Should I replace my Tranny oil and filter?

Just make sure if you do it yourself to look up the tightening specs for the little bolts that hold the filter in. Should be in newton meters if I remember correctly. Oil pan bolts as well!

 

Well I looked at it today to count the bolts to get the right gasket. Looks like it has been replaced before so I guess it's not as bad as I thought. I'm gonna replace the filter and just drain amd refill Thanks fpr. the help fellas I'll let you know what happens.

 

If it leaks when you button it back up PLEASE resist the urge to give those bolts 'one last turn' - it's a sickening feeling when one snaps off. Ask me how I know that one.

 

Overdrive in the A340E series transmission is controlled by a solenoid as well as many sensors throughout the truck .
At the same time or before you plan to change your transmission fluid , it wouldnt hurt to scan the transmissions computer for codes .

There is some info in the link below that can help you
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...sions-write-up-your-4-speed-automatic.325531/

 

I can only imagine. Was it bad? What happened afterwards?

 

15 ft/lb transmission oil drain plug

88 inch/pound filter bolts

65 inch/pound pan bolts

And don’t forget a fresh gasket for the transmission bolt

 

You the man

 

No worries, best of luck!

 

One more thing, the filter bolts (4), are two different sizes, two short, two long. Should be colored differently too, keep track of where the long and short ones go, it’ll makes since when you see the dynamics of how they’re bolted in, but a heads up never hurt. I literally just did this job so all the little details are at the forefront of my mind.

 

Thanks for this. What oil did you use?. Mine is asking for Dexron II but I guess they don't make it anymore.

 

Sorry to hear that. That's what I'm trying to avoid.

 

I have an 04 2.7 3RZ, my taco manual calls for type IV, Dexron II or III for the 2RZ. If you have an 02 2.7 I would think you have the 3RZ, but definitely stick to what your manual calls for.
I used Beck/Arnley type IV. OEM or better quality, it’s good stuff. If you’re going to do a drain and fill with a filter and gasket replacement, I would go one step further. Measure what comes out, then replace, it will probably be in the realm of 5.5-6 qrts with pan and filter, a week later drop the bolt and drain, should be roughly 4-4.5 qrts with just dropping the bolt, replace, then do this one more time. You recycle all the old fluid out without the risk of doing a flush on an older transmission. I have 200,000 on mine, just did what I described, everything is smooth sailing.

 

Here's my post from another thread concerning a flush on A340F, so adjust for your transmission. It's not a force flush that many people think when they think of flushing a transmission:

I bought my truck with 265k miles on it and did a flush about 300 miles ago and have had no issues so far. Here's how I did it. First things first, check the current fluid level while the trans is at operating temp. If the fluid is red, smells sweet, and is up to the "hot" mark you many not even need to do this. But if you do just a heads up, you're going to need a lot of ATF.

1. Drain the ATF. Drain the fluid into a container that will allow you to measure exactly how much is drained. Check out the fluid. Mine was dark and brown but did not smell burnt or appear to have any material in it.
2. Drop the pan. More fluid will come out, measure it. Also check the pan for chunks of metal. There will be a metallic "paste" on the magnets, that is normal. Clean the pan and magnets thoroughly.
3. Remove the filter. Even more fluid will drain. Inspect the filter for any chunks.
4. Scrape gasket material from the transmission.
5. Replace filter. Replace gasket/pan. Torque everything to spec.
6. Measure the amount of fluid in the drain bucket. Replace the exact amount of fluid via the dipstick tube.
7. Disconnect the ATF return line from the bottom driver's side of the radiator. Connect a piece of tubing to the nipple and direct it into a container that will allow you to measure the volume drained.
8. Have a friend crank the truck. ATF will begin draining into the bucket. Drain 1-2 quarts. Turn the truck off. Fill with 1-2qts of new ATF.
9. Repeat step 7 until you see clean fluid coming out of the return line. (Mine took 16qts and it was still not 100% new ATF).
10. Reconnect the return line to the radiator.
11. Let the truck sit and fluid settle for a while. Check under the vehicle to make sure you don't have any major leaks. Check the dipstick to make sure that there is least a measurable amount of fluid and that it's safe to crank (probably overkill, but I didn't want to chance it). It will likely be over the "cold" mark, and possibly over the "hot" mark.
12. Crank her up and drive her around to get the trans temp to normal operating temp (~175 F).
13. Park on a level surface. With your foot on the break, cycle through every gear pausing for a second each time. Pull the parking break. Put the truck in park.
14. Check ATF again, this will let you know whether you actually need to add fluid.

I'm fairly new at this so if anyone has any better advice feel free to chime in. Some people may still not feel comfortable doing this with a high mileage transmission, but I pulled the trigger and have noticed improvements in shifting.

**Side note: I added some Seafoam hydra trans tune into my transmission about 50 miles before performing this service.

 

On mine, I tried to get the remnants out of the case for a day and a half and then tried to drill and tap for a new bolt.....buttoned it back up and then it still leaked. Gave up and towed to the transmission shop....$100 later they had apparently put a coil in the hole and it's been fine since. I'm not touching it again unless I have to. HA!

 

And you're using the transmission oil pump itself, no 'power flush' BS.
The way you stated and also just drain and fill are the only two ways that these auto trannies should be serviced

 

The last part got me intrigued. why do another drain vs flush? wouldn't be kinda the same thing?

I drained it today and put a new filter on btw. Your comments helped a lot specially the one where it said there would be 5.5 to 6 quarts I almost had a heart attack today. My manual says that drain and refill is 1.7 quarts. Not even close.

 

There's a post somewhere where someone did the math on this and I think it was determined that you'd have to do a drain and fill more than 12 times to completely get the old fluid out.

 

I took out almost 6 quarts that's why I asked.

 

Think about it, unless someone can show me the math that contradicts, let’s say your system holds 7.6 quarts (what I believe the manual states), give or take. You take out 6, and replace with 6, that’s nearly a complete replacement right there. Then dropping the bolt a week later and draining 4.2-4.5 and replacing with 4.2-4.5 purifies an already nearly completed transmission fluid replacement, doing it one or two more times even more so. Dropping the pan and filter gets you the majority of the used fluid out, then replace, after that, dropping the bolt and replacing serves to purify whatever you originally put in which mixed with the 1.whatever dirty fluid. I dropped the bolt twice after my filter replacement, some people do it 4 times. I’d say that’s overkill but whatever one feels comfortable with....
Not sure if I answered your question.

 

Kinda. Thanks for the help man.