30k Oil Change

Man....i just changed my oil for the first time since the freebies ended.....the first time i did it was at 5000......at that time, the silver button would not come off and the whole canister turned.....no problem, just had lots of oil to deal with......my dealer has done it overtime since.....so, now being at 30k, i am doing everything......boy, i thought it would be simple and wondered if the bottom would still be hard....well, to my surprise, the button unscrewed very easily.....however, I could not get the canister to budge.....i used the toyota filter wrench and my ⅜" drive with a pipe for leverage.....nothing, nada........i also noticed how difficult it was to get the drain plug out.....well, after everything i tried failed, I went and got my 27mm 6pt socket which fits over the ⅜" hole.....using a pipe for leverage, it finally broke loose....i was afraid i was going to break it and not be able to change the filter.....

I am going to look into the screw-on modification or the metal canister.....i also changed the drain plug out for the Fumoto valve.....the hardest thing, or should i say most annoying thing, is taking off the skid plate....but had fun.....also change cabin filter and engine filter.....love this truck.....

My next thing is to bleed the brakes.....i read or saw something that said if i have ABS, to disconnect the battery????.....is that right?

 

Sounds like the dealer was making the canister and drain far too tight instead of following the proper torque specs, I have had not issues removing them on my truck.

 

There is no reason to bleed your brakes unless you replaced a leaking cylinder or lines or last if the brake fluid has been contaminated

 

^Toyota says to flush brake fluid every 3 years.

Put some oil on the filter cap threads and you'll be OK. Dealer probably overtorqued it. Wouldn't bother with aluminum cap since aluminum on aluminum threads can gall.

Don't need to disconnect the battery for brake flush. The ABS unit doesn't have retained power if truck is off.

 

Why bleed the brakes? Most cars go their entire life on the factory fill of brake fluid.

I'm not familiar with Toyota ABS, but I have spoke to one of the GM engineers that worked on ABS for fourthgen F-bodies. To properly bleed the ABS unit on them, you either need the dealer tool (Tech2 IIRC), or the work around was to cause an ABS event (lock up the brakes in gravel for example), drive to your shop, do not shut the car off, jack it up, and bleed the brakes. Major PITA. We did that once when switching to Castrol SRF (these cars were being run on a road course). Not something I'd ever do again.

 

yea, that was my thought also....with the young guys doing the oil changes i often wonder it they even torque at all......the canister turns till it stops.....that maybe the issue....it could be seizing up due to heat

 

At work when I do oil changes there are times I have to use an impact gun loosen the canister sometimes. A lot of people way over tighten them

 

wow......i was told to do that with the botton....but just sort of zap it to loosen....but the canister?.....that could have issues with threads couldn't it

 

The first time I unscrewed it, it was tight. Been fine ever since.

 

At 30k I would just suck all of the brake fluid out of the reservoir I can with a mighty vac and refill with fresh. Kindof a "half flush". Do the whole job at 60k.

 

I have seen other guys Crack it by removing with a breaker bar. Trust me people seriously over tighten them a lot.

 

Aree we talking changing the fluid?

Brake fluid loves water. It just soaks up all the moisture it can. Then the water destroys the insides of your brake system. You might not ever see it unless you put lots of miles on your vehicle.

 

Do the Baxter Performance adapter and spare yourself grief ever again. Best $200 I ever spent.

 

Holy crap thats crazy, dont know why people feel the need to crank down on oil filters and drain plugs.

 

Yes, the fluid. And yes, brake fluid is hygroscopic. However it is in a (mostly) sealed system.

 

These young kids are just nit taught the right way to do things.

 

thats true...however, if you have a leak some where, no matter how small, there is a chance that air will seep in........air by nature contains moister which is water........water tends to boil at 212F and create air by evaporation.......thats why people get "mushy" brakes.......they have ir in the lines......thus, the reason to replace fluid and bleed

 

It won’t gall with all that oil residue on it. No one has reported any issues with the aluminum cap upgrade.

 

I'd guess that 99% or more of Tacoma owners never drive hard enough to get the brake fluid to 212º. I am pretty sure the stock pads would fade well before they could transfer that much heat.

If there is a leak, fix the leak, then bleed. Until then, it is my opinion that the only time one should replace the fluid is if they intend on extreme usage (like road racing).