My BlackVue DR750S install.... not to bad

Why not get an OBD2 port splitter. I think they are around $15 or so.

 

I hadn't thought of that. If one won't interfere with the other. I already have a ODB2 extension cable. Thanks.

I may go with this one.

$12 iKKEGOL OBD2 OBDII 1 to 2 Ultra Low Profile 16 Pin Male to Female Y Splitter Cord Diagnostic Extension Cable with Individually Power Switch 50cm / 20"

https://www.amazon.com/iKKEGOL-Spli...Individually/dp/B01M5G9KS0/ref=cm_wl_huc_item

 

I like that one. Has shut off switches and long enough leads so you can put your plug ins in more convenient places.

 

I installed a DR750S-2CH a few months back. The kit I got came with the Power Magic Pro but I wanted longer duration for parking mode so got a B-124 to go with it. It's an expensive set up but I am relatively pleased with what it provides. Do wish the battery lasted longer. I think I get around 18-19 hours with it, which isn't terrible since I drive almost everyday. The install was pretty straightforward, just a pain in the ass to route all the cables. I tapped into the DOOR S/L fuse (I think that's the one). 20A. I tried to test for constant on/switched fuses but somehow every fuse was always hot. Ended up picking one of the 6 or so 20A fuses I thought would be switched and got lucky; haven't had any battery issues.

Only issue I've had appears to have been caused by the in-dash ground site (near the fuse box) no longer providing a stable ground to the charging cable. Not sure why the circuit suddenly ceased to be stable but I reinstalled all the connections and hasn't been a problem since. The Blackvue app could stand to be improved. I hate coming into the truck to hear "An impact was detected during parking mode" and have to skim through hundreds of videos to find what might be the source of the impact. Most of the time it's just me getting in to the truck or closing a door.


Sidenote, I was considering finding a way to hook the Power Magic Pro in series with the B-124. Once one source is depleted, the other takes over until it, too, is depleted. Unfortunately, I am no electrician. I know not if this idea would be possible/feasible.

 

I may be overthinking this but doesn't using the Power Magic EZ use the trucks battery therefore ruling out using an external battery like the Power Magic Ultra? I was going to try and figure out if I could use a jumpstarter brick with a 12V output instead of paying almost $300 for an Ultra. I think I'd be better off with the Power Magic Pro for this project. Th Ultra's are only 6000mAh and the brick that I'm looking at is 20,000mAh. Meaning, if I could get it to work, the brick would theoretically last 3 times longer than the Ultra. I could power the charging side through accessory so it only charges when I'm driving. I'm not sure if I drive long enough to fully charge it. I'll have to ponder that one.

 

How long are you wanting it to operate in parking mode?

 

I don't think the Power Magic Pro/EZ and an external battery are mutually exclusive. I think the Power Magic Pro still needs an add-a-fuse but you have to select a constant fuse anyway, whereas the external battery needs a switched fuse. I don't see why the two couldn't operate in concert so long as a circuit connects the power output from both to the dashcam, along with something to intelligently switch between each source when the other is depleted.

 

Not sure. 16 hours on workdays and 2.5 days on weekends .That's if I don't go anywhere.

 

I'd have to see that schematic. I thought the EZ plugged into the 900S on one end and into the ODB2 input on the other, eliminating the need for add-a-fuse.

 

That is true. But the Power Magic requires an always on connection/fuse and a connection/Acc fuse. The Power box (battery pack) is basically an always on connection to the Dashcam and is in turn charged while driving via an Acc. connection. Once the battery pack is drained, that's it... it will turn off and not begin draining the car battery.

 

I get that. I was just curious as to how you'd connect an external battery while also using the EZ since I'm assuming I'd be getting the always on and the accessory powered 12V from the ODB2 connector and they would both be coming from the trucks battery.

 

There 'might' be a way to do that, but I'm not privy to it. Maybe some sort of switch.

 

I'd think that would involve cutting into the truck wiring at the ODB2 connector which defeats the purpose of the EZ.

 

I don't know how the Power Magic Pro/EZ connect. I think the Pro connects via a fuse and I guess the EZ uses the ODB port? Either way, both modules should output the power they get from whatever source via some cables. Combine those cables with the output cables of the battery and you should be good but you still need something that selects a single source and uses it exclusively until depleted.

