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Exhaust - clamped or welded?

Discussion in 'Performance and Tuning' started by Scott B., Nov 9, 2018.

  1. Nov 9, 2018 at 5:50 AM
    #1
    Scott B.

    Scott B. [OP] Well-Known Member

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    About 2 years ago, I installed a URD Spec-U exhaust (in anticipation of future upgrades. :))

    As delivered, the system is clamped together.

    Once I installed the system, and heat cycled it a few times, I tightened the clamps - as expected. About a year later, I checked the clamps, and all were fine. I noticed, however, some black carbon/soot on the exhaust pipe, right under the clamps. Apparently, over time, a very small amount of exhaust gases pass through the clamped connection.

    The leaks are not a problem, but leads one to think - should I go back and weld the joints?

    As is, if/when the time comes to replace a component of the system, the job is easy. Once welded, it is a very different story. But, when will have to change the muffler?

    Any thoughts, suggestions, insight appreciated.
     
  2. Nov 9, 2018 at 6:02 AM
    #2
    Clearwater Bill

    Clearwater Bill Never answer an anonymous letter

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    If they are not a problem..........
     
    Torspd likes this.
  3. Nov 17, 2018 at 9:30 PM
    #3
    Roostfactor

    Roostfactor Well-Known Member

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    The black soot comes from the condensation in the exhaust and finds the path of least resistance out of all of the clamped pieces. If it doesn't bother you and you don't have any exhaust leak sounds I'd leave it as is for easier maintenance whenever the time comes.

    Roost
     
  4. Nov 18, 2018 at 5:27 PM
    #4
    Scott B.

    Scott B. [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks. I figured it was something like that.
     
    Roostfactor[QUOTED] likes this.
  5. Nov 19, 2018 at 6:45 PM
    #5
    White lightning boosted

    White lightning boosted Well-Known Member

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    Lift, pedal commander, led foglights, led interior lights, led back ups, led under lighting, urd tcai, led headlights, methanol injection, 76mm tb, hood struts, dif breather mod, ratiotek trans kit, x-series gauges, true cool trans cooler, belt wrap mod, 2.8 pulley
    I agree with leave it bolt on. Also allows room for some movement. Who knows, you might upgrade to a @Roostfactor y-pipe someday.
     
  6. Nov 20, 2018 at 6:03 AM
    #6
    Scott B.

    Scott B. [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks. I appreciate the opinion. I think I will just leave it alone.

    Oh, I will have more questions for you two when I install my S/C... :)
     
  7. Nov 20, 2018 at 6:45 AM
    #7
    White lightning boosted

    White lightning boosted Well-Known Member

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    Check out the s/c thread. Warning, deep rabbit hole.
     
  8. Nov 20, 2018 at 7:04 AM
    #8
    Scott B.

    Scott B. [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I've been reading it for a while now.

    I figured I wouldn't post in that thread until I was ready to install the s/c. It is sitting in the box in the basement. Just waiting...
     
    TitanRattler813 and Roostfactor like this.
  9. Nov 20, 2018 at 7:06 AM
    #9
    White lightning boosted

    White lightning boosted Well-Known Member

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    Feel free to chime in with questions. Very helpful dudes there. Think my coupler in my s/c went out just now. Guess I'm going to do some wrenching.
     
    inwood customs likes this.
  10. Nov 20, 2018 at 7:20 AM
    #10
    Roostfactor

    Roostfactor Well-Known Member

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    I installed the crank pulley, front intercooler, reservoir, inter cooler lines, and intercooler pump and harness (REMOVE FUSE) weeks before installing the blower.

    You can do these projects in smaller chunks of time so the main blower install is less time consuming. I just taped up the open intercooler hoses to keep the system sealed.
     
    BassAckwards and TitanRattler813 like this.
  11. Nov 20, 2018 at 7:28 AM
    #11
    Scott B.

    Scott B. [OP] Well-Known Member

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    That is a really good idea. One that I will be using...
     
  12. Nov 20, 2018 at 7:33 AM
    #12
    Roostfactor

    Roostfactor Well-Known Member

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    Glad to help!
     

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