Knucklehead Rookie Mistake (Oil Change)

What's the real deal with the metal housings, guys? Some people say they leak, others say they don't. I'm not scared of plastic, but metal is awesome. Although, I dont want to install something I'm going to have to constantly check to make sure it's not leaking.

So what's up?

 

As a tech, the problem is that the plastic is easily over tightened. Namely by quick lube places that are worried of it coming loose. Once they are over tightened the plastic is stressed and can crack.

It's really not that common, but if you plan to keep the truck forever, switch to the metal housing by all means. The metal ones aren't really affected by over tight.

I change about 1 plastic oil filter housing on a Toyota (rav4, camry, corolla use plastic as well etc) every 2 years, so it's not a huge concern.

 

So I do the services myself, and am anal about torque specs (was a tech for 10 years myself). So if I understand you correctly, I really dont need to worry about switching to metal as long as I'm using the correct torque specs?

 

Did something similar on the Wife's Forester. Change the oil, drain my waste oil into a container and find the little copper washer that's suppose to be on the drain plug thats already installed, keeping the fresh oil from draining out. Had to quickly pull the plug put on the washer then re plug it. Somehow I only lost a quart doing it.

 

I just swapped out the plastic housing for the metal one yesterday. FWIW - the filter cap removal tool seems to fit better on metal vs. plastic.

Torqued the filter cap and drain plug cap to spec - all good.

Long term - the metal housing seems like the way to go.

 

Yes, Get the Baxter Performance spin on adapter and never deal with it again. Costs $200 but worth it. Best mod I made.

 

I'll probably leave the stock plastic one on til Toyota Care free maintenance ends at 20K, then replace it with the metal one and do my own oil changes after that. I've already done two oil changes myself, they're not that difficult, and I'll be sure to install the seals and thread the metal one on correctly. Seems a no-brainer for DIY'ers for $20, just make sure to install the seals and not cross-thread it.

 

This is the plan i am going with. Just had my last oil change so i plan to stock up on filters, the metal housing, 0w20. The good thing... The corolla si also takes 0w20. There was a solid step by step around here too.

About the baxter adapter. I heard the cartridge filter actually was a better filter than the spin on equivalent? Any truth to that?

 

$19 at Harbor Freight. Works more than well enough for the tasks that you will be doing.