Anything welding

Agreeeeddd.

I even hate the old metabo’s that have the trigger on the back that you can turn on and it keeps itself on. Way too dangerous.

Guards should always be used.

 

One in 20? I’d get new wheels or stop forcing it if you’re breaking that many.

I’m in construction and while they do explode... it’s really not a common thing unless you jam em or use a wheel that got wet or chipped.

A cutoff wheel that explodes can literally go through a face shield so nope nope nope. Risk ain’t worth the reward.

 

Yeah, this was a package of cheap ones.

 

@EatSleepTacos From what I can tell, the only difference between the Titanium 140 and the 170 is that the 170 can run on 120v and 240v input whereas the 140 can only run on 120v input. Does that sound about accurate? I only have 120v input available at my current home, but that could be different in the future. Debating whether the extra $100 now is worth it for a maybe down the road.

 

yes it is. itll also be a bonus when you go to sell it at some point if you do

 

No you don't

 

Unless you have a 20A circuit, you're not going to be able to run full 140 amps with 120, let alone 170a.

 

This is true. I trip my 15 amp breaker with my Hobart 140 at half power.

 

Thanks. A seemingly helpful response.

I have no clue what my house has, but the little Lincoln handy mig I have trips the breaker from time to time. So I’d assume less than a 20A circuit.

With that said, would purchasing a nicer (relative only to me and my current handy mig) 140/170 unit even be worthwhile?

 

FWIW.... the welder I just bought will use 120 or 240.
I tried it on 120 before I installed a 240 outlet and I tripped a 15amp circuit frequently and couldn't weld thicker stuff.
I installed a 240 60A outlet and it works much much better and has never tripped.
I would definitely get the 240 unit if I were you and explore what it would take to install a 240 outlet.
Do you have any open breaker spots in your panel?

 

I made a small extension for my dryer plug and mounted another box with a 220 plug up where it's easy to reach. I just unplug the dryer and plug in the welder when I need it. Of course, if your dryer isn't as accessible as mine you'd need a longer power cord for your welder

 

I do. And that is the main reason I'm even considering going with a 120/240 input machine.

My breaker panel is in an easily accessible location in my garage, and my wife's uncle used to be a licensed electrician and has mentioned he'd be willing to help me install everything. I honestly just don't know the approximate cost of the materials needed to accomplish the job.

 

Those old metabos are my favorite! Guard on for sure though.

 

My panel is on the outside wall of the garage so it was really easy for me. I spent about $20 on the breaker, $15 for 6ga wire, and $15 on

$16 The Eaton WD1252 2-Pole 3-Wire 50-Amp 125-Volt Surface Mount Power Receptacle, Black,Original Version,Small

this outlet. I spent another $80 on

$99 MaxWorks 80703 Heavy Duty 40 Foot 8 AWG/3C 6-50 Nema R Plug Lighted Welding Cord with ETL Approved

this extension cord to give me a little more freedom. The screwdriver I tried to weld to a live wire in the panel still works, and my wife was able to wash the pee stain out of my underwear so I'm not including those costs.

 

What if he has a gas dryer

From what I've heard and read about, go with the 120/240 machine.

Depends on where you want the outlet and if there's sheetrock on the garage walls. No sheetrock and outlet right under the panel, I'd say materials would be about $25-35 give or take. The further away, the more wire you'll need, obviously. Sheetrock on the walls will definitely make it take longer to do.

 

Thanks for the info and links. Very helpful

I'm leaning towards the dual machine, just wanted insight from folks more knowledgeable than me in the trade. It seems to offer more options for growth in the long run.

Ideally I'd put the outlet right under the panel, or on a stud close by. There is sheetrock in the garage, but I have a construction/carpentry background so I'm good in that area. Understandably there is an added materials cost there. I've just only dabbled in the basics with electrical (roughing in wiring and outlet/light/ceiling fan installs/repairs).

 

You just can't weld anything thick until you move :^)

Where there's a will, there's a way. When I was in college, I used my 220 electric range outlet for my ham radio amplifier. Room mates thought I was a lunatic.

I have an older HTP140 mig machine that's 120 only. I ran a neutral line to my 220 30amp mill outlet so that I have a socket with enough juice to turn it all the way up. Make sure you use a 20a socket if you do this, a lot of regular house sockets are only rated for 15amps. And of course, use 10g wire, not 12.

 

How about some details:

Welder?

Wire?

Gas?

Voltage?

 

Looks like you got a good handle on the basics. Did you use the suggested setting on the machine or just get lucky?

Does that machine have provisions to add gas and use solid core wire? I'm not familiar with that welder.

 

Time to start on Tee Joints

If you think Shielding Gas is expensive might want to rethink the welding idea.

The increase in my Electric Bills makes shielding gas look cheap though I am paying for a Melted Reactor so my rates are a tad high