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Questions Wiring Kicker Key Amp

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by Brewnmn, Dec 25, 2018.

  1. Dec 25, 2018 at 9:04 AM
    #1
    Brewnmn

    Brewnmn [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I have a 2014 Regular Cab w/ the basic Entune Head unit. 1 woofer and 1 tweeter in each of the 2 doors.
    My plan is to install the Key in bi-amp mode with a new component set excluding the crossovers based on recommendations from @destin_meeks over at the $250 thread.
    Am I correct assuming that there are only 4 speaker wires in the rear plug of the HU
    (Front L & R pos/neg) on the Regular Cabs?
    If so, the Key has 4 RCA plugs on the input harness and the instructions say to cut them off for high level input which leaves me with 8 wires total.
    Can someone tell me where each of my 4 wires should be spliced to on the Key harness?
    Thanks in advance.

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  2. Dec 25, 2018 at 12:39 PM
    #2
    dolbytone

    dolbytone Well-Known Member

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    I believe you don't use the rear input if you are going to bi-amp using the Key. Use L/R front and check dip switch settings on the unit to set it up for bi-amp. Watch the following video. I don't know much about this amp so setting crossover frequency isn't something I can explain right now. Make sure it's possible to get the right settings before diving in.

    https://youtu.be/ubVgDqX0jwI
     
  3. Dec 26, 2018 at 10:28 AM
    #3
    destin_meeks

    destin_meeks I used to fix people's crappy stereos

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    The post above is correct that you only use the front inputs on the Key. Ensure your dip switch for Bi-Amp is on, and I would leave the crossover dips set to Off, unless you are adding a subwoofer.

    To run the door speakers actively crossed over as you intend to, be aware you will have to run an additional set of speaker wire into each door. The tweeter can use the factory wiring, and then run new 18awg (or whatever you have already) from the Key's location, through the wiring boot (please don't ghetto-rig the wiring outside of the boot like so many do) and to the new woofer.
     
  4. Dec 26, 2018 at 4:22 PM
    #4
    Brewnmn

    Brewnmn [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Good to know on using the existing wire for the tweeters. My plan was to run two new sets to each door but I’ll just run the one of 18awg. Will for sure be running it through the boots.

    What I’m still lost on is where the Front L&R pos & neg from the head unit go to on the Key input side. The L&R for Amp1 & Amp2 and not knowing which is pos or neg has me stumped.


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  5. Dec 26, 2018 at 4:33 PM
    #5
    destin_meeks

    destin_meeks I used to fix people's crappy stereos

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    They will go to amp 1 (front) and they will match the standard wiring colors on the included harness with the Key

    (Standard colors being
    Front left - white
    Front right - grey
    Rear left - green
    Rear right - purple

    All positives are solid, all neg are black striped)
     
  6. Dec 26, 2018 at 5:27 PM
    #6
    Brewnmn

    Brewnmn [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Got it now...thanks.
    For the output side 12v power I assume I should tap the Pin ‘C’ 12v Ignition Wire?
    How about the Remote Turn On? Does it even need to be connected?
     
  7. Dec 26, 2018 at 6:57 PM
    #7
    destin_meeks

    destin_meeks I used to fix people's crappy stereos

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    I would just get power, ground, and remote from the radio’s power and ground, and power antenna. I have done over a dozen Key’s in this manner with no issues.
     
  8. Dec 27, 2018 at 6:36 AM
    #8
    ToyTacoTruck

    ToyTacoTruck Well-Known Member

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    The Entune Base/Plus HUs do not have antenna power/pinned for remote turn on. I used Key amp's auto-on function and it works fine - make sure DIPs properly set and blue wire out of amp stays unconnected/protected (since it will have 12v power when amp on). If there is another/better way for amp turnon with base/plus HU then I would like to know as well. Thanks.
     
  9. Dec 27, 2018 at 11:31 AM
    #9
    Brewnmn

    Brewnmn [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the help destin_meeks.
     
    destin_meeks likes this.
  10. Apr 16, 2019 at 2:56 PM
    #10
    Brewnmn

    Brewnmn [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Finally got my harness for the Key put together using the Metra adapters. The Key is installed behind the head unit (Used Velcro) and wired up to new speaker wires going to the doors. Still need to install deadening and speakers.

