Anything welding

B spreads the load the most. As a side note you could probably just weld the top if this is the right you want to go .

 

Personally I like B. It gives 2 attachment points further apart

 

B

 

B. Continous weld on top. Sticch weld bottom in 5 spots and run a bead of seam sealer the whole way across

 

Thanks guys.

I’ll go with B, with top full weld and the bottom stitch welded and seam sealed.

How do I approach the welding sequence to prevent warping the entire 4 foot length?

 

Tack tack tack...
Followed by
Fill fill fill...

 

It does not really matter !!

If it breaks then fix it repeat as needed.

Your still trying to make it look original Why??

Just curious ??

I like the square Tube idea myself cause I have many feet of freebies !

 

Because I like the look.

And I like doing what I like.

 

No better reason !

 

Because I’m a noob at welding.

 

Me to

 

Here’s the sum total of my welding career:

First project:

#1. Snow chain link repair


Then graduated to:

#2. Total Chaos Cam Tab Gussets



#3. This trailer

 

Maybe I can grab some free square tube when I pick up that TIG cooler?

 

Isn't conduit galvanized?

 

For those of you that use a tube bender, I'm in need of a tubing rotation/indexing gauge to keep my bends on the same plane. I'm currently using an analog gravity type angle finder and its just not accurate enough. I'm still getting my bends slightly out of plane with one another and its quite noticeable when I'm doing my fit up. What do you guys use for this?

 

It stinks, true. Grind off the galvanization with a flap disk.

 

** I haven't bent anything yet****
but... how about using a sharpie and marking a line along the tube, you can use that as a reference point, just light it up somewhere on your die/bender. ( I saw this on youtube while watching bending vids )

 

I had clamp blocks that I'd lock on there with a flat surface and used a gauge off that .

 

I could do this with the seam of the tubing but I need exact reference points, not just something to use to eyeball it. I need my bends to be within half a degree or so of each other. I also wouldn't trust a reference line I drew on a round piece of tubing that's 7 feet long or even the seam for that matter. One slight knock and I'd be off.

That also won't work for making bends that are out of plane with one another which is something I'll be doing at some point in the future.

 

Got any links to those clamp blocks or did you make them?