Camping Truck 04 DC Build (4x4 Conversion)

Haven't had the time to jump on the highway with classes since my college refuses to just give us the whole week off. My speed sensor failed to show up in the mail today and has been stuck at a USPS distribution facility 2 hours away for 4 business days according to tracking.

If I don't get it tomorrow I'll have plenty to talk about on it's behavior without a VSS on my drive home. I find it interesting that the VSS CEL only went on once I drove over 45mph the first time.

 

Yeah my CEL did the same thing, didn't show up until 45mph

 

Speed sensor is 6-8 mph off so not usable on the highway. Guess I’m in a gear hunt now too.

 

Got a bunch of creaking and popping coming from the front end suddenly. Also feel a slight vibration and hear a noise from the front left every wheel rotation. Going to jack the truck up later and do a wiggle and shake on a few things.

Possible solutions are new sway bar/steering rack bushings, lower ball joints(I don’t remember what brand mine are but I’d only go OEM now) and/or a new wheel bearing if the machine shop somehow pressed it in wrong.

It randomly started after hitting some trails on the local public land.

 

Front End Vibrations/Noises Solved
Solved all of my problems on the front end. Rolling with OEM lower ball joints now. My rotor on the driver side was warped when I bought the truck and I couldn't get it off for the conversion without hitting it pretty hard. Apparently I hit it pretty hard and it was causing the vibrations as it contacted every rotation on jagged edges that had been dug into the surface. Either way new LBJs and a new rotor solved my issues.

Durobumps installed on LCAs

Installed these front bump stops today. My second purchase from @Plastics Guy after my front diff bushings. Testing them out tomorrow off-road but they sure make the potholes around town nicer. I'd recommend them to anyone even if you just daily your vehicle.


Speedometer is 99.9% accurate.

After the conversion I installed a cheap Chinese speed sensor into my plugged transfer case VSS hole. The gear included with it had 33 teeth. I determined this was too many and ordered two other gears. A 30 (#33403-39365) and a 31 (#33403-39345) tooth gear. The 30 tooth gear was almost perfect and is less than 1 mph off.

Here is a small list of tire size, gearing, and gear count accuracy I've gathered from @turbodb and myself.

• ~0% error 255/85 R16 BFG KM2 tires + 4.10 gear ratio + 30-tooth speedometer gear (#33403-39365)
  
• ~1% error 265/75 R16 BFG KO2 tires + 4.10 gear ratio + 30-tooth speedometer gear (#33403-39365)
  
• ~6% error 255/85 R16 Cooper ST Maxx tires + 4.88 gear ratio + 33-tooth speedometer gear (#33403-39415)

I also took the time to add some high temp wire looming to my exposed extended VSS wiring harness. It was just bare wire sitting against a hot transmission. Didn't get a picture but it looks a lot nicer and I'm not worried about the wires anymore.

 

That there is some good info. Thank you as i will need that info when i get there.

 

Some low quality Instagram rips of my recent testing. My buddy and I took his Excursion and the Tacoma out and competed on various hills/obstacles out on the local public lands. Some decent wheeling for being ~15 minutes from my house.

 

Looking good, man!

 

Really need to get this thread updated and get some posts edited with more pictures/descriptions. But I somehow ended up with a 03 3500 5.9 Cummins project and a significant decrease in free time this semester.

 

@04Pre_Runner WOW, what an badass build. You got more balls than I do. I just bought a 03 limited crew cab back in 2010. Really love the truck, and it looks exactly like yours. Educate an old man, too many acronyms. FPIG is some kind of gasket sealer? Also how does it ride with the OME suspension, and did you purchase everything as a kit. I'm looking at one to upgrade my suspension, and was wondering how it rides with the 882 coil springs you chose. I just finished reading the entire build, and you should be very proud of yourself. Not many of us would venture into something like this. A lot of hard work and sweat, and let's not forget $$$. If you don't mind my asking, what did this build run you dollar wise.

 

Thanks. It was definitely quite the task to take on with the experience I had at the time. I had to harass a couple guys on this forum for details and explanations but everyone was extremely helpful when they realized I was serious. Before I could start the conversion I ended up doing a bunch of smaller projects on other vehicles that prepared me a bit better.

