Tail light mod (both lights used as brake and signals)?

The resistors are not necessary.

 

Is someone going to make and sell a plug and play harness for this mod? I’d be all over that. I don’t do electronics.

 

Yes! Very soon.

It is worth the wait!

 

Awesome! Count me in!

 

Got tired of waiting for the plug-n-play harnesses, so I wired this up tonight. Spent about 4 hours stripping insulation, soldering, and heatshrinking, but it works perfectly. No hyperflashing and the full "C" is a beautiful sight when braking/turning. Makes my OCD happy... I used Diode Dynamic's turn-as-tail modules, some 25-watt 15-ohm resistors, four Endpage 7443 LEDs, and some adhesive-lined heatshrink tubing for weatherproofing. I've owned various VLEDs bulbs over the past 5 years, but they've gradually raised prices with each new product to the point that they've priced themselves out of the market IMHO. I've put a few sets of Endpage LEDs in the vehicles in my family this year -- couldn't be happier. Cheap and cheerful ($16/pair). Just as bright as my VLEDs Platinum 7443 red LEDS and good light pattern. Don't get me started on the VLED Tritons at $120/pair.

Also, just want to point out that a lot of people approach resistors for fixing hyperflash issues like they're black magic... You just want to approximate the wattage of the incandescent bulb you're replacing, which in this case is a 7443 with a high filament of 25 watts. Use a calculator like this one: http://www.bowdenshobbycircuits.info/ohmslaw.htm

I figure the two LED bulbs in each taillight will draw about 10 watts (5 watts each). The bulb I'm replacing is 25 watts. That means I need to compensate for a shortfall of about 15 watts. Plug in to the calculator: 13.8 volts and 15 watts. The result is 12.7 ohms. Round that to the nearest widely-available potted/heatsinked resistor value: 15 ohms. Nothing arcane about it.

It should also be said that resistors are rated for the wattage they're capable of safely dissipating, which in my case is 25 watts. However, given the voltage input (13.8v when engine is running), a 15-ohm resistor will have to dissipate just 12.7 watts and even then, only when the turn signal high filament is on. There's no power flowing through the resistor when the bulb is being used as brake or running light. Thus the resistor is stone cold most of the time and barely gets warm when the turn signal is on. You don't need 50-watt-rated resistors unless you're using super-low ohm values (like 5 ohm) and consequently dissipating ~38 watts, which is overkill for the bulb you're trying to simulate in order to make the flasher unit happy.

 

Glad to see another one brave the TaT mod!

You are right in that the resistor doesn't get hot like many people fear, but you'd be surprised how much the turn signals are actually drawing. I initially tested things with a small 10 ohm resistor that I had laying around, and it started smoking after 10 seconds of blinking. I don't remember the wattage rating of it, but it was definitely not close to the 50w rating my current ones are.

Also, you need to factor in the front turn signals when trying to calculate the overall power draw. For some reason, Toyota decided to put both front and rear signals (on the passenger side) on one circuit and the front and rear signals (on the driver side) on another circuit. I think it's why we've seen a disparity in the resistors needed.

Always loved that simple calculator!

 

I’m sorry it has taken so long, but changing trucks, travel and life have gotten in the way.

Here is the switchback first harness installed.



This is in operation... (Left Side).



I used LED bulbs on left side, stock on right. This is running taillights, not brake/stop, which would be much brighter. Of course turn is switchback Triton V6, so is also white reverse in similar brightness.

 

Sweet! I've already got my LEDs, tritons, and MESO adapters. Just need this. Are you going to make or sell some?

 

They will be a MESO (@mesojdm ) product. He has everything to move forward, but he just has so many fires right now. They are coming!

 

Nice work on this fellas!!!

Definitely let us know when these are ready...

 

Yep. Count me in for a MESO set.

 

If you're talking about a small, non-heatsinked through-hole resistor, even the "big" ones are rated for only 0.25 - 2.0 watts. A 10-ohm resistor would have been generating 19 watts of heat. Of course it started smoking instantly.

The resistors I used in my build (15-ohm, heatsinked, rated for 25 watts) barely get warm to the touch.

 

You wouldn't happen to have a video of that tail/brake & reverse/turn in action do you?

 

Looks great!!

Judging from the light output of your tails I may swap to LED brake/running sooner than previously thought.

Grats on the move and the new(er) truck!

 

Not yet, but I hope/plan to. The weather has been predominantly rain lately. I jumped at this ‘overcast’ interlude to get these installed.

 

Ok just wondering if you did. So this harness will have resistors for hyperflash wired in already?

We got snow last night already!

 

No need for resistor with Triton V6. Won't need for Tail/Stop either.
See, wasn't that easy?

 

Ok excellent I didn't know that. I'm liking this more & more!

Make it happen guys!!!

 

Is this different than the taillights that are offered on Mesos website?

(And always out of stock)

 

Yes. VERY different.
This thread is about keeping your stock tail lights and re-wiring them so they light up in a different pattern.
The lights I make a retrofitted(I.e completely disassembled and custom made LED boards to go inside)

What they both have in common is using the bottom reverse bucket to act double duty as a turn signal as well.