Anthony's 2002 F-350 Tow Pig Build and BS

Where at you at?

 

08352

 

Shiny new parts getting ready to be installed.

GTP38R with high flow outlet, and EBPV pedestal delete


High flow outlet installed, along with turbo-master wastegate


New exhaust manifolds back from ceramic coating


New inner shift boot for the transmission, what a bitch to get that snap ring on. What were those german engineers thinking?!


Pressing on pulley to new PS pump


New clutch fork pivot stud


New release bearing


Bellhousing cleaned up a bit


The new goods, South bend dual disc organic clutch




I'm super impressed with the south bend clutch, the quality and customer service is outstanding. Packaging was great too, this clutch setup weighs 120 lbs according to the shipping label and it came completely in tact, although my UPS guy probably hates me

 

Moar new parts. Updated UCVH and valve cover gaskets. New harness has better clip retainers than the original one which should keep the plugs from backing out like they are known for doing over time


Replaced the rear oil galley plugs while the engine was out. Cheap insurance as getting to these bastards once the engine is in is a bear and the back ones are known to leak over time due to being exposed to the high heat close to the up-pipes




Replaced the lower flex supply and return fuel lines, old fuel lines were seized in the quick disconnect fitting so I had to cut the lines to remove the engine. These bastards were expensive


Replaced both high pressure hydro boost lines, these are known to leak as well so after a 1/4 million miles I figured it was worth the investment. These lines are also used for the braking system as well as the power steering since the vacuum system is alot smaller than a gas vehicle

Here's removing the old lines


New lines, sleeved with a coolant hose to prevent wearing a hole when rubbing on the shock tower (another known issue on the 7.3s)


New flex fuel lines re-installed. 16 years of grime also cleaned from the engine crossmember and frame.


Removed the old manifolds, of course no good deed goes unpunished. Two of the studs broke off, nothing a little migmonkey like myself can't fix. Weld a 3/4" grade 8 nut to the stud and the heat breaks free the stud, then zip it out with the impact. Passenger size broken stud


Driver side


Also took the opportunity to clean the radiator and intercooler, there was all kinds of crap plugged up in the fins


More updates coming soon

 

I remove the old oil pan, bottom end looked clean for 1/4 million miles as well! All the piston fluid jets were in tact and the bearings looked to be in good shape with no signs of overheating or excessive wear.


Removed the oil pick up tube to replace the gasket while I was in there


New and old FoMoCo gasket


New Moroso oil pan. Went with them over OEM due to the fact that the OEM pans were known to rust out over time and the Moroso pan has a better zinc coating and powdercoating, plus it is a little thicker guage steel over the OEM pan.


New oil dipstick tube adapter hardware and soft goods to replace the swollen o-ring in the old pan.



Here you can see the previous owner also tightened down on the adapter nut too hard and bowed out the inside threaded portion, hence the whole new hardware.


New threaded adapter installed, you can see a nice sealing surface inside the pan


New dipstick tube adapter installed and torqued, added loctite 515 to prevent any possible leaks


New pan RTVd back on the block and torqued down




Exhaust manifolds installed with new hardware and the international gasket kit




Picked up one of these thingies in an attempt to lengthen the life of the PS pump and red head steering box


Installed between the PS box outlet and cooler inlet


Getting close

 

Had sommore help from @HomerTaco to land the engine back in the truck, easier said than done. A little tough because of where the balance point of the engine vs. how much space you have by the firewall/cowl area to lower it. Ford wants you to remove the cab to remove the engine, yeah that wasn't happenin lol


Starting to look like a truck again


Alternator, A/C compressor, power steering pump and serpentine belt re-connected and the engine filled back up with ELC coolant (8 gallons worth! )


New Garrett non-EBPV turbo pedestal installed


Some ceramic coated international bellowed up-pipes installed as well, and re-connected the EGT probe. MUCH easier to put these in before the transmission is in the truck






Re-installed the high pressure oil crossover and brand new GTP38R installed and torqued down


Flywheel installed, bolts red-loctited and torqued to spec


Tip when installing flywheel solo, chain the flywheel to the engine block using a transmission bolt and pressure plate bolt so it won't spin


First clutch disc installed


Intermediate plate


Outer clutch disc installed


Pressure plate installed and torqued to spec


Core support and front header panel and grill are back in


Re-tapped one of the t-case shifter bolts to a 5/16-18 thread and installed a new grade 8 bolt, old thread was missing the bolt and was stripped out from the previous owner I guess


Next up is stabbing this heavy bitch of a tranny back in.

