touch which is also beneficial for ubolt clearance.

My thought on 12" travel is it'd be useful for Deaver or 63" springs.

Thanks, Eric

 

I haven't checked yet. But had planned on doing some meassuring and cycling to see if a bump on a SOA rig inboard the frame would be possible. Because you're right after factoring the leaf pack and also taking into account where you want the leaf springs to bump at correctly, it might fit. But it'll be close, so I'm not sure.

12'' of travel would be great if the springs will let it. I know on my, it seems to be a freak of nature on has lots of flex travel. I have the odd ball 3'' shorter leaf springs on the 95-97 tacos though.

Frankenstein-7.jpg by Monte Nickles Photos, on Flickr

I certainly would love 12'' of travel but not certain 12'' vertical is possible without some tweaks. Maybe 9'' shackles over the frame.

If you started a way to run a SUA setup like the TC or Camburg kit that is basically bolt on for 2nd gens with no bed cage. THAT would be awesome. Which honestly, if i had a 2nd gen Id run your towers and one of those kits with a +2 LT kit. makes for a super versatile rig.

 

@Blackdawg One advantage of the 1st gens is the bed doesn't taper out as you go up like 2nd/3rd, which drives the shock outboard.

Another benefit in same light is you can put a bump can on the frame and there's nothing above it, 2nd/3rd have to notch corner of bed for proper can height.

The 1st gen also has about 33% more stock bump travel than heavier 2nd/3rd!

 

ha now that's interesting!

1st gen FTW

Well im interested in what you come up with

 

Sub

 

.

 

Just adding this thought to, I think a significant benefit of shocks outboard ~4" per side is better stability and safer handling with the same damping rate. Plus spacers move the tires out to improve stability as well.

 

Not many people trust wheel spacers, im on the fence about em. How large of a spacer do you think we'd end up having to use? From my understanding anything over 2" is dangerous.

 

There are dangerous spacers IMO sure, such as non hubcentric style, made with poor quality hardware. But have you handled the hubcentric spacers from Spidertrax? They are amazing quality and design, I have 4 1.25" on my 2nd gen, no issues.

 

I'd be down to run something like this, currently have the same 1.25" spidertrax on my truck for years, never had a single issue. I rotate my tires religiously and check em every time and have never been loose.

Would my set up have enough clearance for something like this? I could go out there and look but I'm too lazy right now haha

 

I've rolled my truck with 1.5'' spacers and they were fine. Have had them on the other truck for years.

 

I'm running Solo's kit with a 2.5x10 piggyback. The piggyback, and the way the hoop is designed prohibit me from running hydro bumps unless i go through the frame.

I really like BAMF and TC's plate/box style relocation towers, and i like how they move the shock forward to make space for a bump can.

12's would be do-able, but the Deaver J59's i have and the 10" Kings are extremely well matched on my truck. A 63" kit would need a 12+ for sure. Where you start to run into an issue with the big body shocks is at full flex. When a side is drooped full out, the shock body angles in towards the frame. To create clearance for this, you need to push the shock out from the frame. Doing that pushes it into the tire. There is very little real estate on the 1st gen's for this. Even with spacers. With the 10" shock my fulcrum point is relatively low, and i don't need as much clearance on the frame side. a 12" shock being mounted higher would need more space.

I'll go see if i can snap some shots of my clearance with 3.5" BS wheels and no spacer.

 

Oh man, it’s going down.

@Prayn4surf @erice

 

As far as bump on a first gen, I would just drill a hole right through the factory bump pad on the frame, drill a hole in the bed above it, slide a bump can through, and have it bump off the factory location with a strike pad to replace the factory rubber bump. It's out of the way, and you don't have to bump inside the frame, which would be less than ideal, imo.

 

That 2.5 looks rad on there. You make a good point about the Solo hoop landing on frame across where you want a bump can to mount. I love the visual impact of the piggy backs but I am pretty sure what I end up with will require a hose remote reservoir mounted to frame. So I will definitely keep the air bump mounting in mind.

With my 2nd/3rd gen tower, I kept the upper shock bolt that points inward about 1/4" from side of bed, I know what you mean about bed forcing shock outboard into tire.

As for angle of shock you mentioned, we know the axle gets considerable angle when articulating, but I found the shock itself doesn't angle inboard much, somewhere around 5 degrees on a 2.5x12, so I will account for that.

Thanks for your post,
Eric

 

you bet! the piggyback was my personal choice because it looks rad. Solo advised against it lol. They also advised against the 2.5.

5* doesn't sound like much, but its a big amount when the clearances are like a 1/2" at ride height. I know you guys know what you're doing because I've seen and followed a lot of your offerings for the second gen.

My recommendation, get a 1st gen in the shop, preferably with Deaver J59's as they flex and cycle easily and add minimal lift. You will see how little clearance there is all around.

I only get away without spacers because I'm running a very modest 265/75R16.