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Body Mount Bushing Install - now with pictures! And a video too!!!

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Pigpen, May 18, 2016.

  1. Mar 20, 2019 at 9:31 AM
    #461
    Taco-Obsessed

    Taco-Obsessed Wildlife Peeping Tom

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    Which lift you use? Mine is Toytec.
     
  2. Mar 21, 2019 at 7:02 AM
    #462
    Thebubble

    Thebubble Well-Known Member

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    2009 Pre-Runner, V6: Totaled 2014 Tacoma 4x4, 5 speed, 4 Cylinder: Totaled 2000 Tacoma 5 Lug: Sold 2006 Lexus GX470: Wheeling!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    The body lift is the 1" toytec - about every body lift uses the same materials. All I got is the toytec AAL and toytec 2.5" / 3" spring ( totally forgot ) and a 1/2 spacer.
     
  3. Mar 28, 2019 at 10:43 AM
    #463
    teamhypoxia

    teamhypoxia MichelinMan

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    Finally ordered these off Amazon after having them in my cart forever....

    Box is labeled correctly (8.4109G) but every single polyurethane part is off by one digit.
    Instead of 4241, they sent 4141. Instead of 4244, they sent 4144.
    Caught it right away as they're square instead of round. Energy Suspension guy said it looks like they're for a Subaru or something o_O
    20190328_114242.jpg
     
    whatstcp and Bravisimo like this.
  4. Mar 28, 2019 at 12:30 PM
    #464
    Bravisimo

    Bravisimo So many mods, very little money.

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    Santa Clarita, CA
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    Tint, headlights wrapped & rear lights smoked, power outlet mod., grill & rear bumper wrapped, Falken A/T 3W,
    But are they just as good as OEM or better?
     
  5. Mar 28, 2019 at 1:03 PM
    #465
    teamhypoxia

    teamhypoxia MichelinMan

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    I don't know...
    Got a Subaru?
     
    Crom likes this.
  6. Mar 28, 2019 at 5:40 PM
    #466
    Crom

    Crom Super-Deluxe Member

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    Millions
    :rofl:

    :annoyed:

    What a drag... Hate when that happens
     
    whatstcp and teamhypoxia[QUOTED] like this.
  7. Apr 2, 2019 at 10:09 AM
    #467
    teamhypoxia

    teamhypoxia MichelinMan

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    Looks like they got it right this time :thumbsup:
    20190402_110405.jpg
    Now to scour this thread one more time for all the little tips and tricks.
     
    IronPeak, Pigpen[OP] and Crom like this.
  8. Jun 30, 2019 at 8:51 PM
    #468
    rollin904

    rollin904 Feather Slinger

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    TJ
    Greenville, SC
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    I installed just the rad support bushings (universal) with the big puck on top, no washer, and only adjustment I've made is the hood bumpers. Been debating doing the cab mounts but my truck is already stiffer than I like with all the extra weight and ome kit on it. Could you guys tell the condition of your mounts prior to pulling them out? I have a lot of vibrations but no idea if it's my mounts or the shit roads in SC
     
  9. Jul 12, 2019 at 11:19 AM
    #469
    doorsidedown

    doorsidedown Well-Known Member

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    I cannot get these damn body mount bushings to stop making noise (almost sounds like a rattle in the rear mounts)

    Short backstory - bought the truck with a body lift on it, so when I had it removed, I didn’t have any original hardware at all. Purchased a hardware kit from 4crawler, and ES bushing kit. I’ve torqued them to 34ft lbs, rattle. Less than 34 is worse, more than 34 is worse.

    Bought stock nuts and bolts from the dealer, it was quiet - thought I fixed it, drove about 100 miles and the rattle came back. Re-torqued everything and still the same sound.

    Unless anyone has any ideas, I guess I’ll be buying stock body mounts and doing it myself.
     
