Oil consumption

I'd switch to 10-30 it shouldn't hurt the engine. Probably slow down your oil burning. Are you sure it's not leaking from the valve cover onto the exhaust manifold, mine leaked there and didnt drop oil on the ground but you could smell the smoke from it burning.

 

Nope, no oil in the coolant, rarely have to top it off.

 

Are you 110% sure that this isn't a problem with your dipstick/reading method? I can't help but think about that pages long post about reading the dipstick that's been kicking around the 2nd gen section the last few days where nobody is able to read their dipstick correctly.

 

I'm thinking the same.

A quart every 200-300 miles is an incredible amount to lose internally if you're not seeing any external leaks.

Matt

 

Your consumption is extreme as others say. It's time for a compression and leakdown test IF you can't spot a significant leak.

If there are no jumbo leaks, your exhaust should look like a mosquito fog truck.

And IF that consumption level you relate is accurate, there is no way using a different oil will make a flip of difference. There is a serious issue.

 

Rings are fucked guaranteed. If there's no leaks.

Ok so here's what happens with the 2tr ring issue, the rings loose their retention so sometimes they seal and sometimes they get stuck and don't seal which allows a bit of oil to get by, it then vaporizes in the combustion chamber and the rest gets stuck or burnt off in the cats. So you never see anything out the exhaust and if you're not leaking it's a real head scratcher. My truck passed compression tests and leak down tests because the rings just happened to seal when I did the test the 2az had the same problem there was a massives service campaign about it. I just got back from the machine shop and they showed me my rings were totally screwed. She never leaked a drop. I bet if op pulled his spark plugs and stuck a cam or a flash light down there and took a look it would be black as hell and full of buildup, it'll look like an engine that never had an oil change in the combustion chamber

 

If we go on the assumption above, which makes sense....I have been using and have read about success with Rislone engine treatment (yellow bottle) to free up carbon bound rings. I add that as the last .2 qts. at each oil change. I am not having problems. There are bobistheoilguy forum guys that rave about this and that oil and additive for this, but one poster there , well respected and a pro in the oil field used and recommended Rislone for this particular issue. There may be other equally good products too. You may have your own favorite.

Maybe you can head off a problem before it's too late. It may be that big mechanical repairs are in your future anyway. I hope not.

Do your own research on that forum and see if one of the "snake oils" can help you in this particular case. Good luck.

 

My ex had one of the famous Corollas that burned oil and she lost a quart every 100 miles. I do not recall ever seeing smoke come out of that car's tailpipe.

 

Yup and a lot of people ran out of oil because of it. The only solution is new pistons and rings I just saw my engine today and the builder showed me my old rings absolutely no retention left in them at all. Going with aftermarket on the rebuild which will hopefully be completed in the next week or so

 

I guess toyota has switched to light retention rings to cut down on the friction? I know subaru had an issue with this. They went too light and they were burning oil from the factory. Here I am thinking I have this great motor based on the legendary 3rz, and how I'm going to get 300k out of it. I guess once I hit 100k I'll have to keep an eye on the oil.

How dirty were the rings? Were they clogged?

 

I didnt see them when they first pulled them so I can't say I did scope the block and the combustion chamber as well as the exhaust side when I took the manifold off were just caked in carbon. I imagine they were pretty caked however. hey man I thought the exact same thing till one day I could hear the timing chain. oh ya she got that low had about 1L of oil left in her. I didn't check the oil as much in this truck because it didn't leak.

 

Yea if I was looking at having to get something like an engine rebuild I'd spend at least $50 or so on diffrent miracle in a bottle engine cleaners and stuff. You dont have much to loose. But I bet switching to 10-30 would help out too.

 

Well, I changed the PCV valve, and although the old one still clicked when I shook it, it seemed to slow down the consumption a bit. I filled up twice and drove 300 miles since then, and only used about a have a quart of oil.

 

Well hopefully it will slow farther and your truck wont have self changing oil. What kind and brand of oil do you use in it.

 

That's still out of spec...it shouldn't be using any oil over 5k miles let alone in a tank of fuel. Once the rings lose retention that's the ball game folks you can do snake oils and backyard tricks but it will just damage the block further. My spent rings flopping around in the cylinder scored the walls, I'm glad I took the truck off the road when I did and only had to go .20 over

 

I use 5-20 full synthetic, Valvoline.

 

I'd switch to 10-30 and see what it did. Like the guy above said you could damage the block if your rings are broke or something but if your looking at getting it bored out it really shouldn't matter if its .020 over or .060 over. It wouldn't to me. I'd run it with some 10-30 or thicker high mileage or maybe add something thick like stp oil treatment. I think it burning oil would eventually clog up your catalytic converter.
Going to a thicker oil probably wouldn't hurt anything but it might make the check engine light come on since I believe the vvt operates off of oil pressure. I've heard that the high mileage engine oil helps with burning but it could just be marketing.
You might be able to find a low miles pull out motor from a junkyard and it would be cheaper than getting a bore, new pistons and rings on the engine.