 

Correct on how the Power Magic and EZ connect. Both will turn off when they reach the programed time and/or voltage drop. I just don't see how you combine either of these with a battery power. I think if you want the battery set up you simply plug the camera into that, and then hard wire (or plug into cig lighter) the battery to a Acc fuse. The battery will charge as you drive, and drain as your truck sits parked.

The camera hooked up via the Power magic will probably run for about 6-8 hours... maybe a little more depending on how many times it gets activated by motion and how good your car battery is. The battery pack should run much longer in park mode and that's the reason people spend for it.

 

What he said. I think the camera is always on in parking mode but doesn't write to the SD card unless there's an event. So, theoretically, you should get a long on time. I would think the battery would get eaten up by writing to the SD card. I'm fairly certain that's why they get away with only 6000mAh battery packs. They "allow" more packs to be connected to lengthen standby time but, at $300 a pop, you gotta be loaded to do that. I'm still looking at the jumpstarter method which will give me 3 times more standby time at a much cheaper price point.

 

let me know if you find one. I'm considering adding the battery pack if I can figure out where I can mount it so it will be out of sight yet somewhat accessible. The idea of having it lay along side the drive shaft hump doesn't do much for me.

 

Most people that I've seen put them under one of the front seats.

The jumpstarters contain lithium ion batteries. 18650s I'm sure. I believe the $300 Blackvue battery packs are lithium iron phosphate 18650s which don't get so hot that they explode. My thoughts on the lithium ion batteries is that overcharging is what causes them to explode. That's why you see vaping batteries catching fire in vapers pockets. Substandard charging circuitry overcharges them. I think, if one is careful, that can be avoided. Famous last words.

This is the one that I was looking at. The deal has expired but I'll keep a lookout. it will return at that price. The thing that I like about this one is it has a dedicated 12V output. Others have multiple outputs on one plug that must be cycled through. That can get dangerous if you need 5V but it's outputting 12V. Opps, it's only 12,000mAh. My bad. So it would only last twice as long as the Power Magic Ultra.

https://www.dealigg.com/story-Cyntur-JumperPack-Mini-Lithium-Ion-Jumpstarter

Edit: I ended up having a jumpstarter that I don't use. It's one I got for my motorcycle that I'm about to sell. It's 13,8000mAh. Twice as much as the Power Magic Ultra. It has an output that is switched 12V/16V/19V. I was leery of using it thinking the voltage could get changed by accidently selecting the voltage change button. I'd hate to have something expecting 12V and I give it 19V. (That's why I'd rather have a jumpstarter with a dedicated 12V output.) That could be an expensive day. Anyway, I've found that, if the connector is plugged into the output, the voltage can't be changed via the switch. Sounds promising but I'd still worry about an "accident." And the input is 15V so I'm sure I can charge it with 12V. I'll check it out when I get my DR900s.

 

I have my B-124 lying against the passenger side mount below the glovebox, secured using the provided adhesive velcro tape. An under-the-seat mount is much better but I've left it there out of laziness and to be able to play around with it if things go sideways.

I would gladly switch to a better battery if it is just as safe. I don't know enough about batteries to want to switch to something that wasn't necessarily designed to sit in a hot cabin for hours on end everyday. To be fair, the B-124 is pretty nice. It's got Bluetooth (LE, i think) so you can use the Blackvue app to check up on it. I left the beeps on for that added peace of mind. I now expect a single beep shortly after the 5 beeps the truck makes if I've not yet buckled up. Two beeps within a minute of engine shutdown.

As I understand it, when the camera is in parking mode, it is constantly on. It records all it sees but only actually writes to the card when it flags footage as an event, either motion or movement. Because what it determines an event can vary, expected battery life varies. The battery could be sourced first as that is likely to cover a night's worth of footage and I'd rather dump the recharge cycles on that battery than my truck's battery. For extended duration, a Power Magic Pro/EZ in series could help. I imagine a component could be made that accepts the power outputs from the battery and the Power Magic Pro and outputs a single power that connects to the dashcam. This component could select the Power Magic once it stops getting current from the battery or something like that.

 

All true but my problem with the PM Ultra is the battery capacity which is pitiful and the price which is outrageous. I'd be willing to pay their price for 20,000 or 30,000mAh but, again, 6000mAh is just pitiful.