Warn Winch cab switch install question

I picked up a winch cab switch install kit a while back and finally go around to installing it. The problem is that the instructions that come with the kit are not accurate to my setup. I will upload a picture of the two (how I have mine wired) and the instructions/diagram that came with the kit.

The Dash Rocker Switch kit number is

$49 WARN 99897 Lighted Dash Rocker Switch Kit , Black

Warn 99897

I also have a warn power interrupt (

$97 WARN 62132 Power Interrupt Kit with Battery Lead, Hardware, Solenoid, Switch and Wiring

Part 62132) that i installed a while back and its been working great.

I am connecting it to the Warn Contractor pack

$170 WARN 81400 12V Contractor

solenoid Part#81400 (that is the part number that was on the inside of the enclosed solenoid pack. I had to remove the wires from the original plug that was on the outside of it to get it configured below)

The grey wire #7 shows it connecting on the solenoid that connects to ground. That connection on my pack does not go directly to the battery and the connector is too small for any of the posts.




Question #1.
Is this really supposed to be ground to the battery or is it intended to be grounded to the frame? (or something else?)
* note the grey wire also eventually connects to the switch in the cab as well.

Question #2

Is the red wire that they show connecting to the ignition really just for the led?
If so can I just connect it to the power interrupt switch that is already in the cab? (I really don't care if the light comes on until power is turned on to the winch.)

Any help would be great.

If you need more pictures of the actual setup let me know I can add them.

 

Ok.. I diddled with a few diagrams and tried to lay it out a little better... ... ignore it if its not clear. (I still have the same questions)

The "Original Config" is how the switch that came with the contractor pack was originally configured (as a whole solenoid unit with the plug in the top)




What do I connect the Gray wire to, is it just a ground wire?
Does everything else look appropriate?

(The goal was to have a cutoff switch and an in-out switch in the cab)

 

It looks like the grey wire is ground.

That wiring diagram is the worst. Diagrams should not be 3D.
Post a better picture of the diagram with no writing on it (or a link to the .PDF) then I could tell you what goes where.

 

I agree. I had to dig around warn we site and Google to find those I then squashed them together and put how I currently have it wired. Each diagram had numbers and letters like A1, F2 or #1, #2, and a few were listed with negative, ground, positive, others were color coded (greeng blue yellow) some had a combo.

I will see what I can find or I can redraw it.

for now, I did not find an online version of the switch kit. so the picture at the top is what I have.

here are the other two originals.

Warn winch installation:
https://www.warn.com/Attachment/DownloadFile?downloadId=743
Original link to the manual (https://www.warn.com/95xp-winch-68500) it auto downloads when you click "Preminum Install Guide"

Warn Power Interupt guide:
https://www.gowarn.com/aux_incl/pdf.ashx?pdf=WAR_62132_INS_1.pdf&line=WAR

here is a pic of how it was originally wired, ( I added color so you could see which wires were going where)
* red which was disconnected in the photo, but it goes to the power interrupt
* negative is only from the winch to battery.
* The small black wire is grounded to the chassy)
* The other wires in the image (green, black, gray) are for the new switch.

 

Your first picture with the diagram from Warn, can you post a picture with just that diagram?

 

The first picture appears to show the gray wire going to the (-) terminal of the battery via the "A" post on the

$170 WARN 81400 12V Contractor

WARN 81400 Contactor. With that logic a good chassis ground should work just fine. With emphasis on good, might want to ohm your chosen ground point out first. Just to make sure its actually conductive all the way back to the battery. Other than that I cant see any problems

P.s. It's Contactor not Contractor, despite what Amazon says haha

 

Hopefully my answer above made sense.

This is a really bad picture, but seems to backup your Red wire theory as well.

 

Sorry, not trying to be dense. I linked the ones above I used. The last one with the switch diagram is the picture above. Those are all I have.

Here is a blank one with some color.


Here is how I have it wired


attachment of the original diagram/picture by itself also.

 

Yea. The more I look at it the more I think its a ground as well.

Do you think it would cause a short if I connected the original switch inside the box as well? I'd like to have a switch fail option.

 

I found wiring for the Provantage 3500. Looking at it now.

 

The gray wire goes to the same post that the cable from the negative terminal of the battery goes to. Maybe it's for switch illumination/indicator?

 

A switch fail option? What do you mean by that?

 

I think he means that if one switch dies, he has a backup.

 

Yea, a buddy reminded me that since the majority of the time you end up out attaching the winch it would be good to have that connection. Id still like to be able to use the normal hand held. Id also like to be able to sit in the cab and use the switch. (Sort of an either or function)

 

I dont use Warn winches, so Im not sure.. But - isnt that the point of the round 7-pin connector? Isnt that where the Warn remote gets plugged in? I would assume that all the required connections are already made under the heat shrink between the contactor side of the harness and the cab switch side.

In other words you plug the remote into that 7-pin plug and then you can use either the remote or the in cab switch to operate the contactor

 

That's how I thought it worked. You use the switch in the cab of the truck and if you need to, use an external remote switch. It's not for a backup, just convenience.

 

Me too but the kit requires disconecting a few wires that i believe are needed. Its ok, at this point i found out enough to make we rethink it.

 

Reply from another forum...

 

maybe this will help you, i can expand upon how i worked around the new 5 wire system. That post above is correct, the old 3 wire was simpler but the 5 wire adds in redundancy of isolating the ground as well as the power when using the remote. Failure is unlikely, so I defeated that to go back to the old 3 wire setup. This was my controller setup on the 9.5 xps





Open up the pack and splice together the brown and black wires. Tap into the positive and winch in/out wires, then you only need to run 3 wires into the cab


I have an isolation switch along with a winch in/out switch momentary in the cab.


A schematic of my setup


WIth this setup the stock plug and remote still works as it should. If you want to keep the 5 wire setup, simply run two extra wires into the cab and use that on the other pole to switch the negative (ground) side of the solenoid.

 

Where did the switch panel in the ceiling come from? Did you modify it or is that a vendor who supplies the panel that the switches go into? I might have missed that point. If I did, apologies.