  10. Jul 17, 2019 at 3:36 PM
    #470
    Pigpen

    Pigpen [OP] My truck is never clean

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    Access cab with child seat in the back, yellow wire mod, diff breather relocated to tail light, engine block heater, Leer topper with Yakima tracks and rack, Yakima rack on cab, Ride Rite air bags with Daystar cradles, CBI hidden front hitch, wired for winch front and rear Warn quick connect, Warn x8000i on external carrier, sway bar delete, trailer plug relocated to under bumper, Pelfreybilt IFS and Mid skids, BAMF Tcase skid, ECGS front diff bushing, ARB CKMA12 compressor, 255/85/16 Backcountry MT 3 load E tires on stock steel rims, Toyo M55 tires (same size) on another set of stock steelies, Up2NoGood heated mirror kit, Husky X-act Contour front floor liners, Northstar AGM 24F battery under the hood, Northstar 27F in the cab, Redarc 25 amp DC to DC charger, Pelfreybilt bolt on sliders with kickout and top plates, TRD Pro headlights, Depo smoked tail lights, Energy suspension body mount bushing kit, OME Dakar leaf packs with AAL, OME rear shocks, OME 90021 front shocks with 885 coils, SPC LR UCAs, Up2NoGood 2wd low range mod, 4 Wheel Campers Grandby slide in camper, 4xinnovations high clearance rear bumper, Uniclutch 800 lb/ft clutch
    I'd guess the aftermarket hardware might have damaged the holes the hardware mounts through, leaving some play. Stock body mounts may not help the situation if this is the case. I hope not for your sake :fingerscrossed:
     
  11. Jul 17, 2019 at 4:13 PM
    #471
    doorsidedown

    doorsidedown Well-Known Member

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    Didn’t think of that. I hope not too!

    Although the aftermarket hardware looks pretty damn close (if not exactly) the same diameter. Guess I’ll find out this weekend...
     
  12. Jul 17, 2019 at 5:32 PM
    #472
    Crom

    Crom Super-Deluxe Member

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    Knowing the precise location of the noise is really important. Get some chassis ears and go to town...
     
  13. Jul 29, 2019 at 10:36 PM
    #473
    Kristi with a K

    Kristi with a K Well-Known Member

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    01' Black (was Maroon, then red) Tacoma 4x4 SR5 ACab 3.4L AT
    G-Men sticker, driver's side "backseat" window - cracked driver's side headlight cover complete with hazy look - DIY 30 footer paint lift in Bedliner Black
    Two things -
    1. I saw somewhere that a rattle on some tacomas ends up being the body mount bolts (not the bushing bolts)
    2. For the clunk/knock/sleeve thing, get some rubber gaskets, like for garden hoses. You might have to trim those a pinch around the edges. Or go to a plumber supply place. You know, the ones that have everything behind the counter. Take down the bottom bushing & pull out the sleeve. Put one gasket up around the bolt. Then put in the sleeve & put another gasket at the bottom before you put the on the washer & nut. If you get the right size or trim 'em just right, they fit in super snug.
     
    doorsidedown likes this.
  14. Jul 30, 2019 at 3:11 AM
    #474
    ovrlndkull

    ovrlndkull STUKASFK - HC4LIFE

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    63s, XD Machete, Beat not Babied
    Yes you could see the front of my truck sagged a little vs the back of the cab but that was it and only because of the sliders. When we replaced them man were they bad.
     
  15. Jul 30, 2019 at 3:12 AM
    #475
    ovrlndkull

    ovrlndkull STUKASFK - HC4LIFE

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    I've got to muck around with mine the DS front one is making a clunk offroading I can feel it in my foot.
     
  16. Jul 30, 2019 at 6:49 AM
    #476
    doorsidedown

    doorsidedown Well-Known Member

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    I took all four of mine apart and lubed the shit out of everything... anti-seize all over the bolts too. Torqued to 34 and (for now) they’re all quiet. I did end up getting the OEM body mounts, but they’re sitting in the garage. One peep from these bastards and they’re going in the trash haha.
     
