2017 Tacoma won’t start - because tail lights?

Sounds like a direct short pinched wire will kill system because of direct ground

 

All vehicle electrical wiring circuits are designed with “engineered” resistance which has always been critical. Today with canbus and multiplexing you simply cannot change or alter the “engineered” resistance at all. There is no “what if’s”, you cannot substitute bulbs, resistors, actuators, relays, etc., the electrical part or components you replace must match exactly what you removed or you will definitely find yourself in a huge electrical mess where nothing will operate as designed. Today’s vehicles are no longer the “simple” set of wheels that anyone could work on with their $50 Craftsman tool set.

 

Could be a Das Boot sorta thing.

 

Check for a ground wire that may have broken when you moved the bed

 

Whoa, so many guests here. I hope OPs grammar teacher isn’t here. Glad you got it started OP .

Sounds like you pinched a wire moving the bed which caused a short.

 

Bias voltages, known resistance specs, etc allow the modules to monitor circuit integrity. CAN and other network types allow the modules to communicate.

These systems allow easier diagnostics and more advanced functions (like not going into reverse at 80mph) but unlike your '69 GTO you can't just splice into any convenient wire to run random 12V components.

If you want to add stuff install a secondary fuse box and use appropriate guage wire with each load component on its own fused circuit.

Everybody reading this thread should see why aftermarket remote starts and alarms are a bad idea. Very few of them do it properly.

 

Example 1: See my old roommate's Tacoma with the SUPER AWESOME COBRA ALARM SYSTEM!!!!! Splice galore and somehow still worked... (80% of the time).

 

Sounds like a bad ground

 

i waz hopping thaat some1 wood tell him thaat BRAKE is not speeled BREAK

sorry

 

It's a combination of the "one-size-fits-all" wiring gauges (cheap) splices normally used combined with the fact that a lot of people go to the cheapest place to install and end up with issues.

 

I was thinking more these type:


Twisted and taped is great until the copper wire starts stress relieving itself and loses the tightness of the wrap and then has intermittent connectivity...

 

Made me spit my drink.

I think someone told him, but he continued to use "break"

 

Does this image work?

 

What about posi-taps?
Less damage to the existing wiring, and small hole it makes is almost unnoticeable.

 

These Tacoma's have the most finicky electrical system I've ever seen in my life. 3 days after I bought my Tacoma I had to have it towed to the dealership with 138 miles on the odometer. It shut off on me on the highway with the screen claim the transmission was critically overheating and it shifted itself into neutral. I had to pull over and try to restart the truck. Kept giving me the message that it be couldn't start because the Transmission had seized up and to see my dealer. Towed it in. Turned out to be I had one of those cell phone chargers off eBay with the little led lights on them that make it look like power is flowing into the phone. Apparently that was somehow feeding Back into the electrical system making the ECU detect problems that weren't there. Even the Toyota tech couldn't believe it. Their computer showed power anomalies all over the place so he called me out into the shop asked if I had done anything to the truck yet and I reached into my center console to grab something else out and apparently knocked the USB out of the cigarette plug and he goes "what did you just do?" So I told him, and he jumped in hit start and all the problems were gone. Plugged that back in and got "transmission has seized. See your dealer" message. No one at the shop could believe that USB cable had crippled the entire truck. I had that cable in my 2003 Avalanche and in my 2004 Wrangler before this with no problems whatsoever.

So if my phone charger could cripple my tacoma it's likely something equally stupid crippled yours

 

wtf. That 12v should be straight to fuse box and straight to power source. Why that is hooked up to the ECU or other sensitive electronics is ridiculous.

I remember my Chrysler 300 being somewhat similar. Couldn't even replace a speaker without frying the whole stereo since its all computer controlled now.

 

It’s called canbus and multiplexing.

 

Total garbage and does not belong in any vehicle, new or old.

 

Right but that's like swapping your bulbs in your house to LED and now your microwave doesn't work. That should all be on separate circuits not connected or affecting each other in any way. It's a 12v charging port, not an OBD2 port with access to the whole system.

They're making vehicles more complex in many great ways, but also over complicating simple features.