UCA Bolt cut and replace

I am about to install new ICON UCA's on my 2016 and been looking at the space where i have to pull bolt out, and seems big pain, seen topics that seem to go 50/50 bending and cutting, so my question is instaling the UCA bolt from top to bottom is there issue with that? noticed that spacing towards the cab is much bigger and easier to manuver, any one has any info why would toyota do such idiotic thing and not provide space to remove and install uca arm bolts eaiser?

 

Installed the bolt the other way on passanger side. No issues at all. Removing the bolt.. was a different story!

 

I can't believe people actually cut the bolt and buy a new one instead of just slightly bending the sheet metal. I bet you could bend it out of the way by hand and avoid cutting and replacing it. It doesn't need to move much(2mm??)

 

On 3 out of the 3 Tacoma specific lift installs I have done, slight bending of the sheet metal is needed. Never had to resort to cutting them at all.

 

not sure ether i am not seeing or 2016 is different but it does not look like a slight bent and looks like have to take few things out also on driver side, is 2016 different?

 

Drivers side can be bent relatively easy. Passenger side is not even close, it would require major bending. It can be done but cutting the passenger side bolt is much much easier.

 

The 2016 has more sheet metal in the way than a 2nd gen.

 

Did you manage to get the passenger side UCA bolt removed with just bending? Any tricks?

 

Yes. I did not cut anything. Channel locks and some force. That's all it takes haha

 

Just bumping this because it came up as the first search result on google....

On the SR5 (possibly all 3rd gens), the metal you need to bend for the passenger side bolt for the upper control arm is too thick to easily move. You need to cut the bolt and replace it.

There's a reservoir there that isn't on other trims, and it's mounted to a plate on top of the sheet metal of the wheel well. The plate and wheel well are fused, so you literally CANNOT bend the sheet metal out of the way on the SR5. Anyone who disagrees is wrong.

The part you'll need for the Upper Control Arm Bolt for a 2016 Tacoma is

$21 90105-A0095 Axle Flange Bolt

90105-A0095. Hope that helps people searching for this info, it took me 10 minutes to find that part number too. You just install the bolt backwards when reinstalling; there is plenty of clearance that way.

 

Not sure if it’s SR5 as much as 2nd vs 3rd gen. I helped a buddy do his UCA’s on his ‘16 TRD OR and the sheet metal / fender is way thicker on the 3rd gen than on my 2nd gen. On his we cut the bolt on the passenger side. On my ‘13 TRD OR, some large channel locks and a pry bar were enough to remove and feed the bolt the proper way down.

 

Do they assemble the suspension before dropping the cab on the vehicle or something?

 

I was curious so I did a quick search, appears that the can is assembled separately from the frame/suspension/drivetrain.
Around the 2:15 mark, you can see the suspension installed on the frame.

https://youtu.be/i_THcFcn-Ac?si=3omnsPSn9GwScnJz

 

Slight bend of the sheet metal on my 2012 SR5 was all I needed to remove the bolt. Might be different for Gen3 or other trims/years as some suggested.

 

I just replaced my UCA’s in a 16 off-road last night. Watched a you tube video before I did it, the guy made it seem easy. The passenger side was the biggest pain in the ass, it was almost as if there was a double reinforced section of sheet metal, there’s a plastic clip for a small run of wires where the bolt was hitting and required some serious bending with vice grips and a cheater bar, nothing was in the way after that. The driver side only required some minor bending and to remove a small plastic clip to get a small run of wires out of the way.

 

For a 3rd gen offroad and pro, cut the bolt on the passenger side and install in reverse per service manual. Use blue locktite and make a witness mark on the nut for peace of mind.

For drivers side, you can't install in reverse due to the brake booster lines being in the way. You will have to bend sheet metal and work the bolt out and in from the front.