    Got a couple of questions about the Key’s settings.
    I wired the Key’s power wires to the constant 12 volt going to the head unit. Should I have it set to 12V or DC?
    I have Fader set to off. Pretty sure this is set correct for only two mids and two tweeters up front.
    I have compression off but I’m not really sure if it should be on or off?

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  11. Apr 16, 2019 at 4:36 PM
    #11
    destin_meeks

    destin_meeks I used to fix people's crappy stereos

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    If you’re using the Key’s blue wire, you want it set to 12v
    You want fader off
    You probably want compressor off
    You want bi amp on.
    You want time delay and EQ enabled
    You probably want the crossover set to either 60hz or 80hz depending on if you have a sub, or off if you don’t have a sub
     
  12. Apr 19, 2019 at 5:15 PM
    #12
    Brewnmn

    Brewnmn [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for all of advice and wiring help destin-meeks! Running the Key active with Morel Maximo Ultra 602 components sounds amazing in my Regular Cab. I definitely won’t be needing a sub, the bass is unbelievable. I deadened the inner and outer door skins with Noico and used the Road Kill Fast Rings which definitely contributed to the sound quality.
     
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  13. Apr 22, 2019 at 5:28 PM
    #13
    hemitruk

    hemitruk Old man , young boi truk

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    Agree with fast ring .Doors dampened and covered with ensolite and added the rings noticed difference even with panels off . When dustin meeks said it helps I was sold . Ordered and installed :thumbsup:
     
  14. Apr 22, 2019 at 5:33 PM
    #14
    destin_meeks

    destin_meeks I used to fix people's crappy stereos

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    Some people try to say they don’t work, but the proof is in the pudding! I use all sorts of products on a daily basis and when I find something that works, I keep using it!
     
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  15. Jan 17, 2020 at 1:59 PM
    #15
    Yann

    Yann Well-Known Member

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    A/C Drain Pro Grille Intermittent Wipers Blacked out Wheels Blacked out Badges Gasshole Nfab Predator Bars Tweeter Upgrade Kicker Upgrade Morimoto Amber LED Fog Lights Meso fuse box Stage 1 taillights
    Quick question for you. I followed https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/tpp4s-no-nonsense-guide-to-kicker-key-t-harness-16-19.642415/ to make my harness. Should I use these settings? I have a non jbl system and I don't have a sub.
     
  16. Jan 17, 2020 at 2:38 PM
    #16
    destin_meeks

    destin_meeks I used to fix people's crappy stereos

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    Yann[QUOTED] likes this.
  17. Jan 17, 2020 at 2:54 PM
    #17
    Yann

    Yann Well-Known Member

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    Thank you
     
  18. Jan 25, 2020 at 4:43 PM
    #18
    JonWB

    JonWB Well-Known Member

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    I'm doing the install today. I just turned the truck on for a function check, and I'm getting a static hiss out of all of the speakers with the radio off. Where do I even start with this one? Let me know which details you need.

    Wired in Bi-Amp, Bi-amp is on.
    Gains are all down.

    Edit: troubleshooting

    The more testing I do, the more confused I get.

    I put the Subaru tweeters back in, disconnected the amp, and replugged the HU to stock wiring. There is no hiss when the radio is off. There is a quiet hiss on tweeters and woofers when the music is on pause. (I believe this is normal)

    In this configuration, I plugged one of my new tweeters in, and it hisses very slightly when the music is off. (amp is still disconnected) As far as I can tell, the woofers and other Subaru tweeter is quiet, but I can't get my ear near as close to the Subaru tweeter when plugged in.

    I plugged the amp back in and put both Subaru tweeters in. The tweeters and the woofers hiss when the music is off.

    If it's an issue with the amp or wiring harness, I don't understand why I can hear a hiss from the new tweeter even when the amp and harness is disconnected. (Maybe this is normal?)
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2020

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