The Insane Asylum DCLB build and XJ insanity

Uh, that would be a bit of a drive

 

Well you were the bored one.. just trying to bring some excitement and enrichment to your life

 

Yea I need to buy a welder and learn. That’s one major skill I never was exposed to..

 

Maybe I'll just take a nap

 

Springs ain’t going anywhere. Let me know if you change your mind

 

I have a Eastwood MIG 135, but would not trust it to do anything more than 1/8"....3/16" is really pushing the limits of a 120v welder even on a 20amp circuit.

 

You hve to deal with what you have and have access to. The machine in my garage is a little bigger and like I told Randy Saturday I have always stuck with what I was taught " yu can always turn a big machine down but you can't always turn a little machine up." The bennifit to the smaller machine, as we discussed, is it is very transportable and you can easily take it to a buddies to work/play. Not everybody is as stupid as I am and runs a dedicated 50A 220 circuit but I needed to also accomodate the plasma cutter. A 110 machine can do a hell of alot I have used one extensively day in and day out doing sheet metal work building body panels. I prefer a hotter machine for structural work but this is just my prefference. If you are going to do a bunch of 1/4" work with a smaller machine and have to crank it up just do it in sections and give your machine yime to recover most do not have a heavy duty cycle. I made the statement on the "anything welding thread" that I didn't trust a smaller machine for structural stuff and had my ass handed to me by several who said they have done alot with one. I don't doubt them and again this was only my opinion which doesn't amount to much. I can tell you I have turned my machine down and done a bunch of 1/8" and 16ge work then turned it up a little and done 1/4" and 3/8" with no problem. Just like these trucks it's finding what works best for you and your needs not about what somebody else does.

 

I def agree. I've only had to use mine half a dozen times, and thankfully it was for thin body panels on my Dad's old cars. Being so small and portable is why I got it in the first place.

I wish I could get my hands on more welding projects or some scrap metal, I need to get better at laying down good beads.

 

If you're running big droop 16"+ on a desert truck that jumps, the eyes being perpendicular to the frame allows the axle to swing forward more around the fix eye side of the leaf spring and not bind the shock.

If you're rock crawling with big articulation left to right. Having the eyelets in parallel with the frame lets the shock swing left to right and not bind the shock.

Depending on how you mount the lower eyelet you can mitigate either situation.

Hobart Handler 140 all day for a budget machine. They are fine for anything you will do on a truck

Then my truck and everyone I know's truck should have killed a bus full of nuns on the highway according your theory. None of my friends or I have anything more than a 120v welder and all are solid axle swapped, caged, trucks that have been driven on the highway or to the trailhead for years.

 

Good to know. The bottom eyelet can only really be mounted one way, and that is parallel with the axle.

I'm assuming for everyday driving and the occasional off roading either mount direction of the top would be perfectly fine. I'm probably not going to run more than a 12 or 14" rear shock anyway.

I never said it couldn't handle it, but the thick stuff is pushing the upper limits of a 120v welder. Like Chris said, you can turn a big welder down, but you can only turn a little welder up so high. Like you, I got mine to be portable and not take up a lot of room. I've done 3/16" once and it did the job fine, but I tripped the breaker twice. I don't plan on running a dedicated 220v 50A circuit in my garage or shed any time soon, so the little guy is plenty for me.

 

Conversely, voltage regulators are happiest running at max voltage. There is quite a bit more strain on a regulator (MOSFET or IGBT) that is regulating power way down than running full song and not having to impede power delivery from the supply.

 

Find a machine shop or a metal supply place and see if they have any scrap they will sell you can most likely get pretty cheap

 

This is what I was trying to say find a machine that works for you. Now take your 110 machine and turn it up and burn in 1/2" with .044 on a single pass. Your absolutely correct you found what suits your needs. I've been doing this stuff for just a little bit like 35 years and I like to burn shit in hot plus I like the versatillity of being able to do some heavyier shit with confidence. Again this is just what works for me

 

I'll try to snag some from Eddy next time I'm down there. He has plenty I'm sure.

 

This thread sucks. Unsubscribed. Going back to shit posting in the 3rd gen forum.

 

I know right all the excitement is over



Guess I need to go flex this thing out and post some pics!

 

I guess I'll stay then.

I'll get banned if I start posting in the 3rd gen forum anyway.

 

OK, so, I'm bored...Think I got the 63 swap list figured out, for the most part, that I'm gonna go with soon(ish).

3+1 springs, no over leaf - junkyard
BAMF towers
King 12" w/RR
Ruffstuff 63 swap kit - 3.25" u-bolts, 5" shackle
Ruffstuff frame outriggers
Limiting straps - length TBD

$79 Energy Suspension 3.2128G Rear Spring Set

Poly bushings for springs - TBD if necessary
Wheeler's SuperBumps - have already
Bumpstop Extenders - will have to measure and custom make
Extended Brake Lines - length and manufacturer?

 

I have these for $20 shipped.

https://www.trail-gear.com/140018-1-kitbump-stop-extension-pair.html

 

I've seen those, but not sure if A) they would be the correct height and B) the base is way wider than the SuperBumps are, so would still have to do some custom fab work to mount them.