Buyobuyo's Build Thread

Looks good

 

Thanks.

 

I picked up my truck from the 4 Wheel Parts down in Richmond yesterday. They got the suspension install errors left behind by the shop that shall not be named straightened out, and it came out great. I can't thank @Fish12South and the guys in the shop there enough.

 

Baking some 5th gen 4Runner calipers for dinner.

 

How does it feel?

 

It rides a lot better now that it isn't up in the bump zone. Before it was bouncy and stiff at the same time. It's hard to explain. It also doesn't feel like it's jumping around on small, hard bumps.

There's the very tiniest bit of a shudder right before I come to a complete stop. It may be the brakes though. It was doing it when I got it back from IPOR, but it's less noticeable now.

 

What are your travel numbers now?

 

I haven't cycled it to see, but I could take some measurements to get a rough idea.

 

Looks good man, glad to see the rig is back and alive! On the contrary I finally installed some bypasses on my ride this weekend along with the big brake kit that has been chillin for a good couple years now. Man my installs literally take years to do.

 

I know the feeling. Your stuff looks good. I saw the pictures that @snowsk8air2 posted. Did you have your calipers color matched to the King blue? It looks pretty damn close if that's Stoptech's default blue color.

I'm doing the 4Runner brake upgrade. Hopefully, this weekend. Not as balling as 6-piston Stoptechs, but for under $400 in parts it's a good upgrade and nice compromise.

 

I hear that’s the best thing out there besides going full stoptech. Yea I actually wanted their blue calipers since I have a blur and red theme going. I had no idea either how well it would match the king bling. It’s close to the coil spring color which is a nice accidental touch to the build.

 

Great build hows the 4.88s treating ya in dead set on 35s eventually. Debating 4.56 or 4.88s I do quite a bit of hwy driving an mpg is of no concern.
Just wondering about your experience?

 

The 4.88s are doing great. I'm a 4-cylider though, so they're as close to stock driveability as I can be while still being overgeared but not so overgeared that I don't want to take it on the highway. Since you have the v6, a 4.30 gear is the closest to stock and overgeared with a 35" tire. The math says you need a 4.20 gear for 35s, so the higher the gear ratio the more overgeared you will be. I have a big spreadsheet at home what I track all my maintenance stuff and mod expenses in. One of the pages is tables of different tire size/gear ratio combos showing RPM/gear/speed that I used for comparing different setups before I regeared. Basically, you need to decide how high of an RPM you're comfortable running while you're cruising down the interstate.

 

Makes sense thanks for your input I didn’t realize yours was a 4cyl I’m to enthralled with everything else. I will do some more research before it comes time to do it. I’m still trying to perfect the suspension to my liking.

 

Hahaha. Truck looks great man! Glad you were able to get all it's issues sorted out finally. Sucks you had to go through what you did to get it there. But a happy ending indeed.

 

Good deal man, definitely glad you like it. Sorry I didn't respond Friday night, phone died again and didn't get it on the charger in the truck until around 10. I've been working longer days than my phone can handle lately, and I've been to busy/tired to even think about buying a charger for the store. I let my assistant go home at closing Friday night with the agreement that I'd come in late Saturday because he couldn't stay late. So I was here from like 2:30 PM to 10:00 PM Saturday too. Apparently according to everyone else that's been with 4WP for a while, "This is March"... Who knew.

 

No worries about not responding.

We must have just missed each other on Saturday. My buddy wasn't able to make it down as early as we originally thought, so we got to the store a little after 1400. We were at the mexican place just up the road for lunch at about 1430.

 

Fairly productive day today.

I bought a new toolbox yesterday because my old one was overflowing, and I moved the excess from the old to the new.



After the movers came to see how much crap I have, I tried installing a new stereo, but I need a different dash kit to make it fit. What I need ships from China, so it may not got here before I move with their standard shipping. I'm in contact with the seller to see about faster shipping options.

Next was checking the wiring of my PLX gauges and MAP-ECU3. I got the gauge that wasn't working going and the MAP-ECU3 wiring is correct, so I must have a setting wrong that's keeping the cruise control from working. I didn't bother dragging my laptop out to check it.



Last inside bit was installing a Dakota Digital SGI-5E speedometer calibrator. I ran out daylight, so I'll work on finishing that in the morning.

 

Slow start to today, but I just finished installing and testing the speedometer calibrator. It's dead on with the GPS speed app on my phone.



I used IDC connectors for all the connections. I pulled accessory power from pin 1 (light green) of the dimmer switch. Don't use the B+ wire (cluster pin 1). It is constant power, and you need to be able to cycle power to access the calibrator's menu system. Ground and signal are on the bigger connector that plugs into the back of the cluster. Ground is pin 2 (white/black) and the speed signal is pin 6 (red/yellow).

Make the calibrator input signal connection back from the factory connector. I unwound a couple inches of tape from the factory harness to give myself plenty of room to work. Then cut the wire at the end of the IDC connector toward the factory connector and make your calibrator output connection with the end of the remaining factory wire the end of the IDC connector.

On the DD SGI-5E, the primary outputs are out1 and out2. I missed it buried in other text in the manual, but Out1 is a sine wave output and out2 is a square wave output. You want to use out2. I initially installed using out1, and the speedometer didn't work. Also, be smarter than me and use the built in reference function of the calibrator to make sure it's functioning before you go for a test drive.

 

Replaced the clamps that hold the Bestop down. The ones that it came with tilted when tightened and didn't hold well. I've been driving without the windows and the end of the rail kept pulling loose. I bought clamps like the ones that were on my old fiberglass shell.

$41 API Clamps (4 Pack) Silver Compatible with Toyota Tacoma - 2005 & Newer - Mounting Channel Track Truck Topper Cap, Camper Shell

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K2K1QG9

I also put the windows back on. I had to cut around a 1/4" off the rear window bar, so it would fit between the @KB Voodoo bed rail caps.