I threw 2 crank rods 1GRFE @ 185k

Lack of oil pressure ?

 

With a damaged oil pump- as the oil hits the scarred surfaces when hot- it’s creates cavitation due to surface area that’s not perfectly flat. If that cavitation gets into vital areas, rotating assemblies, you get those air bubbles compressed and then you have metal on metal contact. A damage oil pump will also struggle with the correct Oil pressure.

 

Or is you have a radiator leak from a head gasket or a leaking injector can dilute oil and the main bearings go quick/

 

I remember you saying you smelled fuel in oil. Bad injector dilute oil then bearing goes seems like good possibility. Good luck with new engine

 

I just want to figure out the real cause so I can ensure it does not happen to me :0

 

Also, cracked ring lands can allow for a lot of blow by. Either way too much fuel in the oil is no good.

 

It's out. Windowed both sides of the block.




@JimSnell made a lift plate to use the intake.

 

I give you props for doing a full on autopsy on that motor and posting within 4 days. You have incredible skills. I can only hope someone has skills like this in NC when needed.

 

With the right tools and equipment at your disposal, it comes down to commitment. I don't have $6k to give a shop, but my work is cool with me doing this. No turning back now.

 

What oil filter are you running?

 

Tor, any advantage to running a larger filter?

 

More oil capacity probably

 

Feel like a big man?

 

Don't know which 'one' you're talking about but these types of failures can happen quickly with no noticeable drop in oil pressure before whatever shits the bed.

 

More capacity. Should filter media lengths be the same, of same manufacturers, then the height means more surface area .

 

Sorry to hear about this. Do you know if the PO overhauled the engine? What engine stuffs did they replace you just found out about? I had a friend that bought a 90 Yota pickup that threw a rod in the 22RE engine due to poor engine overhaul that he didn't know about until we started to take the engine apart.

 

Not sure what the PO did engine wise all I know is some bolts where torqued tight and others came easy. Also when I separated the trans and engine alignment marks where off so someone's been in here before since it rolled off the factory line.

 

Did you source a new motor yet? You could buy a whole truck from copart in Seattle (they let you start it before buying) and make money parting it out when you got what you need.

Have you had oil analysis done before the failure? @anthony250f you should do that if you suspect rod knock. The metal shavings will be a dead giveaway