    Pigpen[OP] likes this.
  17. Jul 31, 2019 at 7:44 PM
    #477
    Kristi with a K

    Kristi with a K Well-Known Member

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    G-Men sticker, driver's side "backseat" window - cracked driver's side headlight cover complete with hazy look - DIY 30 footer paint lift in Bedliner Black
    K, so back to my theory of taking out the sleeve, putting a buffer gasket over the bolt & wedging it into the bushing. Push the sleeve back in place & top it off with another small rubber gasket. All I had was a garden hose type & the center diameter was too big. I had some make a gasket, it's a roll of gasket "rope". I cut just enough to go around the bolt so as to make the GH gasket hold snug. The sleeve was flush with the bushing after inserting the first gasket, but this was good cuz after torquing everything was, yup, snug. Seems to have worked. I am a little hesitant to claim total victory since I still have to do the other side (has a lesser clunk) & until then cannot be 100% I have eliminated all clunkage/knockage/etc. I did these 1 1/2 years ago, in fact it looks like 11/19/17 since that's when I joined TW. Everything else seems to clear suspension checks, so why a tilt & clunking already? I made my own spacer so the tilt is ok now, but the clunk, which I may have remedied for now.... But still, aren't these lifetime warranty? Not supposed to wear down? Idealistic much?
     
  18. Sep 17, 2019 at 2:03 PM
    #478
    bimbamsmash

    bimbamsmash Well-Known Member

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    Hey all, just read through this whole thread searching for a solution to this ridiculously annoying squeaking sound coming from the front of my truck. Wondering if it could be the radiator mount bushings.

    I've been getting this squeaking from the front of my truck for some time now, seems to be more prevalent during warmer seasons, and sometimes I have noticed it goes away after it has rained. It gets so bad that it will squeak when I step into the truck. I hear it most when I am driving slowly in parking lots. For the longest time I thought it was my aftermarket UCAs, and I even replaced the uniballs and the control arm bushings to fix the problem. Didn't work.

    My truck has about 135k on it with an aftermarket bumper and rock sliders. I am looking to replace the radiator mount bushings since the noise seems to be coming from the front, but would you guys recommend replacing the body mounts too? If I can get away with just doing the radiator mounts I would, mainly to save money and time, but I'd rather buy the kit that has all 6 bushings right up front if that's what my truck needs. Is there any way to tell if the body mounts need to be replaced?

    Any input is appreciated, this squeaking is getting to me.
     
    TrailYeti likes this.
  19. Sep 17, 2019 at 2:22 PM
    #479
    kasnerd

    kasnerd candied bacon

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    Mods? Yes, oh yes..
    mechanics stethoscope, have someone shake/jiggle/wiggle/shimmy the truck to reproduce sound...play getting hotter/colder game. it'll be super obvious where it's coming from.
     
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  20. Sep 17, 2019 at 3:02 PM
    #480
    Littles

    Littles Stupid is as stupid does.

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    ^^^ as suggested above, I would try to confirm that bushings are in fact the problem before you throw money at a "maybe" solution. If you do determine that it's the bushings, my personal opinion is that it would be a good idea to do the body mount bushings too with 135K on the odometer. I just did my body lift at around 105K and wasn't planning to do body mounts, but the condition of the radiator bushings was pretty poor, to the point that there was no bushing left and it was metal on metal. My body mount bushings were in better condition but still were showing cracking and separation of the rubber from the sleeve. I expect you will have have to at least loosen up the the other cab mount bolts to lift the cab for the front bushings anyway, and breaking those bolts loose was the hardest part for me. There's a reasonable possibility that you will have a rusted cab mount bolt seized in there, or possibly the smaller bolts that hold the bushings to the frame. I snapped the head off one of those and had to crank every one out with a wrench the entire way they were so rusted, so you should be prepared to replace those as needed. It took me several days of soaking the seized bolt in PB plaster, then hitting it with a blow torch, and then an air hammer to get that bugger to let go. With my body lift, all the cab mount bolts got replaced so I didn't have to think about it, but had they not, I would have replaced them anyway. Just my .02 cents of advice having just done this.
     
    bimbamsmash[QUOTED] likes this.

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