Frame restoration - did it myself

It's a 1998 that I bought at the beginning of this year, so I think the PO (my brother) probably missed the clock in 2013!

While it's probably a $5,000 truck now with the repairs I've done to it so far, I totally agree that it's not worth it, even still. The only reason I put the work in was some sentimental value (my brothers' and my old work truck, first date and bench seats ...). Still. I just wanted to advise anyone else who may be thinking of the job as to the amount of work and level of 'uncomfortableness'. I tend to do projects just to fill spare time, but this one ended up becoming full-time!

 

good job man. that blows about no coverage. but I can dig how you did it. looks good

 

Sub'd.....doing this over the next few months. Not going to take the bed off. I'll just get to what I can with the needler and treat/foam brush POR-15 everything I can reach.

 

Get that steel wire brush kit from harbor freight for cheap for the super tight cramped spaces inside the c channel frame by the fuel tank and catalytic converter. It helps to brush the loose rust off and get it good enough for the por 15. That's what I did

 

Awesome. Will do for sure. Thanks to everyone and the original poster for this very handy DIY. Appreciate the effort guys!

 

Don't skimp on the Ospho metal treatment. Apply it generously. It stops the rust chemically which is the most important part. Covering with the Por-15 will prevent new rust from starting.

 

t

Roger that!

 

I’m sorry if this has already been asked but I promise I looked at least a little bit. Did OP mention how much POR-15 he used for this project?

 

I applied two good coats on full frame, LCA, tow hitch. I used no more than 8 ounces.
I would recommend the smallest cans you can find. Because it's hard to preserve the larger can before it goes bad or lid gets stuck. Also, put at least two layers of plastic on the can before closing the lid.

 

I used a wire wheel and flat black paint. Seems to be working well so far. But I might try this method!

 

this is a lot to ponder!

 

Hey! So finally bought my first tacoma, been looking for one for a month and finally got a double cab long bed 2011 trd sport with 150k km. The frame is in almost perfect condition, there is a tiny amount of surface rust here and there where there are welded joints etc, a little bit next to the engine, looking good next to the cats. I want to do some preventative maintenance, so what I was thinking is to go at the existing rust spots with the por 15 kit removing any loose rust, and then when that's dry hit everything with fluid film. Any recommendations or reasons why painting only parts of the frame is not a good idea ?
Thanks!

 

how is this holding up after almost 5 years?

how much of a hammer did you take to it?

 

Wow, now that's labor intensive. Well done you.

 

what does that kit look like?
might be what i need to clean inside my old box frame before using the eastwood internal stuff
i have a wireless borescope all prepped and ready to stick in there and film, once the weather gets more above freezing
.....

also, this POR-15 seems to be a major headache PITA to use with all the prep work only to see it fail down the line and have to redo, do you know how i mean
there must be a similar yet perhaps better product out there

...

where is the OP, wanted to know how this was holding up and no reply at all

 

the wirebrush kit is just long handled brushes, good for the C portion of the frame to get behind the hard brake lines, fuel tank, etc. For the inside of the box frame I just used hot water, pressure, and a shop vac on blow to blow out/dry as much as possible.

POR 15 is a hassle and would like to know the same

 

i bot some engine detail brush kit from them but i assume you are talking something else?
current plans for me is to remove the fuel tank to totally clean that spot to the bare, quite a bit of soft frame paint in that area from a minor finger tap inspection

 

probably the same exact thing I was talking about lol but I think that engine detail brush kit is actually a bit easier with the grip. It was the only thing I could find that would let me scrub in those spots.

 

Have a few questions for anyone who's done something like this. Planning on doing a less-intensive version of this as a bandaid, later towards the fall i'll do this whole method, hazmat suit and all.

1. I have a bunch of extra PB Blaster...would this be useful at all for aiding in rust removal with a wire brush?
2. Is it worth using a Dremel/wire toothbrush/scour pads instead of a grinder, to make it simpler to get the hard-to-reach places?
3. From what i've been reading the quick method looks like this: Remove Rust - Degrease - Coat. Is this correct?

Thanks guys

 

If you fully commit to the POR 15 products then after the degrease is the metal prep(acid etching)
This is import if you want to stop the current rust chemically. I have also used POR 15 on new steel. Happy with the results so far