Opposite from most, 3.4 to 2.7 or 22re?

No it has a different crank, bigger rod bearings, bigger rods, bigger wrist pins, piston skirt oilers, larger headbolts...

 

Ok, just means I'm that much more 'merc educated thank you. Their are several kubota salvage yards online and a few potential v2403's. My understanding for the adaptor kits is that all 03 series kubota engines work for the kits? I know L4330, 4630, 5030, M5040 and M5140 tractors have 2203 and 2403 engines. A couple of those tractors are listed on the salvage sites.

 

Listed.., but are the engines there

 

I apologize for the time lapse, been covered up at work more than usual for this time of year.

Several of the tractors listed have engines intact, but I haven’t contacted to verify run/ no run etc.

Had some time today to top off the rad (half gallon low which of course would cause drastic temp flux) start up and verify no compression in the rad. No apparent coolant smoke or smell from exhaust, runs smooth and pulls good.

The problem is about a pint of coolant leaves the system every 10 or 20 miles it seems, and it doesn’t appear to be hitting the ground.....That being said, this engine is FAR from being leak free. It leaks oil and I’m imagining some degree of coolant too. I would just think with that much coolant leaving the system in a short time frame some would be on the ground after sitting for a period of time.

So I guess HG/ cracked head is still possible even running strong and smoke free, but seems unlikely with the amount it’s losing? I noticed when I changed coolant earlier this year the old coolant looked like it had stop leak of some kind. The 4 years we drove the truck prior to that we never had a single issue till I drained the *stop leak laced* coolant.

Long story short I love the truck but it is a <$3k DD with 270k and rust. Are *all* stop leak products ill advised? I have Bar’s aluminum based stuff but I wanted to see what ya’ll think before I put any in the truck. A motor swap is appealing if the HG or cracked head was unavoidable, but if I can continue to DD the truck as is it sure would save money.

 

Have you done the basics?

Compression and leakdown tests?

Cooling system pressure test?

 

Pressurized the cooling system same day I changed coolant. It lost pressure in a matter of 5 minutes. You could hear tiny bits of gurgling somewhere around the back of the valley.

I haven’t made the time yet to leak down (would advance/ o Reilly have one to rent?) or check compression. I know a leak down test can be often more telltale than only checking compression.

 

I'd focus on finding / fixing that before taking a next step.

 

Thanks I'll see what I can find with it.

 

If you spend the money, time, and effort of swapping a diesel into that thing, then your an absolute moron. Truth hurts.

 

No problem with admitting you're right there.

 

Not if he likes tge truck and has some personal attachment to it. Depending on the extent of it rust can be fixed. Did por-15 on mine not too ling ago. Made me much happier with the truck.