0w-20?

2013 Tacoma 65k miles 4cyl . Cap and manual calls for 0w-20 Is there any advantage of harm in running 5w-20? Live in Georgia

Thx

 

Not in my opinion. I have used 5W30 in mine for years. The manual recommends that for heavy duty use.

 

If you live in an extreme cold climate (below zero F), stick with 0w20. Otherwise 5w20 would probably be OK. If you live in an extreme hot climate, you might consider 5w30.

 

Northeast GA so I really dont get either ...Thanks

 

Why dont you want to run 0w-20?

 

I am good with 0w-20; was just wondering if there were any advantages to something else.

changed this weeked to Castrol Edge 0w-20.

 

Im new to these trucks but every shop down here in Central Florida tends to recommend the thicker oil as with our winters, 30-anything temperatures is considered the ice age down here and 0w is just not necessary which is the conditions it’s really designed for. A very well known and reputable Honda/Toyota shop in town that has serviced my wife’s Honda for years has recommended 5w in the 0w engine. It was one of the first models asking for 0w that Honda put out and it’s gotten Mobil 1 standard 5w20 for years. It’s got 160K on the clock, never had any engine issue and runs just as good and gets same mileage since it was new.

Obviously if warranty is a concern I’d go by the book but otherwise if you live south and it makes you feel better ,I highly doubt 5w will give you any issues

 

0W20, 5W20, 5W30, are all good. I'm running 5W40... living in the midwest..... in winter. And it's fine.

 

The answer to this oil thread is this; the kind of oil you want is... the slippery kind.

 

my owners manual says use 0w20 or if not available use 5w20 only till the next OCI then use 0w20, it doesn't state why 5w20 cannot be used on a regular basis and I have never figured out why using a 5w20 would be harmfull to use regularly.

 

This is my second 2.7. I got 417000 miles out of the first one before the frame went and the engine was running perfectly. I live in one of the coldest snowiest spot in the continental US. I see temps colder than -35f without wind chill every year. I run Mobil 1 0w40. Castrol 0w40 or Rotella 5w40 would do just as well. My suggestion would be to run a 0w30 if your not hard on your rig. If you tow and or drive at high rpms for extended periods to run 0w40. 20wt oil is the result of US CAFE standards for fuel economy. Check out www.bobistheoilguy.com.

Get a used oil analysis from a reputable source. Don't take my word for it. My oil choices are supported by Toyota via the owners manual.

 

The owners manual for my 2006 - 2.7l says to use 5W30 or if not available use 10w30 only till the next OCI then use 5w30. I think it's all about the result of US CAFE standards for fuel economy, as ^^^ JoeyTaco stated above. IMO my truck will run just fine with 10W-30, but won't get the desired MPG and it's why they are pushing thinner and thinner oils, even if it may not be the best for my 2.7l engines longevity.

 

Thin oils are for CAFE standards. Not for engine protection. I run Amsoil 10-30 Signature in my 2004 2.7 in southern Wyoming. I did install an oil pan heater as well as a battery heater. I don't "need" it below zero but why stress the starter and battery when I don't have to. I still have to start it at work when it's down around zero. I can plug it in there but usually don't. In Georgia you could easily get away with 5-30, 0-40 and probably 10-30.

 

Thicker oil flows slower through the VVT screen and retards ignition timing (or so I’ve heard) so I stick with 0-20

 

Now that you mention it. I "do" have a 2004 and with VVT in these newer enginesoil selection is very important. I'd still run the thickest oil I could get away with though but it depends on where you live.

 

The engine, VVT, oil pump/pressure etc is designed for the oil viscosity on the cap/in the manual, there's many fleet-use 4-cly out there with many abusive fleet miles to prove it.