Frame coverage for 2011+

Good to know, I just bought at 2011 three weeks ago. When I contact my local Toyota dealership to ask them to inspect the frame for replacement or do the coating, do I just reference the KOD service campaign, and they'll know what that means?
When I do the VIN lookup on https://www.toyota.com/recall it still says "There are no open Safety Recalls or Service Campaigns for this vehicle." Do I wait until it comes up?

 

Patience my friend, let the program get rolling. They will most likely contact you. If not, take it in when you hear about others getting the work done.

 

Right. I should have said, "after it's officially announced." If I'm registered with the Toyota Owner's website, will I get that notification?
Ford never notified me of the recalls on my Focus. Or if they tried, I never received one.

 

I think you should. I get all the letters in the mail. I haven't moved since I bought the truck though.

 

You'll know when it happens because the 2nd Gen section of TW will have multiple threads going on about it.

Everyone will want to be the first one to break the big news.

 

It will not be a hard wax, just a thick liquid wax coating, it will only be applied on the inside of the front boxed section of the frame and specific location on the c channel of the frame in the middle. There will be no rubberized CRC used on this new campaign. There should not be any issues if you already have fluid film applied as they are both waxes the new stuff is just thicker then fluid film.

 

It has not been release yet i will update when it does. It will be a limited service campaign so it sounds like it may be a time/mileage based recall but unsure until it is released.

 

Unless Toyota specifically has techs applying this coating between the sections of frame somehow, this problem will only persist. The CAT converter rust site starts between the layers.

 

It only looks like it starts between the layers. It actually starts on the very inside, rots through the inner layer, and only THEN creeps in between the layers.

And the catalytic converters really don't have much to do with it, except that a little bit of heat marginally increases the rate of chemical reaction (i.e., rusting). The real problem is the crap that flies off the front wheel, up into and through the front cab mount, and from there into the frame. There's a big hole in the frame hidden by the cab mount, but you can see it if you look carefully.

 

I’m aware of the giant hole. Unless people run no flaps, I don’t see how substantial crap makes it up through the body mount, into that hole and against the inner portion of the frame. I suppose.

I’d like to see people take a scope and show that, otherwise I’m more inclined to believe the small rectangular holes on the outer sides of the frame where you can see sandwiched frame are the problem spots.

 

Mud flaps won't stop anything. Especially if you're driving at any kind of speed, in which case there will be a vacuum formed behind the flap, sucking all that road crap up in that direction. All mud flaps can actually catch is... mud, and rocks. Big things that won't follow air flow.

And on top of that, it doesn't take a "substantial" amount of road crap. Just needs enough to make it salty damp.

 

My 2010 got the "rustproofing" in November 2017 and seems to be holding up quite well. Seriously though, why do Toyota truck frames suck so much?!?!

 

Interesting

 

Just my opinion really, removing the mud flaps does exacerbate the problem because that allows debris to blast the paint. The coating needs a void to let the water and oxygen get to the iron for rust to start.

Once there's a scratch or chip all rust needs is humidity, there's no argument about that. Having them isn't going to stop rust once it has started. Salt isn't necessary really, but that along with the heat from the catalytic converters just increases the rate of reaction.

My point is only that removing the mud flaps increases the chances of the paint getting chipped, it's not insurance against rust, though. Inside the frame it probably is more about workmanship, an insufficient or inconsistent layer of paint.

 

subbed

shoot, my 2015 has surface rust on the welds. Been cleaning if off with naval jelly and touching up with rustoleum primer/paint.

it seems like there could be MUCH better paint on these frames. I really don't get it. It doesn't even look like real paint.

 

Thanks for the info and updates OP! I hope this isn't going to be limited to the original owner only. I haven't followed the original campaigns, so maybe my fear is unfounded.

 

The only thing they go by is the VIN#, which will give the "in-service-date".

 

They picked 10mm because the mechanics can never find it.

 

My 2011 frames is near perfect having lived most of its time in TN but with the amount of salt they put down in PA I will have to look into the coating.

I will continue to FF the frame every year and wash the underside through the winter but seems like some extra preventative maintenance couldn't hurt

 

@stefanlg55

Any updates?