Wyoming B.S. Thread

I bought a Milwaukee battery one this year. Love it, makes greasing a breeze. It helped that I run Milwaukee tools and the battery investment was already there though I guess

 

Get the 20v dewalt. Way better and they r phasing our the 18v

 

You aren't supposed to use moly lube in ujoints though. Causes the surfaces to wipe across the needle bearings and flat spot them rather than let them roll and do their job

@turbodb, to answer your question. I have 3 grease guns all with different greases in the

 

How so? Moly is less tacky then that red shit

 

I really like this idea. This unit is kind of pricey but I can see the value. And wow, a 4' hose would be awesome.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...tteries-Charger-Hard-Case-2646-21CT/204064022

I'm with Ben, hand held grease guns are a pain in the ass to use sometimes. I am not with Ben in not doing the necessary maintenanace in a timely manor because of that pita factor.

 

I don't care if you use red and tacky or not but if you look in your manual it specs non moly infused for the joints. In fact the only thing that requests it is your slip yoke because telescoping sliding motion is what it does. It's much like using GL5 in your trans it is too slippery. You'll just slowly flat spot the needles and put slop in your joint. The needles are supposed to have that taciness so they move along with the shaft in the joint. This is not something I came up with, you can look it up if you don't believe me or your shop/owners manual.

 

Cool good to know.

 

The one I nabbed didn't have a case, battery or charger. Think it was like $130? You can buy just the flexible hose for any of the regular grease guns for a cheaper fix, that will make greasing easier too.

Edit:

$14 Lumax LX-1208-G 36" Thermoplastic Grease Hose, 4500 PSI (310 Bar) 1/8" NPT Threads. Fully Bonded Construction to Maximize Kink Resistance and Minimize Bend Radius

https://www.amazon.com/Lumax-LX-120...ocphy=9029312&hvtargid=pla-568351618942&psc=1

Edit2: also make a M12 version. Which would probably do fine if your just doing your truck. Then you could buy the M12 ratchet which is super handy.


https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-24...ocphy=9029312&hvtargid=pla-571578816398&psc=1

 

Hey guys, I'm planning a trip up to the Jackson hole area this summer. My brother and I both have tacomas and would like to hit a couple trails, as well as some fishing spots. We've never been up there, well, I did a scout trip up to Yellowstone but that was 15 years ago so I don't remember much. We'll be staying in the Driggs Idaho area for 4-5 days and one day we're planning on going up to Yellowstone with the family to see what they have up there. Any info would be awesome, nothing too crazy because we'll still need to drive home. Thanks for your time and info!

 

Speaking of supras.

https://jalopnik.com/the-1994-toyota-supra-that-sold-for-121-000-on-bring-a-1831800363

 

lol wtf.

 

Right. Wow talk about a markup

 

total publicity stunt.

Can't believe they did that though. Doubt they can even get their money back..although maybe. Is very low miles.

Also god damn i hate Bring a Trailer..

 

I’ve gone all in on the

$124 Milwaukee M18 Cordless Lithium-Ion 6-1/2" Circular Saw - 2630-20 - ( MILWAUKEE ) - BARE TOOL

Milwaukee M18 bandwagon, have like 5 of the impact guns and maybe 12 of the other tools, a couple of m12 ratchets. Use to be a diehard Makita LXT loyalist, but for the price and quality, no one is doing it better than Milwaukee right now.

 

Agreed, ditched my makitas this past year. They were prob 10 years old too.

 

If it is a big dealership it'll work out fine and one of the salespeople or the GM or something will buy it after someone gets screamed at for being so stupid as to purchase it as marketing materials. My job works closely with dealerships, this kinda stuff was out of someone's pocket there is no way this was approved in any capacity by Toyota.

 

He has a fj80 in there right now and a brand new 2019 landcruiser for like 85k lol. Still changes full synthetic oil for cheap thankfully

 

Two steps forward, one step back today.

When at first you don't succeed... and then take a step forward. (thanks @Speedytech7)

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Then, take an easy step forward. (thanks @Digiratus!)

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.... and then one step back. Apparently the bed rack is stronger than the bed. That's a vertical crack in the top rail through the hole, and a horizontal crack about 2-3" long along the rail edge - like the whole thing was pulled inwards (well, clearly it was...)

Anyone else have any issues like this? Curious for ideas on how to prevent in the future... for now, I think some sheet metal welding is in store, then some sort of reinforcement along the back?

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Good stuff. Welcome to beating on your shit all the time life haha

 

I can't tell if that's a sarcastic thanks or not haha. Hope it all goes together smoothly again though As for the crack, I've never seen one crack there before. My bed bars help true up my bedsides, in fact without them the bedsides aren't quite vertical. But I don't know how you'd get a vertical tear like that. I don't see any reason you can't just drill the end of the crack and weld it. I do use 3/16 plates behind those rails where my bolts go through to avoid pinpointed stress.