Sub enclosure that fits in the rear storage cubby without removing OEM panels?

Picked up a 2019 Cavalry Blue double cab 4x4 a few weeks ago, and so far I love it.

I ordered all the pieces to do the under $250 stereo upgrade I read about here over my Christmas break from work.

Any venders make a sub enclosure that fits in the rear storage Cubby without having to remove the OEM panels? Single 10"?

 

Welcome to TW

 

Don't know, but there is a 3rd gen mod thread just for you! Certainly will find answers there. Welcome aboard!!

 

Welcome!

 

Welcome, try looking in here for sub info.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/forums/audio-video.12/

 

Hey man welcome to tw. I have a jl audio sub (8 inch) and it does wonders. It’s pre powered and works great with the kickers and Subaru tweeters

 

Welcome to TW! Where in IL?

 

Welcome to TW...From Illinois as well, Quincy, how bout you?

 

Welcome!

 

Lemont IL here !

 

Right in the middle of the state, 20 miles from Peoria

 

Northwest IL is where I grew up in Stockton. We'd have play your town every once in a blue moon.

 

I ran across this the other day and you should be the guinea pig. I've never met a slim sub I ever liked but if one's out there, this might be it. Then again it could be a total dud. You would have to check the fit, I don't know the gen 3 dimensions.

8" https://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/car-audio-subwoofer_box-energy-ebxf20_5/
10" https://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/car-audio-subwoofer_box-energy-ebxf25_5/

 

I was searching for a different topic, found this and figured I could add two cents on the topic.

I admittedly do not have much experience at all with car audio, but I've worked as a sound guy for a good while and surely the physics don't really change.

Speakers [and good sound] is all about trade offs. When the emphasis is placed on cramming a driver into a box that will fit, you are likely sacrificing everything else. Without getting into a long winded post about it, keep in mind that more is not always better. I may suggest putting that money into higher quality 6x9s (or whatever fits) for the system instead of getting a subwoofer, as I seriously doubt the enclosure/driver you're looking for is going to sound good. Maybe it will, maybe it wont. But beware the marketing mumbo jumbo, look for real specs -- car audio is laughable in that realm.

Look for frequency response to the +/- 3 dB and sensitivity ratings should read 1W @ 1m = XdB

It takes double the amplifier power to get 3dB added output on the speaker end. 3dB SPL is not THAT much. So if speaker A is 3dB more sensitive than speaker B... Do the math. 10dB is roughly twice as loud (exponential curves). I'd cautiously wager that the same money could go toward better, WAY more efficient speakers and yield satisfactory results sans subwoofer. Arguably sounding better even if the sub option technically has more LF extension.

I could be way off 'bass' here but at least it could be food for thought. Last time I tried to help a friend tune his dash/sub amp setup I quickly became... underwhelmed with the lack of tweakability of the units "DSP", to the point where the jumps between settings were so big you could almost randomly adjust them and get about the same result. It could have sounded better, sure, but the control simply wasn't there. I have a hunch your unit could be similar. But, get a better stand-alone speaker and crossover points are done for you by actual engineers.

 

JL makes a stealbox for the back bin. It's pretty expensive but they are known for quality.

http://www.jlaudio.com/car-audio-stealthbox-toyota-tacoma

 

The only issue I have with this is that these days it's just not true if you listen to modern music. The spectrum they use now is literally stacked so that it plays to the capability of your sound system. The greater your spectrum, the more you hear, and that includes audio goodies on both the low and high end of the audible spectrum. Adding LF is generally the most satisfying augment to a sound system these days just because of how music, and how it's mastered has changed.

It's the same reason we all wanted HIFI back in the analog days. There was just more to hear if your system was capable. Now that digital storage is cheap there's much more dense bitstreams to decode and many even prefer lossless digital formats that extend deep into the lower frequencies. I just don't agree that louder 50-20K is as satisfying as even 30-20K at a few less dB. Good luck finding a car door speaker that can handily reproduce 50Hz too.

 

I mean, I hear you. My life revolves around electronic music and sound systems. It's my job.

 

Have a 2009, not sure if the storage space is the same. I wanted an upgrade to sound but was not worried about having the best system on the road. If you just want to fill in the bass cleanly, I've been very happy with this all in one:

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_777B8PTD/Sound-Ordnance-B-8PTD.html

This isn't going to perform like a real enclosure with separate amp, but it adds good clear low tones... To a point. It's an easy install.

I also did new good quality 6x9 components in the doors (did the rears too, DC) and new tweeters powered by amps with line level inputs and crossovers all fed by the factory stereo. It was a HUGE improvement. I've done higher end full systems in the past that were better, but those were break in bait, and this works for me. From the outside, you see nothing but a factory head unit. From the inside, damn solid (though not amazing) sound.

Best,
Buggsy

 

I am also looking for a sub enclosure that fits the OEM cubby.
It seems these may fit:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JQTU3SA/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_9?smid=A1737BUG3HBKXO&psc=1

Or these after removing the plastic:


https://www.thesubboxshop.com/Toyota-Tacoma-Double-Cab-Subwoofer-Box-p/tacomadc16single.htm

https://*********.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/Toyota-Tacoma-Subwoofer-Box.jpg

https://*********.com/shop/toyota-t...ta-tacoma-double-cab-subwoofer-box-enclosure/

This is my current sub I have to potentially carry over from my previous vehicle. Can I use this some how?






Is there any sub enclosure that this old school Type R 10'' would fit in, understanding I would have to remove the OEM plastic?

Which sub enclosure works best if went the route of trying to stay in the OEM plastic cubby? And then what Sub?

 

did you ever end up choosing one of those options and if so did it work?