Bakflip MX4 Prelim Review

So far I love Mine also. But I do want a shell done the road.

 

Not permanent so much as being a complete and utter pain to clean off if you remove it.

Agree, however the only reason for me to ever remove would to install a diamondback or topper.

 

Not taking it off.

 

OK @xenonsupra here you go. I should start by saying that all the mods I did were taken from or inspired by other posts in this thread. Those by @tekoma were some of the most helpful and I suggest reading those as well. I’ve tried to reference good posts by others throughout this write up. Sorry if I missed anyone. Also note I endeavored not to use RTV or any other sealant. Just my preference and I’m certain it would help if used.

As suggested by @tekoma in post #121, I installed 1/4" wide by 1/8" thickness stripping under the rails that go on the sides of bed (see annotated photo below). These have done a great job keeping out water from along the sides of the bed. Be sure to keep the stripping in the 90 degree corner along the underside of the rails, particular from the last clamp to the end of the rail at the tailgate. There is a little less compression between the top of bed and BakFlip rail here. I screwed this up the first time I installed it and the striping came out of the corner and it leaked here. I had to pull the rail off and do it again.



Initially I didn’t add anything under the rail on the front side if the bed. This was a mistake and it started leaking during the first light rain it was exposed to. I added a double layer of the 1/4" by 1/8” stripping (photo below) a few days ago. This has kept out water out during the persistent rain we had here over the weekend.



I noticed there were gaps between the side bed rail caps in both corners in the front of the bed. The easiest way to find them is to install the cap and look for where the light streams in this area. I used some of the ‘extra’ stripping from the BakFlip install kit to seal the gap. I basically just shoved it in. You can barely see some of it installed in the corner in this photo (circled). @tekoma post #121 has a better picture of this gap with the cover off. The less than ideal, shoved in stripping has been doing an OK job keeping the water out, but I’ll probably replace it with something more elegant when I find time. Some of the others in this thread have used RTV or other sealants to seal this and other small gaps in this area.



The photo also shows how I installed the drain tubes. I drilled straight into the side of composite bed like @2017TACOPRO and @discostu did (in posts # 181 and #263, respectively) using a conical bit. I did this for two reasons. 1) I didn't want the drain tubes going straight down to the drain holes in the bottom of the bed like Bakflip suggests as I was concerned they would get smashed by things I was hauling in the bed. 2) Also apparently the fuel line runs underneath the bed and there have been some instances where it was punctured when widening the drain holes.

I actually bought plastic electrical conduit elbows like @17Blue_Taco (post # 202) and @tekoma (post # 290), and @Metonymy (post #226) to do a cleaner install of the drain tube. However, I had trouble getting the bushing screwed on the outside (fender side) of the bed. I’ll probably try again once it gets warmer out.

Some things I haven’t done (yet), but are good ideas:

Tailgate gasket: See posts by @tekoma (post # 121), @2017TACOPRO (#181), and @OdiN1701 (#245). There are also good install walkthroughs elsewhere on TW. My tailgate certainly leaks a bit in heavy rain and I’ll install one of these eventually.

Sealing the seams on the top of the cover: See post #190 by @tekoma. I would check this on your BakFlip. Mine actually had these areas sealed when I received it so maybe BakFlip got wise.

Hope this helps!

 

Dude- this is such an enormous help. Thank you for taking the time to do it. I'm much more confident that I'm going to do a good job now. Will report back tomorrow night probably with an update!

 

Reporting back 48 hours after install with rain on and off for 2 days.

So far looks pretty good, didn't see any sign of leaking on the side walls, I didn't check the front near the cab yet though since I had some gear loaded already. Minor leaking around the tailgate but nothing crazy. Probably can be fixed with a tailgate seal if I want to.

I did not use any RTV yet, just did one strip of 1/4x1/8 on each side rail and 2 strips on the bulk head. I did not use the factory bak bulk head seal.
I did not drill holes for the drain tubes yet. I want to make sure i'm happy with this. Instead, I just 3D printed a small adapter to route the tube to the factory bed hole. Seems to work well enough for now, our rain isn't that heavy in SoCal.

 

you can call the manufacturer....they are great and will send you the parts......i;; look and see if i can find the number.....they sent me several bags of all the parts when they replaced my cover because mounting holes did not align up....good people

 

Anyone know how to access the truck bed with the cover closed and tailgate locked? Someone tried stealing my tailgate and broke the keyhole. Bastards.

 

Pry open just enough to fit a wire hanger and pull back on the cover’s latch?

 

i think i have the two end pads...pm me with your address and ill send them to you

 

Selling my MX4 that I only had for a week.

Basically new but I found a deal on a camper shell.

$850 Located in SoCal 91406

 

PM sent!! I’m local

 

make sure he has the rails and brakes and screws

 

I'm guessing you meant brackets? The raw aluminum ones? Yes I have those and everything else nicely wrapped up. Even the drain hose is uncut since I didnt feel I needed to install it with little rain here and a bed mat.


@RPVTaco (or anyone interested) The only thing that will stay with me is the two little square bulk head seals(no point to remove them since it will ruin the glue). You can probably get some for free from backflip or find something similar at home depot and cut to size. Should be around 5 bucks. All they are is about 1.5"x1.5" by 1/4"thick foam piece with glue backing.

 

you da man......i am sending him the end caps and red/white tape......so he should be able to install without issue

 

Wow, can’t believe how easy it is to get inside. Does not make me feel confident that my stuff is safe in there.

 

Great thread with a lot of good ideas for reducing leaks.

What seal is everyone using? Is 1/4 x 1/8 the suggested size? Is there a specific brand or material recommended? Or will this generic foam tape from Amazon work?

AP Products 018-181417 1/8" x 1/4" Vinyl Foam Tape

$6 AP Products 018-181417 1/8" x 1/4" Vinyl Foam Tape

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007EXOU8E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ClTFCbKKWK1FZ

 

I can't vouch that tape, but here's the stuff I used:

$11 MAGZO Weather Stripping Door Seal, 1/4" Wide X 1/8" Thick Adhesive Foam Tape Soundproof Weatherstripping for Windows, 3 Rolls Total 50FT Black

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XCGYFLP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's working just fine, though it's twice the price of the tape you found.

 

bcgill, I want to give this a shot as I have leaks on the side rails as well but I'm concerned this will raise the rail too much to where the seal does not contact the cap. Did you run into this at all? I tried some weather seal this weekend that I had laying around that was .375 wide by .187 think and it raised the rail to where the seal was not even touching the bed cap so I ripped it right off. I dont' want to go the RTV route if possible so the seal tape is the route I would like to explore first. I don't have any crazy leaks but enough to where I would like to seal it up a little tighter on the rails.

 

I'm sorry to hear that, I'm sure it's frustrating. As I'm sure you know, the MX4 is an aluminum cover. If you're able to get it swapped out, I would recommend looking at BAK's F1. The MX4 is their premier aluminum model and the F1 is their premier FRP model (Fiberglass reinforced polymer). It will stand up much better to hail.