 

You’re basically making this a new truck, looks awesome keep up the good work

 

It was actually easier take that motor out that it was to put it back in.

Now that we’ve done a 7.3 a 4.0 would be like a go cart motor.

 

Oh trust me, I have ziplock bags full of old bolts, hopefully they are not required for anything critical As long as the wheels are torqued and the engine mounts are in, everything else can be fixed with a couple of hand tools.

Thanks! I think I underestimated how much work it would be to yank this bitch out but in the end it'll be worth it

Absolutely, the 4.0 should be a walk in the park. Pick it up with one hand with a beer in the other and hold it up in the air while you rebuild it

 

Tranny stabbin


Crossmember and skidplate put back on


New transmission cooler lines, fucked up a little and installed the old ones too close to the starter bolt due to missing a clip for them and they moved a bit on me

Oops


New lines


Sleeved with some rubber tubing to prevent future contact


Replaced all the u-joints on the front shaft


Double cardan fun




Old cap that was busted, no needle bearings were left in that one


Seal for the CV ball was also toast


The new goods, ordered a whole new flange with CV ball already pressed into the flange yoke and a new spring as well so I didn't have to fuck with it. Wasn't that much more than just ordering the CV ball rebuild kit to begin with so that's a win win




Cleaned up the seal seating surface on the ball stud yoke


New seal pressed on


Double cardan u-joints all pressed back together. Easier said that done, need 3 hands and alot of curse words


Differential end u-joint pressed in and ready to install in the truck with new caps and strap kit.

 

Forgot to update, the big rolling turd got new shoes, went with 315/75R16 S/T MAXX. So far really liking how they handle.

 

This reminds me a lot of my old F350 dually! Love the build so far, mine was fairly similar. Love the old 7.3s compared to all the newer stuff even if it's harder to get some power out of them. Mine was a beast and when the newer stuff was sitting in the shop I was still rolling!

 

Thanks for the kind words. To me this truck is a dying breed especially ones in decent shape. They are such a simple design and although the HEUI is now outdated; they still outperform the modern diesels with all the fancy crap that keep the tree huggers happy. Might not win the race but I view it as "the tortoise and the hare" that I'll still be chugging along while the modern diesels are fixing their emissions crap or filling their DEF tank LOL.

I've got a few more things planned for the truck, two are sitting in the shop now and awaiting install, maybe I'll grab some pics this weekend if I remember. Have a couple projects going on at the moment so I always forget to document them

 

Look at elite diesel if you haven't already done so. They are like the king of the 7.3 they also didn't jump ship and abandon the 7.3 as the newer stuff came out they keep looking to inprove it.

 

Documenting is overrated. When you're in the zone, ain't nobody got time for photos.

 

While I was out in the shop tonight I finally decided to fix up the Ford steering for good, ditched the old stabilizer in favor for a dual mounted king bling

The PMF kit seemed to be the best quality. The packaging and powder coating finish was also very good, and one of the only kits I've seen that mounted each stabilizer eye in a dual sheer design.


Say goodbye to the stock 17 year old leaking stabilizer, don't think it was really doing much anyway




This should help dampen out any of the road bumps, the steering feedback seemed to have gotten a bit worse once I went to 35's so hopefully I can take it for a test drive and I'm sure there will be a noticeable difference

 

I'm going to get an older truck soon. I'd love a 7.3 or 12-valve Cummins, but it doesn't even have to be a diesel.

 

They are certainly much easier to work on than the newer crap they are coming out with. A 12 valve cummins is a great platform, those 6bt engines are pretty much unstoppable. I feel like with a diesel, maintenance can get very expensive depending on the condition of the truck. Everything is basically double the cost of a gas engine lol

 

man, this was awesome to read through! you are a beast.

 

Thanks for the kind words, just tinkering around the garage and things get out of control quickly with any project I have

Speaking of that, I do have a FS-2500 to install that's been sitting here for a few months, I should probably blow the dust off it and get it in the truck this weekend