MT Accumulator Delete Mod (ADM) and BS Thread

I actually haven't had any real call, to start from a nose up attitude since I got this truck. Pretty flat in this area. Now, when lived back east, drifting back was always a good way to keep people off your bumper. But nowadays, they seems to sit back an entire car length, (or more), at a stop sign or light. They only get closer when you're actually moving on the road.

 

Been a couple of days since bleeding the rest of air from my clutch and putting some km’s.

I am finally able to make butter smooth shifts repeatably.

This mod is a must to any average to serous manual drivers.
Special thanks to @Trident @tonered and@TeecoTaco for making this possible .

 

You're welcome!

Enjoy it.

It's good that you didn't get @Shellshock 'ed.

 

Don't forget RedBeard1 ....... I think he did this ~ a year ago ? ....

 

Yep! He confirmed the brake line elbow worked.

 

Added a link to a post from @DaveInDenver about flare types. Great info.

 

just picked up my truck.

hello, clutch, nice to finally meet you.

 

Send it!

 

And Props on the 6 speed avatar

 

Grassy-ass!

It is a lot more squinty than the other one. It's a 5er and R.



I found it searching for an AT version for someone.

The funny part is that mofo has a higher R ratio also!

 

what kind of fluid do i replace it with? any recommendations?

 

I recommend referring to the owner's manual. It will tell you which grade and what specs the fluid should meet.

 

Brake fluid:
SAE J1703 or FMVSS No. 116 DOT 3

correct? but is there any brand you guys would recommend?

 

what ever brand hits those marks. I don't even remember what brand I purchased, but I did get it at AutoZone. Unless you drain the system, you will only be adding about 2 ounces of fluid, so get the smallest bottle available.

 

Any brand of DOT3 will do you well if you are bleeding every two or three years.

For my bike, I'm a big fan of Motul DOT4. It's wet boiling point is better than most others' dry boiling point.

 

thanks fellas

 

Looked at my service notes and I did this mod in January of ‘17. Was thinking it had been a while.

 

The saga of Shellshock continues -

Since my disaster and after taking my truck to a guy to bleed the clutch with the stock parts in place, it still hasn’t quite felt right.

Since it’s about 100 degrees warmer today than it was a couple days ago, I figured what better to do than try and break my truck again

So after you’ve installed your delete, you’ll need to bleed the clutch. For some people it’s no big deal, for others like myself I managed to fill it full of air and cause myself a lot of headaches

Here’s Shellshocks clutch bleeding for dummies (like myself)

Stuff you need
10mm flare nut wrench
Tubing
Plastic bottle
DOT fluid
A friend or something to hold the clutch pedal - I used an adjustable hiking pole. Just be sure it’s fully on the clutch and not going to slip off

Drill a small hole in the cap of your bottle to feed the line through

The line I used is slightly too small for the fitting, so I shoved it on a pair of needle nose pliers and stretched it out. After a couple attempts I was able to feed it over the bleed valve and it shrunk down and sealed nicely

Once you’ve got the line on the bleed valve, put a little fluid in the bottle and insert your tube

Top off clutch fluid reservoir (do not let it get anywhere near empty or you’ll be starting all over)

Pump the clutch 25 times
Hold clutch down
Open bleeder valve
Close bleeder valve
Repeat

The first couple times nothing really came out into my hose other than a couple drops of fluid. As you repeat the process, you’ll see more fluid and less air and eventually only fluid.

Once you are content with your bleed, ensure the bleeder valve is closed then remove the hose

At this point I would recommend taking the truck for a short drive to ensure the clutch acts as you’d expect as it’s possible to only have fluid come out and still have air in the system.

In my case, more pumping between bleeds to build pressure and remove the air would have made it a non issue. I would error on the side of pumping way more than you feel necessary (25-100 times) to make things easy.

I’ve finally got all of the air out of my system and when I feel inspired again, I’ll finally get my delete installed. For the time being I’m just content to have a somewhat “normal” clutch that is air free.

 

Never skip leg day.

 

Damn dude, that's rough. Glad you finally got it sorted though.

On another note, can we talk about your towel seat covers? I did that for a while when I had my '14, then I found a headwaters seat covers.

Paul, the owner was originally personally measures and creates the templates for each vehicle and they fit like a glove. The install can be a bit tedious because the covers fit so tightly, but the result is worth it. The material is Cordura with a waterproof backing. They are extremely durable and are not slippery. A set for the front buckets including the console cover will set you back $240, but you won't be disappointed. He also offers some nice options for pouches, map pockets, and scabbard etc.... I have the hanging knee pouch which is really nice to toss your wallet and phone into instead of having it in front of the shifter.

https://headwatersseatcovers.com/product/2016-2019-tacoma-buckets/

This is not my truck, but it is a photo Paul sent me when I inquired about new covers for my '17. I have these exact same covers in my truck now.