Home Improvement Today?

what are the 2 switches on the left?

 

Kitchen and dining main lights. im standing in the space between the living room and kitchen at the hall. Original switches were in the wall we removed to open the two areas up.

 

ah ok that makes sense. But I would have had one switch on the right coming in from where you are in the pic for the hallway and one on the left at the end of the hallway by your master bedroom for lighting.

 

for the hall, i agree. But then to turn on the lights for the kitchen/dining you'd have to walk all the way into the kitchen from the hall to the slider to hit the closest wall switch.

EDIT:

 

I would leave the kitchen/dining switches where they are. The hall switch would bug me

 

Gotcha, i misunderstood. The hall switch now is just a habit to flip it as im walking down the hall. Its also dark AF in the hall and its directly in front of the left turn to the hall bath so in a way it works, but could have definitely been better.

 

@LTDSC My recommendation would be to get a smartthings home automation solution then do what I did in my living room. My living room lights were on the other side of the room from our bedroom and a pain to turn the lights off and then run into furniture as we walked to our bedroom to go to sleep. So by our bedroom door there is an outlet, I tapped into this outlet, and put in a gangbox/lights switch right above the outlet at "switch" height. The power from the outlet just provides load to the switch so that there is power to it. If you go with the GE Zwave switches, you can create associations. So the switch behind your door would be master and would go to your lights, the switch you would be placing somewhere else in the room would be the slave switch that would be placed into an association with the master switch. So when the slave switch is triggered, it would send an "on/off" command to the smartthings hub, the hub would then locally send the command to the master switch to turn the lights on or off. They do not need to be wired together, and the slave switch does not have to be wired to the lights like in threeway wiring config. If you want I can explain more, but this is what I would do personally.

 

Update on the resurrection ,

Got our under slab plumbing installed . We lined the trenches with filter fabric and backfilled them with clean gravel so they essentially act as our low point drains . There is a section of perforated drain tile to collect the water that runs parallel to the lowest pipe and is tight piped to the exterior




Next up we covered all the clay subgrade with filter fabric and then a 6" layer of clean gravel was installed to act as a drainage layer




The drainage layer fully installed and compacted




The slab edges got a R-7.5 , 1 1/2" styrofoam thermal break and the entire interior gets a R-12 , 2.4" styrofoam layer with all edges taped




Code here calls for a 6 mil vapour barrier under the slab and thats what we usually use but with all the water that is seeping out of the ground here I wanted to go with something heavier so we used a 15 mil Stegowrap vapour barrier .

Finally we installed 15m rebar in the slab thickening where a shearwall will reside and 6x6 remesh throughout the rest




We still need to chair the remesh .

Pour set for Monday , 16 yards of 32mpa / 10 mm concrete

 

I wish you had a time lapse film of your work...

 

Looks awesome!

 

Plastic over the windows is easy to install, crystal clear when done, and definitely has a positive impact on comfort and heating bill!

LED worth a look.

We have a 250W heat bulb for the chickens. They like it, haven't been outside for three days!

 

We had one of those for the chickens, but it was messing with their sleep cycle and they would be up at 2am being loud as hell. Switched to one of those ceramic heat bulbs, it’s much quieter now

 

I’m not concerned about install I’m concerned about taking it off so I can foam around the frame.
I’m hoping that shit isn’t glued on or I’ll just foam around the plastic trim.

 

Has anyone heard of a shopvac that you can hook a hose to for vacuuming large amounts of water? So you dont have to keep emptying the vac. If you know where to find them please post a link.

 

It should just be an adapter you put on the drain hole on the bottom part of the vac and not be a seperate vac.

 

Better yet, he could to timelapses and Ask Oz videos and put them on Youtube and people would watch the crap out of it. Then he could get festool to sponsor him

 

Think my tree is salvageable?