Question on adding a sub and bass roll off

I have the non-JBL entune with the 7" touchscreen. I've already done the subaru tweeter and kicker speaker upgrade and so far it is a very nice upgrade for the time and money spent.

That said I'm considering the addition of a sub. I'm on the fence as to whether I will attempt to do it myself of have a car audio shop do the install. Either way I have a question I'm hoping someone here can answer so I don't buy stuff that's not needed or end up not being 100% happy because I didn't get everything right the first go round.

I've seen mention made of how factory head units will automatically reduce low frequency output at higher volumes (bass roll off) to protect both the speakers and I guess the headunit from damage. If I install a subwoofer and use a line output converter am I correct in thinking that the signal the LOC gets will be subject to bass roll off? Do I need to get a DSP to avoid bass roll off? Something like the Audiocontrol LC7i?

The subs I'm considering are the JL Audio 10" sealed powerwedge if it fits in the rear storage area without trimming the plastic - I'm fine with a hole or two to run cables but I really don't want to cut out the entire bin to get this to fit. If that's not possible I will probably bite the bullet and pony up for a JL Audio Stealthbox in which case I guess I would need an amp. Open to any and all recommendations for those who have gone down this path before on which amp to get.

 

If I install a subwoofer and use a line output converter am I correct in thinking that the signal the LOC gets will be subject to bass roll off?

Yes, but I can't tell you if the tacoma head unit does this. Not all HU do it.

I originally purchased an LC7i for my build but I replaced it with an amp that has speaker level inputs and a built in DSP just in case. This is something you could possibly do for your sub amp.

 

I just did the tweeter upgrade and an underseat powered Sub. Won't be enough bass for some folks, but I'm content.

 

The LC7i isn’t a DSP, just a good quality line-out converter. Good piece though. I’m using it.

If you’re only doing a sub, you can use the LC2i instead of the 7.
If you’re doing an amp on all the speakers AND adding a sub (or adding an amp for the door speakers later) you need the 7.

 

Thanks for that tip. I would only be doing the sub.

 

If you get a JL Audio amp...you won’t need a converter. I did 2 JL 10s behind the seat. JL slash amp. No converter. It’s a GREAT system. If you can afford JL subs...spend a little on a JL amp as well and do it right.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2018-toyota-tacoma-dclb-bbp-audio-build.570572/

 

I have the JL Audio Stealthbox matched with the JL Audio - XD300/1v2 mono amplifier. I think it sounds fantastic and, in my opinion, there is no reason to add a LOC as mentioned above.

 

How does the stealthbox sound with the seat up?

 

I think it sounds great... I have never had the seat down.