Aftermarket carrier bearings/center support bearings?

Thanks for the info. Unfortunately, the original only lasted 62K miles.

Now trying to find a 5002007 in stock.

 

Got mine on EBay

https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/362485319996

 

Did yours have the tabs on it?

 

i got mine at drivetrain american. looks like it shows 1 left in stock? https://www.drivetrainamerica.com/s...ma-driveshaft-center-support-carrier-bearing/

mine didn't have the tabs that are in some photos. tabs aren't necessary and my original didn't have tabs either. i think the tabs just help it "hang" during installation and to avoid dropping the drive shaft on your face once the two bolts holding it place is fully removed.

 

I do not have any vibrations but once I do I will put on a custom Tom Woods two piece drive shaft with a double cardan joint right behind the stock carrier bearing. This seems to be the ultimate solution for a vibration free ride.

 

I think that’s a stock photo.

 

Thanks everyone for the info.
I ordered a 5002007 from Drivetrain America on eBay. They're the ones that keep telling me I need 5002334 but I'm going with the knowledge of this forum!
I'll send them an update once I get it together.

 

I wanted to update the post.
I bought the 5002007 and the 5002334. Both made by Spicer (Dana).
I actually took some measurements to compare them.
They are the same bearing except the 5002007 has grease seals in both ends. The shaft and flange have ground journals for the seals.
The 5002334 does not have any seals. I guess that's why the 5002334 will work in the 4X4. You just don't get the bearing protection.
I installed the 5002007 in my Tundra. It is exactly the same one that I took out. Toyota p/n 37235-35030 was molded into the rubber on both of them.
Thanks again for the info.

 

Installed the 5002007, with Spicer u-joints and STILL have a vibration.

 

You need to check your driveshaft angles, get those in or close to spec. Another problem may be the shaft is out of balance.

 

I looked at the angles and ther’re close to what they should be. I’ll shim the CB down a bit today.

Would changing the u-joints effect the balance?

Someone else mentioned transmission mounts in another thread, but I can’t find his post...

 

That was me I think. I have DMZ (Tim Duncan) motor and trans mounts. I had a harmonic resonance I couldn’t figure out.
It’s a symptom of many possible problems. Not only was it annoying, the vibrations can cause damage to other parts of the drive train.
After doing everything you did I got around to installing my URD headers and the motor mounts. The oscillations decreased. A few weeks later I got around to the trans mount, no more vibrations at all now.

 

Awesome, thanks for responding!!

I’m looking to do headers soon and will look into replacing all mounts. Where did you get them?

EDIT: DMZ Fab? I fount the website.

I spent a career troubleshooting vibrations on helicopters and this is driving me nuts.

 

Yup, no IVHMS or track and balance on these things.

Lots of the stuff DMZ makes isn’t on the sight. He responds quickly to emails and almost always picks up the phone. There are weld on gussets too if you want to install those while you’re down there.

Stay away from DTF mounts. I tried those first and they caused clearance issues with my engine. He blamed a bad laser cutting batch. But there have been many complaints. Not to mention they were almost impossible to install. I’ve installed two sets of DMZs now. The other truck had to open up one of the trans mount holes a bit. Only issue.

 

Awesome, I’ll give him a shout.

Too bad I can’t install a IVHMS system or at least some accelerometers and diagnostic computer. Cost would shadow my S/C install, if not exceed the value of my truck...

 

You’re in AL, maybe if you rummage through Ft Rucker’s garbage you’ll find some.

 

Near Redstone, I avoid Rucker like the plague.

 

Could be the Trans mount/rear motor mount is weak. Ujoints wouldn't have a large effect on shaft balance unless you put the shaft together out of phase.

 

Shaft is in phase (verified with a string and laser level), and I did a 180^ on both the fwd yoke and fwd DS half (separately), just to make sure I didn't make a mistake there (old-timers).

Still, little to no change.

looks like mounts and/or DS balance is next.

 

This is where I got mine from too. They were fine to deal with, until mine failed prematurely. I emailed them with the proper information, asking for warranty details (basically could they warranty it or did I need to go directly to Spicer) and received a confirmation of receipt, but no reply. I then forwarded that email to them again...never a reply. Just an FYI.