How to: Chevy 63" Leaf Spring Swap

All very good points. But for a SAS unless you are doing the work yourself the labor cost defeats the value of the SAS. Also depends on what you want to spend all the little bits and bobs add up when doing one. Where even if you had a shop install the LT kit including Marlin's then the labor cost would be far less and time down with the truck would be far less.

You're right with what's out there right now is geared more towards the high speed desert racing type. MC is geared more towards the crawling crowd. Also great point about the rear suspension on current market for LT suspension the flex and use of the truck is completely different so the rear suspension set up usually is different and can get better results with what you described.

Also with a SAS cost is all relative to what you want to do. Like my 63 swap is costing a lot more than most folks for the simple fact I went with a different spring than everyone which for the cost on one of my springs you can get 2.5 what everyone else runs maybe even 4 if you junkyard it. Also my relocation I went with AG which is a lot more expensive than the BAMF, Ford towers, or making your own. Cost is all relative to what you put into it and how you set it up. All said and done my 63 set up will be around 2500+ something like that where most are way under that. SAS is something that you want to get right the first time and not really "junkyard it" or the results may be worse than if you just went with a really good mid travel set up.

 

Yes I was assuming that it would be DIY and not in a shop, avoiding labour costs.

My 63s cost $85 Canadian dollars from the junk yard! but I am fabbing my own shock relocation etc. I think with all of the ruff stuff parts I bought, new bushings and materials and the 16" kings I will be around $1500 usd into the rear end.

 

That seems to be about normal. DIY definitely saves a lot for this kinda stuff.

 

Strongly suggest inboardimg the shocks and you don’t have to mount them / \ like so. You can mount them from the back like @Taco No Baka @xweslingx @allenfab being that you are further inward you don’t need as long of a shock. The ford towers work well with certain wheel setups. If you want to outboard, look at the few kits that are out or bend some tube and hug the frame as much as possible. For any more swaps I’ll bend up my own shock hoops and keep them very tight or inboard them.

We originally did the ford towers on @Rattletrap66 truck because he was being limited by the 12s that the one kit offered. Did some looking and found the ford towers and it kept from cutting into the bed. Once we got it on its own weight we rubbed. Frank being frank he didn’t care and ran it. Now he barely rubs with 35s and f5s.

Found that cutting the tower right where it bends you can push them back to help gain some clearance. From the trucks ive done we have had some sort of clearance issue with the ford towers. Will not use them for any more swaps. Use them at your discretion.

 

Mine rub, but just barely.
I want to inboard them. I’m just too goddamn lazy to make it happen.

 

Any downsides to inboarding the shocks? I feel like they’d be more unstable carrying loads, towing, tight turns, etc?

 

Those as well as others depending on the angle you set them at (fore, aft, inboard, etc). Your springs are carrying that load still the shocks are just controlling/dampening the springs oscillations. There are ideal shock positions when directly connected to suspension. Once you start deviating from that there are compromises that are made. But there are some positives to that as well. I won't tell you to do any of them but to do a lot of research and then make a decision for what will best suit you.

Doing some reading and research behind the theory and design of suspension will help a lot in understanding what you find.

 

I got all the weld-on components assembled and welded on the work bench yesterday. RuffStuff makes good products from what I can tell so far. I've got one question however, should I go ahead and buy the limit straps and the mounts now or wait and see if I even need them once everything is welded to the truck? I have no plans of running the truck hard until everything is buttoned up and solid so there's no rush there.

 

Personally I would wait and see what you end up with then order the straps and the stuff. I kinda had a clue where I was going to end up and bought some 17" straps from another member on here.

 

Plated frame, 63s, 14"king 2.5s, AG relocations DONE!!!!

 

Gotcha. Looks like I'll be running a similar setup as you as far as measurements are concerned. I'm going with Ford shock towers and 14 inch Bilsteins. Are mounting the upper limit strap mount to a crossmember that you're going to fabricate or an existing location? I've thrown around the idea of just boxing my frame and reinforcing the rear with tubing while I've got the tank and bed off the truck.

 

I plated my entire rear frame section and put a piece of round tube in. Billie 14" are shorter compresses and extended than King 14" these things are YUGEEEEE!!! I set my shocks to have 5" of up and 9" of down travel and with my AG relocations up an extra inch I was able to set my lower shock mounts really high thus not having anything but the diff hanging low now.

 

I can't see the picture unfortunately....

When you ran the round tube across your frame, did you weld it to the inside of the stock frame rails, then plate around it when you boxed the frame? Not sure if that makes sense or not.

 

Naw boxed the frame first then added the tube plenty strong enough that way. I may add some triangulation tubes to it and then some bracing forward towards the cab to further stiffen the rear chassis up. It's amazing the difference there is with the suspension doing the work vs. the frame.

 

@Jerneyman

 

Right on. You use 3/16" or 1/4" for the frame plates? I generally work with 3/16" and have plenty of that. But if there's justification to go ahead with 1/4" I will. As thin as the frame on these trucks are though, I feel like 3/16" would be plenty.

 

I went with 1/4" because the steel place I stopped at couldn't get me 3/16" for a few hrs and I was in a rush. So I found enough 1/4" drops and then some and used that. In reality 3/16" is probably good but Having a little extra weight of the 1/4" is nice.

 

I've got half a sheet of 3/16" at the house so I may double stack the plate in some spots if I feel the need.

 

The DS front area is a PITA it didn't get plated quite like I would of liked due to brake line interference and a bracket for the gas tank. But I can go back in there and do some more if needed with braces or something.

 

I was thinking about that. Almost be better to reroute the brake lines external from the boxing.