For those who have done the big 3/4...

I'm a little helpless finding out where the wires hook up to. I know it's
bat + to alt +,
bat - to chassis,
engine block to chassis, and alt - to bat - (big 4)

With that being said, I'm a little nervous I'll hook up the wires to the wrong nut.

Pictures are worth a thousand words, thanks again.

 

The image I added is of my ho alternator.

Red box is where I did my alternator chassis to battery negative and vehicle chassis.

The yellow box is the positive output.

 

Did you fuse the alt + to bat + wire?

 

I would not use a conventional fuse [Way to much current ] fuse would be huge but instead I would install what is called a fusible link in the B + wire that is rated for the max output of the alternator This will prevent total melt down in case of short or reversed polarity.

 

Which bolts should I hook up the engine block to chassis wire to? Currently using the bat - chassis bolt and an engine bolt, but not the stock grounding bolt...

 

Shouldn't matter any solid connection from engine to frame will suffice I always use at least a AWG #4 wire.

 

It's working fine, I was a little nervous about setting off some sensors but everything seems to be in working order. Idle RPM's have dropped too, is that normal? I'm using 0 gauge for all my wires.

 

Shouldn't have any censor issues, and changing out wire shouldn't have any bearing on your idle RPM. With that said I'm sure there is some one that can postulate some rational, I know i can but K.I.S.S

 

I noticed a slight drop in Idle RPM last time I had the battery disconnected as well. Possible that disconnecting the bat re-sets something in the engine management software?

 

I think your right, it returned to normal after a couple days

 

@jad3d what HO alternator you got?

 

Good reminder that I should do the big 3. Be sure to add some OFC 4awg to my next Knukonceptz order.

 

what's up @jerzsubbie

Thanks for the heads up on Knukonceptz
I like what I have read about the OFC wire.
Curious why you say 4 Gauge? Why not bigger wire? Is it due to the tight squeeze and not much room with the alt - fuse box - battery connections? About to order all my parts (wire, lugs, crimper) for the big 3 and still haven't determined the gauge. I want the smallest gauge I can. But also think I should use the same gauge throughout, so if I have to use 4 gauge in the fusebox, I think I'll go 4 all around. I'll be ordering a little extra for my battery to aux fuse panel too.

 

While using 0/1 would in theory be better, I don’t plan on running a dual battery, HO alternator, or really high powered amps so I don’t think any benefit would be realized. I may be wrong, but this is my understanding from when I was into SPL 15yr ago.

Additionally, Knukonceptz OFC wire is such high quality, that it actually performs better than a size up of some competitors. Ex 4awg outperforms competitors’ 0/1 awg.

So Knukonceptz is a little more than most others but still cheaper than some and performs better than all for the price. I’ve been using and recommending their products for 15yr.

 

A proper big 3 won’t have any affect on sensors or engine idle etc. Disconnecting the battery resets the computer which can change idle temporarily, but in theory you shouldn’t notice any change from the big 3 unless you already added an audio system or some kind of aftermarket electrical load that exceeds factory charging/grounding capacity.