Can I repurpose my old gear into a new build and need other help

I am attempting a new build but had a ton of questions. I've read just about every post on this audio forum and it has given me the confidence to attempt a build. I do have some experience, but, I had a number of questions that I was hoping I could get direction on. My goals: Concealed and the cheapest build that is still done right.

This is my gear I was able to pull out of my trade-in (or a few cars ago) when buying my '18 DCSB OR:





My questions in no particular order:

1. With my Alpine M850 (to run a future sub) and JL JX 400 (6.75 Alpine Rs), what gauge power wire do I need to run from the battery? Is 4 gauge sufficient? If 2 gauge or 0/1 is needed - what kit? (no CCA)

2. Is there anyway to fit the Type R 10'' sub in this truck while maintaining function of the back seats? Can a custom box from Marv or elsewhere even accomplish this? Is custom going to be cheaper than simply buying a prefab enclosure and new sub? Is trying to save this sub even worth it (its ten or so years old)?

3. If I do go new sub, what sub/enclosure would work well with the Alpine M850 amp that I could ideally install somewhat easily. I'd prefer to keep all plastic panels if possible.

4. My Type R 6.75 have weird dimples or looked like it was pushed in a little causing a sleight crimple on the nipple of the speaker cone. Is this concerning enough to get new speakers? I feel keeping these would save me a decent amount of money. Are these speakers still any good? They are 10 years old I think. Has speaker technology over shot these to significant degree?

5. This one perplexes me: Where do I get all the little installation plugs, crimps, connectors, rings, ferrules ect, outside of an amp kit? I added a bunch of these connectors, ect and what nots, along with crimp and ferrule tools, ect into my Amazon cart, and wow does the cost really add up. I will also end up with a ton of extras because they all seem to come in 20 or 100 packs. When I was in high school decades ago I just cheaped out and used a cheap amp kit, and did not use any connectors, ferrules, ect and just jammed raw wires in set screws and soldered connections and covered with electrical tape. Is there a balance between my high school style job and doing it over-the-top right to keep costs at bay, but still solid?

6. This may be my most important question: I have limited tools, (no wood working tools) how do I create an amp rack? I may put the JL JX400 under the driver seat, but how do I secure it and not block the heat vents with minimal tools? I know HD or Lowes can cut some wood to size that may help. However the more likely route though is I will mount both my amps to the plastic cubbys behind the back seats, but how do I exactly attach it? I prefer try to keep everything as oem as possible, but I not fully opposed to screwing screws right into the plastic, but is there a better way? There doesn't seem to be a lot of resources showing how to do this.


Notes: I am doing the Metra speedwire wire harness with a direct connect into the amps, sans a LOC. Rear to M850 and fronts to JL JX400. I will have loads more questions. As I go through this process I will try my hardest to document incase I can help someone in the future.

 

If you were only running the Alpine amp you'd use 4AWG and an 80A fuse.
Manual: http://vault.alpine-usa.com/products/documents/MRP-M850_OM.PDF

The JL requires 4AWG and a 40A fuse.
Manual: http://mediacdn.jlaudio.com/media/mfg/9013/media_document/live_1/JX400_4D_MAN.pdf?1424378406

From the JL Manual:

"If you are installing the JX400/4D with other amplifiers and wish to use a single main power wire, use 2 AWG, or larger, copper main power wire (depending on the overall current demands of all the amplifiers in the system). This 2 AWG or larger power wire should terminate into a fused distribution block mounted as close to the amplifiers as possible and should connect to the JX400/4D with 4 AWG copper power wire."

Combined this basically means run minimum 2AWG fused to 120A (I'd see if I could get away with a 100A fuse probably) that runs to a fused distribution block near the amps with a 4AWG lead to each amp that has the appropriate fuse for each amp installed.

Whether or not your Type R fits (in a box that would fit behind the rear seat), I don't know, and if it does, I don't know what space you have left for two amplifiers, power distribution and presumably, crossovers (I like to mount them near the amp for easy access). You'll just have to mock that up and see if it works.

Lowes, Home Depot, and audio shops will have smaller packages of connectors for you to use. Crimpers are not too expensive to just pick up a set and have forever. All the crimpers I have are like these: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-T...PIPHorizontal2_rr-_-100647831-_-203433805-_-N

 

See replies in quote

 

I had no idea the Alpine amp was that overpowering. Can I just run a sub off the the 3rd and 4th channel from the JL jx400 and not use the Alpine, or would that be a waste of the Alpine? That is great to hear the components are solid speakers. I didn't think to check in with local shops for the connector gear, great suggestion. It sounds like I need to go with a new sub and box setup all together - at least now I know.

I am getting closer on this project.

Will a 0/1 gauge run through the firewall, or should I run two sets of 4 gauge through it?

Is Dynamat door kit worth it on the front doors, should I do two kits per door - is that worth it?

 

It's always ok to have an amp that's too big. I would keep all 4 channels of the JL for my door speakers, unless you plan on running a front-only setup. The alpine amp is still very usable, but it's quite large. When it comes to mounting, that is a down side. But you already own it, which might even it out.

0awg will fit through the firewall fine. It might be a pain to get down the door sills and under the carpet, but the firewall won't be a problem.

 

Any one use this enclosure? Will this work?

It says the back wall bracket has to be removed. Is this something that would be concerning at all?
Will this work with the window motor?

https://www.thesubboxshop.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=tacomaDC16singleAA&CartID=1

 

“Will it work” is a loaded question. Can you put any 10 inch sub into any 10 inch enclosure - yes. Will it be any good - that depends. There is a lot more to building a speaker than does it “fit”. The simple solution is: if you found an enclosure that fits in the space in the truck, then buy a speaker recommended by the box builder. They should have already done the math.

If you still want to use and optimize the existing sub speaker, then someone will have to do the math (factor in the relationships between the speaker and its enclosure). There are books and freeware programs on speaker building.

 

I think I am just going to buy a new sub specific for use with this box if this box will fit the truck.

Where are people grounding in the rear? Is the a ground spot on the driver side in the rear?

 

This will trickle in....

 

I saw a thread where the guy built brackets and mounted the amp to the bottom of the seat, off the floor. Looked rugged as well. You could do something similar with bar stock, and follow the existing wiring to get to the amp.
I haven't had my seats out since i put heat in them, so I'm not sure of the depth. The bar stock might need bends or spacers to accommodate the amp sitting literally under the seat cushion. Leave some space above the amp for cooling.