The Torque Spec. Guide

It is a mistake. Someone suggested it was flipped and should be more like 73 ft lbs. I followed the torque chart and had driven my truck around with the u-bolts at 37 ft lbs after swapping leaf packs for a couple of days (nothing happened) but yeah frickin typos.....

 

Getting ready to change spark plugs(first time for me on this vehicle). Was double checking on torque specs for coil pack bolts and spark plugs. Excellent post. Thank you!
No problem loading here.
Those first pics look like coil pack bolts. They don't take much tightening for sure.

 

This weekend I am changing the oil, front and rear differential and transfer case fluids in my 2015 TRD for the first time. Also adding SumoSprings to the rear axle, and SuperBumps to the front. I sat down tonight to research what torque settings for each of these, and one search later I find this great post. Tacoma World is truly a wonderful place!

Steve

 

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Thanks for the info.

 

After years of lurking and referencing this thread, I finally created an account just to thank you.

 

I'm replacing my lower control arms today, since the balljoints were preinstalled I just have to torque the castle nut (103 ft lbs), is it best to do this with the weight of the vehicle on it? That's my understanding for the LCA cam bolts, so I'm assuming I should torque everything once it's down.

 

@Benson X you are a saint!

I had a laundry list of things I did on my truck this weekend:

• I had the front and rear diff’s out (regeared from 3.73 to 4.56)
• Had the lower control arms off to service the ball joints
• Swapped out the CV axles (leaky boot)
• Installed the ECGS bushing

When I was getting everything back together your post was a life saver. This gave me so much confidence when it was all coming back together.
I wish “rep” was still around so I could send some your way!!

 

I think you should be fine to torque everything else down while you’re up in the air.
My understanding is that you only want to torque the LCA bolts when your truck is under its’ own weight because the bushings of the LCA are going to be “locked in” once you torque them down, so you want to do it when the truck is at ride height in order to prevent placing a constant strain on the bushings.
If the LCA bolts are torqued down when the front end is jacked up and at full droop the bushings will have a “home position” at full droop resulting in the bushings being constantly twisted when at ride height.

I’m getting an alignment tomorrow and will be checking the LCA bolts when I get home. And having just done a gear swap, I am going to be draining & refilling the diff’s in 500 miles. When I do that I am also going to revisit every nut & bolt that I touched to make sure they are still torqued correctly.

 

I put some kind of ink/paint/etc mark on each bolt that's been touched on the truck after the factory and if possible write the torque spec next to it. Silver or gold metallic pens from Milwaukee are fantastic so is Sharpie's big white paint pen. On top of that keep a spreadsheet or highlight the torque values on the print outs from the FSM and keep it in a folder. This makes pre-trip and post-trip inspections a snap.

/edit for wording

 

You just blew my mind, that's a great idea!
I'm thinking I will need to employ some of these methods.

 

i also mark a line on the nut to the mating surface so when you are on the trail/run its easy to see if you are are loosening.

 

Dude, such an awesome resource. Thanks for putting all this together!

 

Will be using this guide to torque a few bits and parts soon.

 

Thanks for taking the time to assemble all this! So many links and info saved for future use. Suspension upgrade DIY coming up next month. I assume these values are still valid for 3rd gens?

 

Ok so I’ve got a few questions. Tq for the hub bolts to the spindle is 59ftlbs, should be the same tq for maxtrac’s too, right? Also, is there any type of seal I need between the spindle surface, dust cover, and hub before installing? anyone else use Detroit axle brand prerunner hubs before?
And lastly, 2wd hubs have that center cap installed, is it easier just to pop out the old one from the old hubs and install on the new hubs or can they be bought from dealership?

 

I installed a ready lift 2 inch rear block and the torque for the u bolts per manufacturer were 140 ft lbs.

 

bump on this anyone know? ^^^^^

 

Not sure if this has been discussed. (Thread TLTR). Here is a formula and a online calculator is using Crows Foot on a torque wrench.

https://www.engineersedge.com/manufacturing_spec/torque_wrench_1.htm

 

Still the best thread