I'd wanted a double cab first gen since I was a kid and I had to compromise on it not being 4x4. When I realized a conversion could be done for less than selling my truck and buying a 4x4 I was 100% on doing the conversion. Yeah FIPG is just formed-in-place gasket maker. The OME suspension has been pretty solid for me and I bought it from Wheeler's Off-Road in a kit with leaf springs and shocks/coils. I wouldn't recommend the 882 coils if you aren't going to be adding significant weight to the front end of the truck. My truck rides pretty stiff right now with just my bumper. I also bent my rear passenger shock off-roading when my leaf spring slammed into it. From what I have gathered any aftermarket shock would have done that and a relocation of the passenger side rear shock mount fixes the problem.

As for the dollar amount for the 4WD conversion I don't think I addressed that very well as my build log is really unorganized right now. I started the build off buying that 4Runner for $400. Then spent a bit over $1500 total by the end of it. I don't have a specific amount but might gather the receipts and emails up to get the number. After selling the 4Runner for scrap and a ton of other parts being sold I've made a lot back. Cost for suspension was around $1600 after I did tubular upper control arms from SPC.

 

@04Pre_Runner "Since you were a kid". I'll turn 62 this year, and I've overhauled a few motors, early 80's F-100 inline 6, 69 El Camino 350 small block, and last a 1979 Full size GMC Jimmy, also a 350 small block. I also wen through the rear end, replaced wheel bearings, axle seals, rebuilt the manual front locking hubs. Before I took on the small block, I purchased a book by David Visor "How to overhaul a small block Chevy". Read it twice and said too myself, I can do this. just took my time and referenced the book when needed. Looking back, I really enjoyed the learning experience. So, I'm curios, mid thirties, early 40's maybe. Regardless, my hat's off to you for "Sheer" determination to complete what I think is quite the task for someone with limited mechanical experience. One of the reasons, I joined this forum, was from all the threads and posts that I've read over the last several years, and how helpful most of the guys and gals here are willing to help. Plus all the videos and photo's on how too's is just amazing. I still try and do most of my Tacoma maintenance, but I have to recruit help, because of a really bad back. Again, pat yourself on the back for a job well done. Did you replace your front lower ball joints, and if so were they Genuine Toyota parts. Would you be able to post part numbers you used.

 

This thread explains the lower ball joint part number situation. It had me pretty confused for a bit. The parts listed below are the bolts and the left and right lower ball joints. I personally believe OEM is the only way to go with these but other members will argue that point to death.
Part Number:

$136 43340-39436 Toyota Ball Joint - 43340-39436

43340-39436
Part Number:

$206 43330-39556 Toyota Ball Joint - 43330-39556

43330-39556
Part Number: 90119-10933 x8

My truck rolled off the lot while I was starting Kindergarten so it truly was a vehicle I had wanted since I was a child. My father is a couple years younger than you and I try to give him a hand when I'm visiting and he needs things on his truck done, but most of the time he just has a shop do the work. I can respect wanting to do it yourself even with help.

 

So it's been bugging me that my transfer case has over 300K on it. It was full on fluid when I got it and seemed fine but when one with 123,000K on it showed up at a yard for $125 I looked into it.

I'm pretty sure this isn't a J-shift going by the pictures the yard sent me. They had it listed with pictures of an interior with a J-shift knob. The second picture shows only one rod which from what I understand from messing around with mine means this is not a j-shift. They also have a 98 Tacoma 4cyl part out listed as a V6 Tundra. So not the most knowledgeable yard.




@BartMaster1234

 

I don’t know what’s going on with the shifter portion. Looks like it’s missing a flange or a coupler.

Definitely J-Shift. Notice the lack of an actuator.

 

Yeah I'm just confused now. The second rod slot looks like it has a cap over it. I doubt I'll buy it now even for $125. And I just noticed the rod sticking out next to the rear driveshaft flange.

 

Now i know what the other shifter i got with my T-case went to. It had a round end on that would not fit my case.

 

And it’s still a j-shift case apparently. This one came off a 2004 V6 automatic access cab according to the yard.

 

Between the shift plate on top, the rod out the back, and the chopped wiring harness going towards where the actuator would be, Id say that’s a push-button t-case

 

This is the truck the yard insisted the transfer case came from.