2019 Tacoma Morel Build

Tossed a pair of Morel Virtus 602 Components in the front. MUCH better. They're louder, more crisp, all while maintaining that warm Morel signature sound. I can now say my system becomes live enough for my taste. Whenever this Bluetooth adapter arrives for the D-6.1200, it will be the cherry on the top. I don't know if any of you are looking at the Virtus's but GET THEM if you are.

 

Fwiw, I got my 4.800 wired up today and it is plenty loud without me even starting to tune it. I can comfortably listen with the volume at 18

 

What gauge wire?

 

I ran 12g to my speakers but only because that is what I had on hand. I would have preferred 14.

For power I ran a 2 gauge to a splitter and 4 gauge to my amps

For the speaker level out of the head unit, it was 18 gauge speedwire

I'm really wishing I had got the 6-channel so I could get rid of these passive crossovers.

 

I ran a full active system in one of my cars, I used a JBL gtx47 active crossover, 2 jbl gtq200 (50x4) amps and 2 gts50 (25x2) and a gts300 (150x2). It sounded great, but getting 5 amps and 14 channels synced up was a pain in the ass.

The gtx47 is one hell of a piece of equipment. 4 channels in, 14 out. each had its own levels, crossovers, boosts, phase switches.

 

I went fully active in my build using the 8 channel JL audio VXI & a JL XD Mono amp for the sub. My system is running a total of 6 audio output channels with only two amps. I didn't have to deal with any passive crossovers or caps in this build since the VXI has all these functions.

Here's my build.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/active-system-w-complete-soundproofing-jbl-tear-out.567718/

 

Looks nice, you had the advantage of not 1995 car audio tech I wish I was as big into car audio and had the same disposable income that I did in the late 90s, But, kids and a house take priority now, so I have to fit in when I can. Would love to go full active with my current setup, but for now, its just a small 4 channel amp running 3 way components in the front and coax in the rear.

Here is my setup currently
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rd-gen-3-way-system-build.576729/

Eventually going to add a small subwoofer, not sure what one yet, but just something small.

 

Yeah it's nice that there are a lot of "all in one" packages now with DSP and crossovers built into the amp itself. There just isn't enough room in these trucks unless you are ready to sacrifice all interior storage.

 

Thats why I went with the audio control ACM amp, its tiny, I can fit it behind the dash to power the speakers (above the glove box). Then when I decide on a subwoofer, im going to just grab a powered slim to fit under my seats.

I had orignally picked out a nice 6 channel, but it was too big and I didnt want to loose any space behind my seats or under the rear seats.... I kinda miss having a actual trunk.

 

Out of curiosity, what's your issue with the crossovers?

 

I'm just wishing I had more control over the tweeters and woofers individually up front. It isn't a huge deal but I'd like to be able to tweak them a little more than I can right now.

An added bonus would be I don't have to stash 2 big crossovers behind the dash.

 

A little vague. I'm guessing you want more highs or something? I've never met a set of components that didn't need the HF output attenuated down at least -3dB. Where is yours set?

I've run into a few situations where there was something really weird with the horn on a passive speaker and most of the time it's an aiming issue, phasing, or something has gotten in front of it. I know this isn't likely to happen in a vehicle, it would have to be something like the mount failed, or the mounting angle has moved (pod mount). It's never been the case that I couldn't find something though. Component sets are designed to match well, just like two/three-way speakers, the only variable is placement. You might be able to find something if you dig.

I can't think of an inherent advantage with bi/tri amp other than the ability to use more power except to add delay so you can time align the HF and LF, which makes for a more seamless crossover point. If you have enough control over the EQ most issues can be remedied, and mostly, passive systems fall into place more easily.

 

Mine are set to 0 right now - I can try to set to -3. And it is possible that it is just my speakers but the tweeters can be a little harsh. I'm not sure how to describe it.

 

Yeah, -3dB will soften them a little. Once HF and LF are balanced, try to tune out anything that hurts. Mine were really hot at 5KHz when I put them in. I'm guessing you don't have an RTA, which would make the process super easy. Tuning by ear is just much slower and more difficult.

 

Just a little update. I had a Kenwood DDX9905S installed with a Maestro RR. If anyone is familiar, it has widgets on the home screen. Now my issue is the controls on the left hand side of the steering wheel. The volume adjusts as it should but what should change songs (Up/Down) doesn't. It only cycles through widgets on the home screen. Is this how it was intended to work or was it just setup incorrectly?