BAMF 05 + 80" bolt on slider install instructions

Clean the rust up, then you can use what Jerry offer's on the site if you have the same (newer) powder, or just use rustoleum touch-up paint / spray paint. I have the older, and I do a coat of rustoleum then a coast of flat black (matches perfectly).

Edit / can confirm that replacement frame bolts makes install significantly easier, especially in the Hawaiian sun. Installed a lesser set today (because @JLee makes top notch shit and I won’t apologize for it), but that extra bolt tickled my special place and I had more beer drinking time.. and time for the other guy to tell me my sliders look better

 

Following many months of procrastination after installing my sliders, I finally got around to putting my transfer case skid back on. I am happy to report that BudBuilt Skids work with the BAMF sliders....sort of. The BudBuilt rear cross-member normally rests on the inside and bottom of the frame rails, but now the BAMF slider mounts occupy the bottom. So, the skid cross-member still fits more-or-less where it's supposed to, but now sandwiches the BAMF mount between it and the frame rail. The results in the cross member being lower, and the clamp bolt holes no longer line up. I think the fix for this will be to simply grind the cross-member hole into a slot to allow the bolt to move up just a bit. For now I left them mounted with the cross-member clamps off, and the plate doesn't seem to be moving at all. I will have to take them off again on 5000 miles for my 60,000 mile service, and I'll modify them then. Otherwise they bolted right up.

 

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Interesting information here

 

Do anyone have a how to install video?

Or do anyone know if BAMF do installation for locals?

 

We don't Install were manufacturing only.

 

I think I saw 1 video on youtube, although not very detailed.

I just got mine on last week. It is SO easy, you can't mess it up. Just follow the information in this post (and there is another write up on TW somewhere) and you will be just fine. All you need is a jack and a couple jack-stands and you can do it yourself. Took me a couple hours working slowly and taking my time.

 

It's quite easy to be honest. As mentioned, you just need a pair of jackstands and jack if you're doing it alone. Lay all the hardware out and read the install guide posted here in the BAMF sub forum. Took me less than an hour.

 

Ok thank you for the info TW!

 

80 ft/lbs is too much in my opinion. I’ve also bent 4 & cracked 2 washers

50-60 ft/lbs is more than enough

 

That is the 3/8th bolt you over torqued it for sure.

In the OP
Its now time to tighten everything down start with all three lower bolts then the rest all the bolt just need to be good and tight but if you must you can torque them to spec the factory bolt spec you have to find as I cant find it (I'll update when I do) the 1/2" bolts 80 ft lbs and the 3/8th to 33ft lbs

 

It’s not, it’s one of the big (1/2”) ones. I bought two new bolts to replace it and another one with screwed threads. It was the bolt that goes in the metal tab in the front frame crossmember

 

Ah it doesn't look like a 1/2" bolt from the picture i guess it's too close. The bolt must of been cross threaded as 78flbs should not shear a 1/2" grade 8 bolt.

 

The bolts I replaced the snapped with. My friend who does seismic steel strut install said 80ft/lbs is too much and even with their seismic hardware they don’t go beyond 60 ft/lbs

 

They only have to be good and tight they dont need to be torqued for sliders. No one brakes out a torque wrench to install.

 

Sounds like you just got unlucky. Grade 8 is fine to run at 80.

 

The cross member welded washer part has 4 holes, does it matter if the welded nut it flush or extended facing the bolt for the slider ?

 

You want the steel plate to be flush with the crossmember. So the second picture is correct.

 

Thanks for the quick response about to have at her again and turn it around

 

The lack of beer in those pics is the problem