TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I reverted back to stock size intake diameter tubing. Currently experimenting something @Roostfactor @White lightning boosted @Athlaos.

So far I am really liking what I see. Standby.

 

My question is, did he truly break the ECU code, or he just selling a shittier UCON that doesn't have nearly as many tuning options. Seems like alot of people are having issues. If his tuner truly changes the ECU code why couldn't you buy his tuner and take it to a dyno shop for max numbers. If you can, I need to read more into it lol

 

Mat asked what mods I have before sending me v-2. Let's hope something good comes of it.

 

Might have to give it a shot. I asked in his thread if I can take his tuner to a Dyno. I'll check back next week and see if he responded

 

Pro Tip!

Don't pull on the brake lines to hard when you're pulling the axles out for a rear diff swap. This is the third time I've changed one out and disaster struck! Noticed brake fluid dripping, thought a connection had just come loose, tightening everything up and bent the brake line back into position, went to bleed the brakes after I was done with the diff, and fluid is still leaking out, tried to bend the brake line back into a straight position and this happened. I guess repeated bending of the brake line to pull the axle out wore down on the tubing at the connector and it finally said enough was enough.

Went to Napa and got the right size tubing and bought a little tubing bender from them. Hope I bent it correctly and it fits up. Currently waiting for kids to wake up from nap so I can open the garage door

 

Yeah I have to get to work tomorrow. trust me I already looked up part numbers lol. Was considering just capping off that brake for the weekend so I could get to work, but a Napa tube bender and the right size tubing got me squared away. Also have the right part on order at Toyota for $11, picking up on wednesday, but wanted to see what I could do from Napa.

 

Okay, I write this as a preliminary right now as the amount of mileage I have put on since I cleared the code was only 26 miles:

I think in all of this bumping size up of tubing for my intake in quest of making a more MAF friendly URD intake for the blower (eg NOT triggering the dreaded glitch P0103 code some of us have been experiencing at random) I may have accidentally discovered a stealthy yet highly effective mod for the MAF itself.

I saved my OE sensor under the premise that some day I might need it for something or even a temporary replacement as I only replaced it because the URD intake set the code at some point when I was running a 2.5 pulley. While attempting to find some sort of physical calibration compromise for the new larger sized tubing I was running at the filter, MAF tube, and 45* elbow I am running, I enlarged the air sample tube from the OE sized 3/8 ID (.375) to 7/16 ID (.437) using a simple drill bit then cleaning it all up afterwards with some 100 grit sandpaper. This enlarges the MAF air sample tube by 16.66% from the previous size it was.

Of course the mod did not work in attempts to compensate for the 16.66% increase in intake tubing size, so I drove my sorry ass home with the jacked up AFR's at idle and while driving. It did seem to calm it down enough to stabilize AFR's a little admittedly, however, but still set lean codes anyways on the way home.

So once I got back I decided to revert to the 3" ID URD piping setup, more importantly the MAF tube which was originally part of that intake assembly, and decided I would keep the MAF that I currently had modded on the setup to see how it would run.

I was in for a treat. Not only is it peppier now, but smoother, and seemed to alleviate any sort of knock I had going on under boost. (Which was minute, but was present at very random during part throttle application). The only change I have noticed is AFR's at idle seem to be slightly richer when running the FPR mod, but even they cleaned up when observing the changes in LTFT's. STFT's remain around the same changes in percentage.

I write this more directed towards @White lightning boosted as I know he is having issues with his and has the code tripping him up as well. @Athlaos , this may be relevant for you as well if you have any current issues since I know you run a 2.0 pulley. @Roostfactor this may be worth investigating as you are one of the thread resident tinkerers similar to me. @BillDaCat8 if you are still having knock issues this post is for you.

If anyone else has this code which triggers at random or random knock going on while running the URD intake or even a 2.5 it may be worth spending some $40-$50 for a Denso 197-6030 MAF and modifying it as I described above. I will continue to drive the truck and report any other findings or abnormalities I may experience while doing so. As of right now, however, this has been a slam dunk mod for me which seems to have finally laid down my issues to rest.

Be aware this mod is not for every combination and if you dont have issues it may be best to perhaps leave things alone. Unless you like to mess with things, then it may be worth dropping some coin for a replacement MAF to play with.

Source for my idea, as well as reading literature: http://www.route66hotrodhigh.com/ModifyingMAF.html

 

That's pretty good. I always love it when a hack turns into something unexpectedly good. I'm not having the issues described, no noticeable knock, nor the code. But I will keep this in mind.

 

So, you’ve opened this area up?

 

Yes I did. Slightly, like you wouldn't even think it matters but evidently it does.

 

Hmmmm well $20 off ebay to order another MAF sensor, I'll give it a try.

 

Are you having issues with your running condition or getting the P0103 code Mr. Jeff?

 

Nope, but your write up makes sense in my mind. Allowing a little more airflow across the sensor should help out. Bumping up to the URD CAI from stock means a larger diameter piping for more air flow. Also looking into the larger throttle body and possibly porting out the blower to match the TB. If it doesn't work, oh well, I'm out $20 for now and I'll hold on to it if I ever bump up to a smaller pulley (or a snakebite upgrade )

 

@Torspd
@Lucario Runner

 

It seems to me like opening this hole up would have the sensor seeing slightly less air. Therefore leaning things out.

 

Found a new peak today. Temporarily hit WOT for a few seconds while driving this thing a few more miles. 42.7 lbs/min or 322.8 gm/s x 1.18= 380.90 crank HP as of current.

 

I dunno, different minds. IMO I would think it would allow more flow through it since a bigger hole would mean more air flowing through it than around it. Depends, I don't really know exactly what it reads, air velocity or actual air mass moving through it.

 

I'm gonna need to see a dyno brother. You can add math all day long but without an actual dyno sheet its all conjecture.