Another starter thread

I didn’t really want to thread jack the other user who is having starter issues so here we are.

Yesterday I got into the truck to crank it. Loud clank-like pop happened and the truck didn’t crank. Anyway... here is a picture of what happened. The bendix(I think) just broke completely free and got shredded. I went to O’Reilly to get another starter. Replaced it. Then, when trying to crank I would get a whirring noise for like 2 seconds before the starter engaged the flywheel... followed by a horrible clanking grinding start. Buddies dad said to go get another starter bc the new one was bad. Swapped the starter for another new one.... again I have the same symptoms.

Note: prior to installing the first new starter I removed the debris cover on the flywheel and got a ton of metal out. It’s clean in there now. The flywheel is missing a tooth here and there. I do t think the flywheel is my issue here though.

Is it possible or even halfway likely that I got 2 bad starters from O’Reilly? I got pissed after the second new starter and just called the delearship and ordered an OEM one(comes in Wednesday morning). What do y’all think might be my issue?

 

How much for the oem if you don’t mind me asking? I don’t need one but it’s 15 years old. Time to replace it I think.

 

Paying $230 at pickup. I think it’s a fair-ish price. The O’Reilly one was like $170. The install price isn’t terrible at $115 but I’m going to bring it home and do it myself.

 

I hope that’s your problem. I wonder if something is hindering your flywheel from turning freely hence the broken teeth?

 

Im way out of my league with this stuff. I can take anything apart and put it back together, but mechanical diagnosis is t my thing. Im a carpenter.

The flywheel will turn over with a screwdriver. There is some resistance to this which I think seems right. I think the original busted starter caused the teeth to break. Seem right or wrong?

 

whirring generally means the starter is not engaging with the flywheel. Maybe you got a bad starter? Either that or your flywheel is missing teeth.

 

Well it’s whirring for like 2 seconds. Seems like it’s building up some good spin and then slamming into the flywheel(well, flexplate for those that care to be term specific). 2 starters in a row have done this same thing.

So, turn key.... whirling noise.... crash bang clang.... crank.

My main concern right now is that something other than a bad starter is causing this behavior. I don’t want to put a brand new OEM starter in the truck and have it ground up by something. The flexplate is missing a couple teeth As mentioned in original post but it’s very very few and they are just single teeth missing and are spaced out around the wheel.

 

the solinoid should pull the bendix in first and as the bendix is pulled in the starter should spin. It is a mechanical contact.

 

I have no experience with O'Reilly starters, only Advance which sells Nippondenso starters. What brand is yours? The behavior of your starter is not normal. Did you make sure to mount it completely flush?

 

Anyone else notice this? Why would that portion have impact marks? the teeth should have impact marks not the actual center portion unless something is severely missaligned. This would explain the whirring. The starter coming out bumping against the flexplate with the center edge of the shaft then as it spools up it slightly shifts to the side and slams the teeth in. I would check and make sure your flexplate isn't warped. Just an idea...

 

You have more problems then just the starter

Looks like the missing teeth and quite a few are damaged enough the starter drive will not engage in the correct fashion.

hence the spin bang bang crank

 

My guess on why that part of it is damaged is from the instance that it snapped out of the original starter. When I dropped that starter out of the truck it came off in 2 pieces.

 

There are very few teeth missing though. Would that really cause issues this dramatic? The flexplate seems like it’s in good shape when viewed from the debris cover. I haven’t dropped the transmission yet bc that may be a little out of my league and I’m trying to avoid it. If it’s highly recommended I guess I will watch timmahs video and get with it. What do you think?

 

Installing a nice new starter will not cure the problem if there are missing or damaged teeth on the flex plate. I would be absolutely sure the flex plate is not damaged or you will only ruin your new starter. It may not happen immediately, but as soon as the starter tries to engage in the damaged area, well, you know what will happen.

 

I can only go by your description .

I am guessing you did not check either of the starters before installing .

Quite possible to have received 2 bad starters these days

 

Good news.... I had received 2 bad starters in a row from Oreilly. They did refund my money. The Toyota starter worked like a charm. I still have some grinding, but at least I have a good starter now.

Bad news... I had to order a new flex plate and will be changing it starting today. I am having a hard time finding a rear main seal on the orielly website. Can someone link me the product I need for my 2001 Toyota Tacoma 3.4L automatic? preferably from O'Reilly since they're in walking distance of my house.

 

Glad you got it sorted out

 

Well, the transmission really wasn't all that bad to unbolt and get out of the way. I'll throw the new flex plate on tomorrow and see how it goes reassembling everything. I also have a couple pictures I want to snap and share at some point. I didn't get around to taking them earlier. The starter at some point ate into the bell housing at little. This is probably from the instance that the bendix broke off and made that horrible pop I heard a couple of days ago while trying to crank up.

Honestly the flex plate was in much better shape than I thought. I'll share those picture tomorrow.

 

Hi I didn’t see anyone mention that sometimes starters need to be shimmed... Its important to check how well a new starter gear mates with its partner. Good news on the OEM!

 

Without a transfer case hanging on the transmission it is pretty easy